Interesting wear on Centrifugal clutch plates/weights

Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#1
#1
i had to replace my CC due to a lost plate/weight.
I took the new clutch apart after 8 hours of riding to lube the bushing with Never-seize Nickle and noticed the weights/plates are only wearing on the outer edge towards the open end of the clutch drum. Is this normal? do these weights have to seat and wear down themselves to the drum?
Or, just Chinese crap?
The clutch did slip on one very steep hill from a dead stop and you could smell it get very hot. Otherwise it was normal and engaged instantly from a dead stop to max speed.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#2
#2
Yes, they only wear on a portion of the shoe. Go to this post, and look at the video. At 1:30 in to it, Jim speaks to that. They will slip on steep hills, especially with some weight. According to Jim, if you get grease or oil on the shoes or the drum, it's there forever, and it will slip forever.
 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#3
#3
Thank you for the info and link.
I've done a search at several places for which RPM Clutch spring ( Yellow,Green,Blue,Black) to use with no real info.
What spring would be the best for fuel economy and higher RPM engagement for more torque.
Some here swear the Green spring is the way to go, others say cut loops off the original spring.
It is confusing.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#4
#4
I've already advocated the green spring several times. Do not cut the spring.

The stiffer springs only increase the RPM required to make shoe engagement. They do not affect fuel economy once the clutch is engaged.

Engagement: RPM
Stock Silver Spring: 2200
Green Spring :2500
Black Spring :3100
 
S

SAT

#5
#5
Havasu Dave said:
I've already advocated the green spring several times. Do not cut the spring.

The stiffer springs only increase the RPM required to make shoe engagement. They do not affect fuel economy once the clutch is engaged.

Engagement: RPM
Stock Silver Spring: 2200
Green Spring :2500
Black Spring :3100
Click to expand...
Plus one on what Jim sez, one drop of 30 wt. every hour while warm. Oil lite bushings like SAE oil lubricants. Sometimes I use the La-co brand oilers with the cute extension tube. No silicone additives in it, and close to 3 in 1 oil for viscosity.
And the green spring across the board. It works for all ages and power plants. No runaways with the throttle up a bit to keep it runnin.
I don’t know about any clutches other than Jim’s.
Good luck, hope this helps.
 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#6
#6
I was finely able to order the Green spring.
Decades ago I found that using Never-Sieze Pure Nickle 2,600 degree F lube was the way to go. You can run for at least 10 hours with the bushing never even slightly trying to bind-up. It has a very high cling value and has never contaminated the clutch shoes nor drum.
I tried the oil,both synthetic and standard type out here in the desert and they will break down in as short as two hours of hard riding and start to "sing' or even stall the engine. It is very dusty here.
The other inconvenience was the oil bottle leaking. I start a 6,000 feet ASL and go as high as 12,000 feet ASL and the bottle would leak even in a Zip-Loc bag and leak all over the place.
The Never -seize uses an oil carrier for the nickle and have never "clogged" the Oil-Lite bushing when I clean its surface. It almost looks to be chrome plated after a hard,hot run in the mountains. The bushing will freely spin on it's own on the drive shaft.
Yes I have to take the clutch apart to re-lube,but I do that anyway to clean the shoes and drum due to the dust,so I really don't mind.
Please don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to start an argument, It is just what I found out really works for me while riding for long distances under heavy loads.
 
S

SAT

#7
#7
Rapidrob said:
I was finely able to order the Green spring.
Decades ago I found that using Never-Sieze Pure Nickle 2,600 degree F lube was the way to go. You can run for at least 10 hours with the bushing never even slightly trying to bind-up. It has a very high cling value and has never contaminated the clutch shoes nor drum.
I tried the oil,both synthetic and standard type out here in the desert and they will break down in as short as two hours of hard riding and start to "sing' or even stall the engine. It is very dusty here.
The other inconvenience was the oil bottle leaking. I start a 6,000 feet ASL and go as high as 12,000 feet ASL and the bottle would leak even in a Zip-Loc bag and leak all over the place.
The Never -seize uses an oil carrier for the nickle and have never "clogged" the Oil-Lite bushing when I clean its surface. It almost looks to be chrome plated after a hard,hot run in the mountains. The bushing will freely spin on it's own on the drive shaft.
Yes I have to take the clutch apart to re-lube,but I do that anyway to clean the shoes and drum due to the dust,so I really don't mind.
Please don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to start an argument, It is just what I found out really works for me while riding for long distances under heavy loads.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I will look into Never-seez, is that the correct name? Blue can, 8oz, 24 bucks?
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#8
#8
Well, there is something to be said for having decades of experience with Max Torque clutches running on oil impregnated bronze bushings and not having to come and ask questions on the internet. Not to start an argument or anything. :p

If I rode like you did, I'd get a torque converter and mount it. Hills and varying throttle positions kill these clutches.

If you want to keep your clutch and use whatever magic grease you just mentioned above, here is a nice addition to your clutch called a zerkbolt. Go Kart Supply advertises it as only available from Max Torque, but I have not seen it on their websites, or heard Jim speak of it. Easy to fabricate.

It looks like a solid addition to me. Scroll Down, and I'm out.

https://www.gokartsupply.com/clutches.htm

 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#9
#9
Yes your right, it is Never-Seez.
Make sure to mix it well and you might want to wear gloves. don't get it on your cloths,it may not wash out.
A little goes a very long way. I've been using this can for at least 40 years now. Great stuff.
neverseez.jpg

Nothing wrong with using oil at all. I just don't want to stop on a 30 degree slope, unbolt the CC/chain cover and put in a drop or so of oil evey hour or so.
I like the idea of the torque converter.
I will loose top speed,but there are few times you can go faster than 15 MPH anyway on the rocky trails.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#10
#10
Well shit, I guess I will cause trouble. Never Seez pure nickel special is an anti seize compound for assembling dissimilar metal fasteners, like steel bolts into aluminum heads, (I use that all the time) and for pipe fitting. It is not recommended for high speed bearings, and it says that right on the label. It is grease with graphite, and nickel added. Moly is a trace element. This is the stuff I use to assemble engines with. It is not intended to be a lubricant, it is an anti-seize. I would not use it. Then again, if you love it, use it, because a new bushing only costs a nickel two-ninety five. Did you note the link above to the grease bolt? That would make it pretty darned easy to deal with up in the hills if you carry a small grease gun in a plastic bag.
 
S

Scottusa

Member
#12
#12
Honestly, nowhere does it say to use it for lubrication or that it lubricates anything. There is molecule size metal dust in a petroleum grease carrier and it may seem slippery because of the grease and it may indeed reduce the friction compared to two dry surfaces rubbing.... But it is not designed for lubrication. This stuff is like axle bearing grease with metal powder smaller than wheat flour dust mixed in. Surely you can see the axle grease by itself would be a better lubricant.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top