The Ultimate Off Road Bonanza Build Returns

delray

Well-Known Member
I just noticed that you are running a green spring in your driven unit, what hole are you using with that?
i have run the green comet spring in the pass on a drag bike(stock location hole) and just killed the spring and change it out to a red spring from a china unit and had no problems yet!
maybe also the green spring could of been just bad from the get go? and other greens are just fine?
 
i have run the green comet spring in the pass on a drag bike(stock location hole) and just killed the spring and change it out to a red spring from a china unit and had no problems yet!
maybe also the green spring could of been just bad from the get go? and other greens are just fine?
Funny you guys are on this subject as I just got done changing my red spring out to the yellow one. PART#216168A its on my CT200U that I just installed the Juggernaut. Anyway its a bigger beefier spring, haven't tried it yet but I will report back when I have.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
also you could control the wheeling with the driver unit? I would hook a tach up to the engine and apply the front brake or run the bike up againt fix wall and then slowly accelerate the gas and watch when the driver engage/rpm. for example if it engage at 3000? drop the the engagement about 400-500 rpms. lets say 2500. with the engagement being lowered down the engine hopefully won't have much power being produced at that point of engagement. allowing it to take off without bad wheeling going on. good thing now you can also may allow you to gear the bike better to a 72-80 sprocket. making the rpm's climb up faster to your top rpm....7000+ on the trails. changing gears can also impact how the bike can wheeling too.
 
I know I still have a lot of tuning to do I have the green spring in hole 3 I will mess with the different hole positions and gearing. I need to put a bigger sprocket on my jackshaft to gain a little more clearance on the swing arm so I will be going for at least a 60 tooth sprocket in the rear
 
The juggernaut has no overdrive. The spring gives more torque by keeping the driven unit closer for longer
Yes! You described just what the yellow spring does. If you give it the coals it will upshift but as soon as you let off the gas it brings you back in low gear and it works good with the Juggernaut, gives your bike good outa the hole torque with that combo. Im using the 6" and I had it in the third hole.
 
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Yes! You described just what the yellow spring does. If you give it the coals it will upshift but as soon as you let off the gas it brings you back in low gear and it works good with the Juggernaut, gives your bike good outa the hole torque with that combo. Im using the 6" and I had it in the third hole.
The juggernaut has no overdrive. The spring gives more torque by keeping the driven unit closer for longer
Thank you Bryan and Rocco for the explanation!!!!
 
Got the yellow driven spring today and installed it in the 3rd hole. Has really good torque now. Still a little sluggish through the midrange speeds but I’m almost 100% certain that has to do with my final gearing. I have a 66 tooth rear sprocket on the way as well as a few different jackshaft gears so I can get it tuned to where I want
 

delray

Well-Known Member
looking good bryan. how do you like the rear spring setup. it should work good for your application....:scooter: also is that a internal gas shock with 50/50
any luck with a larger rear sprocket yet?
 
looking good bryan. how do you like the rear spring setup. it should work good for your application....:scooter: also is that a internal gas shock with 50/50
any luck with a larger rear sprocket yet?
I just changed out my sprocket today. I was running a 54 tooth 420 chain now I’m at 66 teeth. My jackshaft gear is a 10 tooth. Noticed a big difference. I might even go to a 11 tooth on the jackshaft as the wheelies are almost uncontrollable and a little more top end would be nice. As for the shock it’s just a cheap oil charged shock. It actually works really well I’m thinking of running it we will see how it holds up to more testing
 
I also noticed another weak park in my bike. The sprocket hub is now flexing due to the larger sprocket. It’s just one of the cheap Azusa ones so I’m looking for someone that can machine me a custom sprocket hub out of some billet aluminum that should solve the problem
 

delray

Well-Known Member
also you could control the wheeling with the driver unit? I would hook a tach up to the engine and apply the front brake or run the bike up againt fix wall and then slowly accelerate the gas and watch when the driver engage/rpm. for example if it engage at 3000? drop the the engagement about 400-500 rpms. lets say 2500. with the engagement being lowered down the engine hopefully won't have much power being produced at that point of engagement. allowing it to take off without bad wheeling going on. good thing now you can also may allow you to gear the bike better to a 72-80 sprocket. making the rpm's climb up faster to your top rpm....7000+ on the trails. changing gears can also impact how the bike can wheeling too.
bryan the 72 -80 sprocket was base on a 35 chain, but I see you are running a 40/41 chain so a 60tt or little more might just work....:scooter:
 
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