Recent content by SVTKen

The alignment with the jackshaft was close, unfortunately I didn’t snap a pic of it before I removed it. The back wheels are offset in the frame roughly 1/2” with more clearance on the sprocket side. The back wheel and the motor plate are parallel to each other. The riser isn’t distorted and...

I did quite a bit of checking and everything points to the difference in the offset of the drive sprocket on the TAV backing plate versus the jackshaft backing plate. It would be interesting to have a few others check the sprocket offset on jackshaft backing plates ….especially ones that are a...

Just out of curiosity measure the sprocket offset on your original gear reduction plate. I’m measuring from the back of the plate to the inside of the sprocket and it’s 7/8” versus the Comet TAV which is 1/2”. I bet there are a lot of people with alignment issues if they just trusted that...

I like the idea and the adjustability but the plates are 1/2” thick and I’m pretty sure you need to raise the motor 1” for the TAV installation.

I’m kinda leaning toward drilling the riv-nuts out of the top plate of the riser. Then when the alignment is set I can adjust the chain tension without having to mess with the offset. Not sure if I’d weld and redrill the holes or just use fender washers as you suggested, guess it will depend...

The riser plate is pretty close, but it should have slotted holes on the top to allow for the difference between the stock Coleman sprocket location and the Comet sprocket location. It would be an easy fix if the riser didn’t have the pressed in riv-nuts.

First off the motor riser pretty much just raises the motor without any appreciable side to side movement. I did some measuring and included a scale in the photos for reference. It seems that the factory sprocket on the Coleman bike is 7/8” offset from the motor side of the the plate. The...

That’s something that I initially gave some thought to but it would cause other issues. The shaft on the driven sheave isn’t long enough to allow for shimming the sprocket over. The other option would be to make a shim plate to go between the motor and TAV backing plate. But in both cases it...

I’m going to take some measurements and see if I can find what’s causing the misalignment, I’ll post what I find. Just curious what frame issues you had, I returned the first one that I bought due to a bad welding job.

I would but they are all ready slotted lengthwise for chain adjustment. I could widen the slots, I’ll add that to my options list.

I added a Comet TAV2 to a Coleman CT200 EX and used the OldMiniBikes Warehouse Riser Plate. I mocked it up to check the sprocket alignment and they are off by 3/16”. (I used an adjustable bar for snowmobile clutches to check the alignment and I confirmed that it was straight.) What is the preferred...

I’ll make one change at a time on the carb and see what the results are. I’ve done a bit of carb tuning over the years and have learned to make small changes and test the results. At some point I may look for a pipe that is an actual D-port so it will better match the head, definitely want one...

Snow is upon use in the North so tuning will have to wait for nicer weather. My plan will be to have a larger pilot jet on-hand and I’ll start with the main and go from there. I already have an assortment of mains. Interesting info on the muffler, is it off a Predator 224?

Excellent information, I’m just above sea level (150’). Are you running a Tillotson 212? Based on your results I’m going to grab a .020 pilot the next time I place an order.

I put an OldMiniBikes Warehouse Stage-2 Kit with a Comet Torque Converter on a Coleman CT200U-EX. The kit comes with a Non-EPA carb and a .037 main jet. It’s my understanding that the stock jetting is a .028 main and a .016 low speed. I did some searching and I don’t see a lot of info on carb tuning...