Recent content by bwt

For anyone who's interested, I have used a 1 1/16 ID x 1 5/16 OD x 3/16 thick modified oilite bushing (oilite part # AA-1307-2) in between the driver sheaves to prevent the driver from forcing the belt above the outside radius of the sheaves. I locate this bushing up against the stationary...

I knew what the problem was as soon as you said that you looked down and the belt was riding out above the top of the driver sheaves. When that happens, the sides of the "teeth" of the belt are riding on the rounded edges of the sheaves. This will destroy any belt in a short time and produce the...

I appreciate your replies, but the question remains: Can this bike be made street legal? It appears to have a plate mounted on the frame showing the model number and a 3 or 4 digit serial number, but no VIN number. Can the serial number be used in place of a VIN number when registering the bike?

The history on this bike shows it was built for college students to ride to campuses in the early sixties. Was it street legal then? I have an opportunity to buy one of these, but I would only buy it if I new I could title it and drive it on the street.

I need to replace the crank seal on the flywheel side. I don't mind having to remove the flywheel, but I would like to remove the old seal and put in the new one without removing the crankshaft. Is there a good way to do this?

Here is my bike. Blue Clone modded to around 12 hp, Torque Converter with aluminum driver weights and 3300 rpm stall springs, powder coated frame, front and rear disk brakes (hydro rear brake), front headlight with rear taillight and brakelight, 12 volt 8 amp hour battery, custom aluminum...

Strigoi, Whatever happened to your 12 hp clone?

Thanks everyone for the advice. As for a tav2 30 turning 6000 rpm, it's not a problem if you leave the driven spring in position 1 as this reduces heat and friction on the belt. I also run 3300 stall springs on the driver for improved off the line performance and downshifting.

What valve train setup would you suggest? The engine only sees 6000 grand for short intervals. I would like more torque in the 3000 to 5000 rpm range.

Oldschool, The engine currently has billet components, governor removed, 22cc head milled .060, 18 lb springs, stock piston and valves, agk265 cam, uni air filter and adapter, 1 inch header with rlv silencer, and stock carb with .090 jet and 140 emulsion tube. Even with that small carb, there...

The AGK has more duration with .265 lift; the stock cam has less duration but around .290 lift with the 1.3 rockers. Using the same .625 bored carb, which setup makes more power?

Just a few additional comments. With a 70/13 sprocket combination like you are running, your final drive ratio is 5.38:1. With a 12 tooth on the tav30 and a 70 tooth rear sprocket, my final drive ratio is 70/12 times .9 overdrive, or 5.25:1. So my final drive ratio is already taller than yours...

The thing about torque converters that a lot of people don't realize is that while they are smooth and provide great off the line performance, they also use up more horsepower due to belt friction and the force required to overcome the spring in the driven unit. For example, I have a db30 with...

The part number is 202931A. I have tried all the distributors and they are all out of stock. I talked to Don Jackson, the Comet engineer at CPC, and he said it may be a while before they resume production of the aluminum weights. If anyone has a set for sale, I would be interested in buying it.

On the spec sheet that comes with the engine, it lists the compression ratio as 8.5 to 1. Has anyone ever verified this?