Heavy duty bearings???

#1
Hi all,
been doing some serious riding on my Brooks trail bike.

Don't know if it is the weight of the machine, the roughness of the terrain or the speed (probably not the speed, as the bike only goes 32 mph and has 18" tires), but the Azusa bearings just don't seem to be able to handle the bike. Went through both rear bearings within the first hr or 2 of riding. Of course, when one bearing goes, the whole axle starts to twist and wobble which probably caused the second bearing to fail.

Anyone know of, or had a good experience with another brand or style of bearing? These are the 5/8 ID 1&3/8 OD standard sized bearings.

I actually have the bearings from an old wheel barrow in there now, as local parts stores don't carry the right size, and I was too impatient to stop riding until I ordered and received better bearings.... Oddly, the wheel barrow bearings have lasted much longer than the Azusa ones did:laugh:

Also, I ordered the Azusa bearings with the snap-rings, because the bike had bearings with snap-rings on it when I got it, but does anyone know if THESE bearings are stronger than the ones with the snap rings? Also, is there a lip on the outside ring to prevent the bearing from sliding too deep into the wheel?

As always, thanks for any help.
 
#5
I was wondering the same thing as Turftech, if the bearings without the flange will work there way into the rim. I got the bearings from ombw and they dont have the flange, the ones I pulled out of my wheels did though. Thanks for the links posted, thats a big help.
 
#6
If there is no internal "shoulder" or "lip" in the wheel hub to retain the bearings and keep them from being pushed further into the wheel you need a FLANGED bearing, as in the links posted.:wink:
 
#7
Thats kinda what i thought. They are the 1 piece wheels that old harrisons used. That is 1 of the reasons i havent worked on the mini in a while, still needs a few parts but lack of funds has put them on hold until the new year.
 
#8
Try BMI bearing p/n 600630, I haven't worn out a set of them yet and mine are over 5 years old. I have them on everything I and the granchildren ride. At 2 dollars each they are a bargain.
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#11
Things are either too tight or he doesn't have somethin lined up. Something is torquing on the bearings. Those should not wear out that quick.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#12
Hi all,
been doing some serious riding on my Brooks trail bike.

Don't know if it is the weight of the machine, the roughness of the terrain or the speed (probably not the speed, as the bike only goes 32 mph and has 18" tires), but the Azusa bearings just don't seem to be able to handle the bike. Went through both rear bearings within the first hr or 2 of riding. Of course, when one bearing goes, the whole axle starts to twist and wobble which probably caused the second bearing to fail.

Anyone know of, or had a good experience with another brand or style of bearing? These are the 5/8 ID 1&3/8 OD standard sized bearings.

I actually have the bearings from an old wheel barrow in there now, as local parts stores don't carry the right size, and I was too impatient to stop riding until I ordered and received better bearings.... Oddly, the wheel barrow bearings have lasted much longer than the Azusa ones did:laugh:

Also, I ordered the Azusa bearings with the snap-rings, because the bike had bearings with snap-rings on it when I got it, but does anyone know if THESE bearings are stronger than the ones with the snap rings? Also, is there a lip on the outside ring to prevent the bearing from sliding too deep into the wheel?

As always, thanks for any help.
Here is my two cents. Never had any problem with the regular bearings that are sold by everyone that has anything to do with minibikes. I have to say that if you went through the first pair in a couple of hours the problem is almost certainly not the quality of the bearings. IF there is side load on the bearings, for instance, due to there not being a spacer inside the hub to prevent the tightened axle nut from pushing the inner races inward that might be a more fruitful area to look at than looking for higher quality bearings. There are basically only two types of the 5/8" ID X 1-3/8 OD flanged bearings. The super cheap wheelbarrow variety that are easily recognizable because you can see the balls because there are no seals on ether the right of left side. If they have a snap ring and grease seals on both sides that is the best you can get unless you wish to get aircraft stuff or maybe something NASA cooked up. That is how I see it.
 
#13
Hmmmm,
It's possible that the axle was over torqued the first time. I don't know. Seems like it has no more or less torque than now. I wonder if I just got a bad bearing, or if I damaged them. I installed them once during mock-up, popped them out for painting, then re-installed them, but they tapped right out, didn't even use a hammer, just tapped them from the inside with the axle end.

So far I have put several hrs of hard riding on the wheel barrow bearings, and have not had any issues. Have not had issues with the front axle either, which has the Azusa bearings.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#14
Hmmmm,
It's possible that the axle was over torqued the first time. I don't know. Seems like it has no more or less torque than now. I wonder if I just got a bad bearing, or if I damaged them. I installed them once during mock-up, popped them out for painting, then re-installed them, but they tapped right out, didn't even use a hammer, just tapped them from the inside with the axle end.

So far I have put several hrs of hard riding on the wheel barrow bearings, and have not had any issues. Have not had issues with the front axle either, which has the Azusa bearings.
It is really, in my mind, not a matter of 'over torquing' the axle nut. The tightening of the nut should not push the inner races of the bearings toward each other because there is no spacer on the axle to prevent that. I really believe you do not have the required spacer between the two inner races. I kinda think you 'preloaded' the bearings beyond which they were never designed take. As a rule of thumb when making a selection of ball bearings [of that general design] it is considered OK to assume that the bearing will be OK if subjected to approximately 1/3 the axial loading that they are rated for radially. It is of course best to not have them subjected to any unnecessary side load. In this case the 'normally' expected side load would be when the bike is being cornered...there is bound to be some side thrust. To add to that the smashing effect of the tightened axle nut would be, I am certain, looking for early failure.
 
#16
Yes, thank you OldSalt. This was exactly the problem. I just need to add a spacer to keep pressure off the inner races. I will cut a sleeve of 5/8 ID and slide it over the axle between the bearings.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#17
Yes, thank you OldSalt. This was exactly the problem. I just need to add a spacer to keep pressure off the inner races. I will cut a sleeve of 5/8 ID and slide it over the axle between the bearings.
Tube off a bicycle handle bars will work fine. It is of course a bit of a hassle to get a measurement between the two inner races when they are inserted into the hub.
 
#18
Industrial bearing supliers have what you need.

Sometimes for the same price as a no name brnad Chinese you can get a good FAG or SKF.

WHere high speed is concern us a C3 clearence and always buy a 2RS or double lip seal type for wheels and jack shafts where tye can get exposed to dust and mud.

Nothing wormg with Chinese bearing but they lack the kind of quality control of high end bearings.


Sometimes the heat treating is a bit off, other times the alloys have tramp metals, in very rare cases the grinding and machining is a little off.

They still work but its like comparing a Clone to a Honda.
 
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