Tecumseh H50 Stroker

OND

OND

#61
#61
Rainy here today ….If you can Imagine that ! :laugh: Plus a bit on the chilly side . So its off to the shop for me , hopefully going to get something done on this H50 .




Not really going crazy on the porting , just knocking out some of the ruff stuff .





Got in a few parts to hopefully get this build moving .



New block/crankshaft seal installed .



Block cleaned , honed and all threaded holes were chased .



H60 crankshaft has been turned down to.998 and the rod journal opened up the width to .970 to accommodate the Clements billet rod .




New stock rings .



Ring gap checked and with in specs.







Side cover looks super strong in all areas .

 
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OND

OND

#70
#70
Little progress ! :grind::hammer: Ended up buying a flywheel with a starter ring on it , got the flywheel and head blasted and cleaned .



Magneto got cleaned up and mounted , points installed and gapped . Hope to get the timing set next weekend .



Also I've decide to put Briggs valves in this engine , got the new valve guides in this week . Briggs 1.160 SS valves and after market springs , retainers and locks .
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#76
#76
ond, are the briggs ss valves the same length as the H-block motors?

just to give you heads up, I never played around with the H -blocks yet and I got a Gilson frame just itching for one.
 
OND

OND

#77
#77
delray if my measurements are correct I might be .060 short from valves to lifters . I haven't found any valves that would be exactly correct yet.
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#78
#78
OND said:
delray if my measurements are correct I might be .060 short from valves to lifters . I haven't found any valves that would be exactly correct yet.
Click to expand...
that's no good. couple different things you can maybe look into. first see if you can find a longer lifter. maybe out of a briggs? and then grind the lifter down to fit. but you must grind it correct or your clearance will not be consistent. (uneven)
I wish I could get you a part number for these motorsport lifters...…….I believe they are extra long.


other problem now I also see is maybe the spring height if the valve is short. good possibility the height for the lock retainer is shorter. also see you posted set of briggs dyno retainers/keepers/guides/dual springs that look to be about 32-36 pounds.
you posted earlier about your cam lift being 268/272. if that is correct you want to go with a single spring. they make a clone 26 pound white strip that might just work. first your going to have to figure out if you can still use the briggs ss valves with a correct lifter and then see where your spring height is? also you might be able to recut your retainer/keeper groove little higher up. allowing you to have the spring height if indeed your little short still for spring height. if your spring height clearances are real short you might be able to just use a 20 pound animal spring and with a softer spring you will have a less chance of chewing up the stock cam. 20 pound is little soft for that kind of lift,but you also not going to spin the motor higher then 4500-4700+ rpm's with a stock cam and at that rpm's you will never float the valves. so maybe softer is better if there is no coil bind? just ton of little things that can create problems when you start to use different parts. most of the time there is a way around it all to fix it.. eric, I wish I was closer to building a H-motor. I could maybe save you on a lot of homework.....
 
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Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#79
#79
Re Delray's comments--the big block lifter is massive in diameter (more than 0.34)--and is the same through the HM100. HM80 lifters may be long enough to be cut down, though the stroke would indicate otherwise. NOS H60 valves in can be found for about $10 each on eBay, if that becomes necessary
 
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