New build. Hasnt been run yet except after new carb. New air intake. New throttle and rear brake cable. New torque converter. New jackshaft. New shaft sprocket. 41 chain. No pegs, kickstand. Seat has small tear in seam. New tank. Seat needs adjusted for tank.
Bigger than my kids can handle. I...
Newer build. Replaced jackshaft. Brake on left side. sprocket on right. new tubes with newer tires. new tank. Still needs rear brake cable. $500 or best offer.
Front bracket appears to be 5/16". Rear threaded on brake arm appears to be #12x24. 56" cable. Clark cyclone.
Is there a close match to original brake cable available?
I'm thinking of running a wider tubing underneath for footpegs but I am not to happy
with how wide she's turning out. A centrifugal clutch would have saved me a little bit.
I need a 41 pitch 12 tooth 5/8id sprocket and chain, too.
Turning out wide. I bought frame and engine together. Replaced carb on engine. Replaced air box with aftermarket air filter. Rear brake pin was booger welded on right side. Relocated back to left side with 7018. Bearing flange was cut into. Corrected cut with 6014 rod. Removed some booger welded...
I took the rupp bracket and welded it on inside of frame. On both front and rear face. Then I cut rear wing off. Now I have original bracket on outside supporting swingarm and new bracket on inside supporting bearing. I still have an inch or so for sprocket. Not factory look but it is a clark...
Minibike looks a lot like a rupp. The right jackshaft bracket was cut back. The closest part I could find with swingarm hole on one side and bearing hole was a rupp. It's too small. Clark bracket is much bigger.
Now I am looking for correct bracket or maybe using round type on this site to weld...
Most of images that I am seeing show torque converters with fixed pulley edge inboard. I would like to do that, using rupp style jackshaft brackets, which are 8" apart on inside. No backplate.
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