Mini Rokon - A 2x2 Azusa Build

#1
Hi everyone, just starting a new project and figured I would start a thread on it.

I acquired a brand new, complete Azusa 8" wheel mini bike kit on craigslist for a steal. It also came with a new 6.5hp Dupor clone engine and a Comet torque converter. The engine has some performance parts with it also; a cam, valve springs, big carb, etc. I guess I will install the performance parts??? I know almost nothing about modding clone engines.





The plan is to build a 2x2 mini bike as if Azusa were selling a complete 2x2 kit. My last 2x2 definately looks homemade. I want this one to look stock and professional. I still need to order a couple 5/8" jack shaft kits and a few other things from OldMiniBikes, but I have the two hard to find parts already...... the steering u-joint and overrunning coupler. I am using much smaller/lighter parts on this one. I found a tiny 5/8" bore u-joint that still uses needle bearings, and I'm using a Proto brand 1/2" drive ratchet adapter as an overruning coupler. I plan on grinding one side of the ratchet mechanism off, so with the twist of a collar on the rear jackshaft I can switch between one and two wheel drive. (Key in pic for size reference)





I'm using 480x400-8 Oregon tiller tires and a rectangular fuel tank from an old Kohler Generator. I can't decide if I should run a front drum brake just like the rear or if it would be unneccesary?

 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#2
Cool build.

You see we have a little gathering of about a 100 bikes coming up down her in September?
Come on down.
 
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#4
Very cool youre last build was incredible im sure this one will be too. Its no easy feat making things simple and factory looking on a bike like this
 
#6
I would love to make it to Mini Bike Mania, but I recently moved to Washington state near Portland.... know of any rides around here?


I have a question for yall. On a TAV2 torque converter, can the 4 mounting holes where it bolts to the engine be elongated so I can clock torque converter more level for frame clearance? Has anyone done something similar?
 
#8
My main concern is the tc backing plate moving or twisting on the engine because the spacing of the holes will leave a gap on either side of the mounting bolts.
 
#10
My main concern is the tc backing plate moving or twisting on the engine because the spacing of the holes will leave a gap on either side of the mounting bolts.
just weld on a little bracket with nut welded to it and a bolt you can put a little tension on the clocking of the TAV to make sure it doesnt twist around the crankshaft.. like a motor tensioner bolt
 
#12
I decided to go with a front drum brake just like the rear. The extra support on the tav is an excellent idea.


The neck is tacked up and the jackshaft design is hashed out. The rebar is just for mock up.






Please excuse the mess.




This is the tank I have to use. I just threw it up there for the pic, but I might try and make it fit sideways inside the frame above the rear tire. Opinions?



 
#13
Steadily making progress.

Here is the setup for making sure the u-joint is centered on the steering axis.






Rear jackshaft mocked up with the selectable ratchet/freewheel sprocket.



 
#15
I have been trying to decide on a paint scheme. I know I want it to be a bright color with satin black wheels. I basically have it narrowed down to a bright yellow/orange papaya color, kawasaki green, or red. I will probably put a name on the tank and maybe even a small logo or design. I'm thinking something like "Swamp Thang" with the green, or "Mud Bug" in red with a little crawfish stenciled on.

Any ideas? Can anyone think of some other cool paint/name ideas for a 2wd mini bike?
 
#16
Awesome build. Your fat tire 2x2 was off the charts.:thumbsup:
With those tires you could call it "It goes anywhere.."
So, with your ratchet adapter you can select 2x2 or rwd?
 
#17
Thanks. I've been putting a ton of street miles on the big 2x2 and it has been surprisingly reliable.

That's right, twist the collar one way for freewheel rwd, the other way for ratcheting 2wd. If it holds up it will be a decent system, but it is kind of dangerous to manipulate the collar right next to the sprocket..... still working on that, ha.
 
#18
Thanks. I've been putting a ton of street miles on the big 2x2 and it has been surprisingly reliable.

That's right, twist the collar one way for freewheel rwd, the other way for ratcheting 2wd. If it holds up it will be a decent system, but it is kind of dangerous to manipulate the collar right next to the sprocket..... still working on that, ha.
You'll probably be in 2wd most of the time anyway.. :smile: Its a neat option to have. Proto stuff is guaranteed for life isn't it? :wink:
"Uh, yeah, my ratchet adapter wore out again.."
 
#19
Yea, probably won't be switching very often and as long as it's completely stopped it should be relatively safe. The ratchet is no doubt out of its design parameters, but if it can take the torque it should last fairly long because it only spins on itself the difference in speed between the front and rear and I packed it with grease.
 
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