Recent content by cfh

the keyway is not there to secure the flywheel to the crank. it's only purpose is to make flywheel alignment easier for the human installing the flywheel. if you are getting flywheel spin, and the flywheel nut is properly torqued, then you could have a couple problems... there are two different...

that's a 1971 model (12" wheels not 10".) it's the best year for a rupp.

i'm with you on this tale. after all, we did not see him try and start the engine before the welding trick. as for contacting the video guy, i think there would be a language barrier, as his descriptions are in a foreign language. i'm having a hard time seeing how this would work. BUT i am...

wow i have questions. so he used a north/south magnet to determine the flywheel magnet poles. but why? i don't see any relevance that had in the whole process (did i miss something?) so the arc welding some how strengthens the magnets? was the wet rag just to protect the flywheel? does the...

i've heard of the speaker guys recharging magnets, but from what i remember, the effect was temporary. now i guess it depends what "temporary" means... a year or 20 years? if it's 20 years i'm good with that, i'll be dead by then!

the screwdriver test is ok but does not give enough info. really need a gauss meter. yes they are expensive. but like i said, this flywheel gets weak magnets. it will effect everything. only two magnets actually *need* to be Ok, so you get spark. but if you have two weak magnets, pretty much the...

black widow motorsports sells the correct guard and mount plate. stop buying on amazon that's just generic junk. http://blackwidowmotorsports.net/_17646_tc_cover_71_74.html

the 610769a tecumseh flywheel is notorious for weak magnets. i have one that when installed on an otherwise good HS40 engine, it just won't run right. i have a Gauss meter and the magnets definitely were too weak (using another working flywheel for comparison.) I wish i knew some way to...

front forks on rupps can seize. there's a nylon bushing inside that can swell due to moisture or rust, and lock up the front end. you can take it apart usually. sometimes you have to use some heat. but that will damage the nylon bushings (part #43 in the above diagram.) they are available new...

i tried different CDI units but it made no difference. also different flywheels. so the spark is not the issue. it's the compression that's the problem no doubt.

go to the 30 minute mark for results. bottom line, none of the fuel additives worked for greater than 6 months. some didn't even work that long. Darrel calls them all "snake oil."

additives just make you feel better, they don't actually do anything. look at the Darrel videos he did on all those fuel additives and stablizers... bottom line, none of them really do much. a better approach is just to use ethanol free gas. i'm in michigan and it's sold at a lot of gas...

those $12 carbs generally work decent. but you can get a 'bad' one (it happens a fair amount.) the castings aren't great. but if you get the high speed adjustment correct, generally they work pretty well. the high speed adjustment is at the bottom of the float bowl. get the engine warmed up...

this is true. but what i do is powder coat the "super chrome", and then spray a clear coat over the finished powder coat. if you use a powdercoat clear, it totally dulls the chrome look to a gray. with a spray clear (and it can be lacquer or a 1k spray clear), it maintains the super chrome look...

i will check out that leak tester. both engines the valves are nice inside their valve guides. pretty much perfect. as for rings, these are thin ring HS50 engines. really hard to get these rings, in any of the sizes. of course all tecumseh rings are hard to get, or any type. i'm trying to stick...