Bending/Form Fitting a New Header Pipe.....???

#1
So I've go this Puma 200 build that I'm working on and we're putting a new Predator 212 in it. I picked up a Header pipe & Muffler from Go Power Sports for it and it's supposed to exit out the rear under the seat... Well my frame isn't playing along with that plan and I'm going to have to "tweak" the header pipe a bit here and there to get it to work.

My question is can I heat the header up and gently bend it without starting to kink it? I've watched a couple of vids of this old oriental guy custom bending like 2 inch header pipe using more of a rose bud tip and heading the piping up some, but not enough to make it turn orange or anything,.. he was just keeping steady hand/pull pressure on it and seemed to be applying most of the heat on the back side of the bend...

Anyway, anybody have any experience with this?

Thanks! 20190607_213038.jpg 20190607_213049.jpg
 
#3
So I've go this Puma 200 build that I'm working on and we're putting a new Predator 212 in it. I picked up a Header pipe & Muffler from Go Power Sports for it and it's supposed to exit out the rear under the seat... Well my frame isn't playing along with that plan and I'm going to have to "tweak" the header pipe a bit here and there to get it to work.

My question is can I heat the header up and gently bend it without starting to kink it? I've watched a couple of vids of this old oriental guy custom bending like 2 inch header pipe using more of a rose bud tip and heading the piping up some, but not enough to make it turn orange or anything,.. he was just keeping steady hand/pull pressure on it and seemed to be applying most of the heat on the back side of the bend...

Anyway, anybody have any experience with this?

Thanks! View attachment 250556 View attachment 250557
There is a kind of recent thread where this was discussed in some detail with links. FOMOGO had good input and maybe a link, he’s good at that.
Basically fill with super dry sand, cap the ends and tack weld them, maintain a small vent hole, heat and bend.
 

fistfullabar

Well-Known Member
#4
can u send it back? Robertson's torque tubes makes awesome exhaust for a very good price plus custom pieces. they seem to be mini bike/ go kart guys so they might have a one for your mini already. plus made in the U.S.A.!
p.s. nice car next time Pop the hood. hope the engine looks as clean and mean as the outside!
 
#7
how off is it? , can you simply dimple to clear stuff, or will it need a major re-direct? if you can cut/ re-weld would be best/cleanest route but you'll need some 45's and 90's in the right size (s) for your pipe.

Sweet Torino as well, whats in it? I have 5 myself, one I plan to run in the pure stock drags when I get the 351cj/4 spd swapped over from my crusty base model donor car Into my 38k mile base Torino. Also have a solid 73 fastback I plan to do a correct 73 460 PI motor/c6 with lots of creature comforts, laser stripe and a few options ford never offered off a 73 t bird parts car I have. will look factory correct when done though.
 
#10
Cool way to "accidentally" get your pride and joy automobile into an unrelated photo. Look! Look at me! Look at my car!!
Haha,.. I know right!?! .. I could send it back, but honestly it's pretty close just needs tweaked in like two places I think to make the bends work with/around the frame. Was too busy working on the kids 97 F250 this weekend to mess with the mini bike,.. maybe this coming weekend.. Torino Engine.jpg
 
#11
how off is it? , can you simply dimple to clear stuff, or will it need a major re-direct? if you can cut/ re-weld would be best/cleanest route but you'll need some 45's and 90's in the right size (s) for your pipe.

Sweet Torino as well, whats in it? I have 5 myself, one I plan to run in the pure stock drags when I get the 351cj/4 spd swapped over from my crusty base model donor car Into my 38k mile base Torino. Also have a solid 73 fastback I plan to do a correct 73 460 PI motor/c6 with lots of creature comforts, laser stripe and a few options ford never offered off a 73 t bird parts car I have. will look factory correct when done though.
She's a 69 Torino GT Fastback "M" Code - 351W 10.7:1 Comp. / 4V - Bored .030, Balanced, Cam, Studded Heads with Roller tip rockers & Stainless valves w/HD Springs. Performer RPM w/ Holley 650 DP. & Dougs Stainless Ceramic coated headers...

5 !?!?!?!? I thought I had issues!! haha! Pure Stock would be fun! I'm going more street/strip in the end - installing Yukon Nodular 3rd member w/ Eaton True-Trac w/ 4:11's & 31 Spline axles, Calvert Split Mono leafs & Caltracs & Subframe connectors... - That's all going in Thanksgiving Weekend :D

Torino at Night.jpg
 
#12
VERY nice and I love them windsors myself, had a 69 m code bottom end with a set of iron gt 40 heads on it, big comp cams hyd flat, etc etc etc in a early model 70 maverick. total street car, no cage, still had the tiny 4 lug drum brakes in the front, bench seat, column shift, steel wheels, hub caps and ran 10.80's with a little shot of the giggle juice lol now I just want to mid 14's to mid 13's and call it a day. you have a very sharp ride man, I dig it.
 
#14
VERY nice and I love them windsors myself, had a 69 m code bottom end with a set of iron gt 40 heads on it, big comp cams hyd flat, etc etc etc in a early model 70 maverick. total street car, no cage, still had the tiny 4 lug drum brakes in the front, bench seat, column shift, steel wheels, hub caps and ran 10.80's with a little shot of the giggle juice lol now I just want to mid 14's to mid 13's and call it a day. you have a very sharp ride man, I dig it.
Yeah I bet that thing ran like a scalded dog!!! That's sort of my plan with this one - This coming spring (or sooner if I sell my street bike) is to buy the Edelbrock Top end kit ( #2090 ) $3800.00,.. which is 460 hp on a stock 9.0:1 compression motor - so upwards around 500+ HP @ 10.7:1 .. , plus I have an 89 AOD trans I'm having built so I have OD. My goal is to be in the 11's with sticky tires :D ... we'll see!
 
#17
Here is a trick to help. You can make a die to bend it around if you have a little wood working skill. Shape a piece of 2 x 8 to the bend radius that you need then screw a piece of 1/2'' plywood on each side very tightly. You may have to take a piece of 1/4'' or 3/8'' cut to size and shape to fit on the inside so that the pipe will fit tightly. Clamp it in a good vice try bending it cold. If it fits snuggly then you should be able to bend it enough to do what you need. If it doesn't want to cooperate then you can resort to heating it and bending it again. Quick and simple. Just be patient, Show us the setup you make and how the bend come out. Wont even need to pack it with sand this way as the side will support the pipe as long as they are tight against 3 sides of the pipe.
 
#18
Love that this forum has a bunch of old school muscle-car guys.
For minor adjustments, filling with sand is not needed imo. There was a great video from Engine Master on the effects of dimpling headers and the long and short of it was that there was no flow loss, even from severely crushed header tubes.
Beautiful Torino btw!
 

Fourtogo

Well-Known Member
#19
I have seen old timers pack a pipe with sand and heat it to bend it without kinking it.
I have done this type bending . Very dry sand is a must vent hole in tube is also a must . I saw a video from Japan, of a master exhaust system builder . Bending tube for a street bike using a rose bud tip . Very awsome video .
 
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