Bolting forks to frame; just a nut and bolt?
- Thread starter Japspec
- Start date
Well if the bolt measures .625 and the tube measures .625 and less then that will be a problem.
Without knowing your tool and capability situation I will offer the following options. These options are definitely not all equal in how good they are.
Run a 5/8 drill down through the tube (not my favorite idea)
Find a bolt from another supplier than has a smaller diameter (although you won't find one as small as .608)
Make your own bolt from round stock ( same problem as above)
Have a machine shop make you a custom bolt
And my favorite....cut that tube off and weld a proper piece of DOM on. 7/8" x .120 wall.
Without knowing your tool and capability situation I will offer the following options. These options are definitely not all equal in how good they are.
Run a 5/8 drill down through the tube (not my favorite idea)
Find a bolt from another supplier than has a smaller diameter (although you won't find one as small as .608)
Make your own bolt from round stock ( same problem as above)
Have a machine shop make you a custom bolt
And my favorite....cut that tube off and weld a proper piece of DOM on. 7/8" x .120 wall.
Thanks! I'm not a welder by any means, so something structural like that I would likely get welded from a shop somewhere. If that is honestly the best option, then maybe that is the way I will go. Looks like this is the tubing for the job then:
https://www.speedymetals.com/p-3439-78-od-x-120-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx
I do also have a 9/16" bolt sitting around that fits, but isn't long enough to go all the way through.
https://www.speedymetals.com/p-3439-78-od-x-120-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx
I do also have a 9/16" bolt sitting around that fits, but isn't long enough to go all the way through.
![IMG_0983[1].JPG](/forum/data/attachments/207/207400-01fc8fc3a7dcbc4fdb70bc0ad0e04ffa.jpg)
Thanks! That sounds like a bit of a pain when it comes to wear, seems like that can become dangerous over time.
That is probably a good idea. Would I need to just find some tubing with a .75 I.D. so that those bushings can fit right into the tube? I'm guessing something like this:
https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3455-8242-1-14-od-x-250-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx
Honestly don't know if the O.D. and wall size of that tubing is too much though when compared to the 7/8 x .120 suggested before.
Ah, I just saw this as soon as I was going to post! So you would recommend something like I linked above to desert rat so I can run the bushings?
That is probably a good idea. Would I need to just find some tubing with a .75 I.D. so that those bushings can fit right into the tube? I'm guessing something like this:
https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3455-8242-1-14-od-x-250-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx
Honestly don't know if the O.D. and wall size of that tubing is too much though when compared to the 7/8 x .120 suggested before.
Ah, I just saw this as soon as I was going to post! So you would recommend something like I linked above to desert rat so I can run the bushings?
I definitely support using bushings. It allows for normal wear, but puts that wear on the replaceable bushings not the steel. As far as the size, just go see your local supplier if you have one. Tell em you need some thick wall DOM that gives you an I.D. of the bushing size you choose. I suggested the size I did because that's what I use, and it works well. It leaves me with an I.D. of .635. I use a cold chisel to create "dents" along the inside circumference of the tube to both make up the .010 clearance and to give little spikes to bite the bushing and keeping from turning in the tube. This way the bolt is turning in the bushings and not the bushing turning in the tube. (I hope I explained that well enough) use whatever size you are happy with, there are plenty of size combinations. The bike I'm building now is 7/8 tube frame and the head tube is 1-1/2" to accommodate a 1-3/8" flange bearing. Just make sure your welder appreciates the strength needed in that joint.
Sooooooo what I have done is to make 4 "washers" with 1/2" holes. 1/8"-3/16" material is fine I normally use 1/8". These washers get centered and welded to the triple clamps where the existing 5/8" holes are, 1 washer above and one below on each triple clamp. Then I use bronze flange bearings with 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD with a flange OD to match the steering head tube, commonly 7/8". You will need to shorten the existing head tube by 2x the washer thickness and 2x the bearing flange thickness. Be sure to remove material on the top and bottom of the head tube to ensure the front end stays the same height. Then a 1/2" bolt can be used.
A side note about this bolt, as well as axle bolts when the axle hangs on a simple flat bar tab, be sure to use a bolt with the appropriate length of smooth shank so that the threads are not riding in the metal flange of the axle hanger or the triple clamps. If the threads ride against the metal flange it can and will wear much faster. It will wear both the axle and hanger or triple clamp in this case. For this reason, I make my own axles and head bolts, although I understand not everyone has the means.
I will try to find something pics to illustrate the setup.
A side note about this bolt, as well as axle bolts when the axle hangs on a simple flat bar tab, be sure to use a bolt with the appropriate length of smooth shank so that the threads are not riding in the metal flange of the axle hanger or the triple clamps. If the threads ride against the metal flange it can and will wear much faster. It will wear both the axle and hanger or triple clamp in this case. For this reason, I make my own axles and head bolts, although I understand not everyone has the means.
I will try to find something pics to illustrate the setup.