Predator 212 Governor - Limit it, or removal...???

#21
Scottusa-

You may not believe this, but other members here may have a different opinion than yours.
And that’s OK.
I have noticed that many of your responses are personal attacks, and that type of behavior is getting really old, and not good for the site. No one wants to ask questions or post comments if they are just going to be ridiculed and attacked.

Stop being so selfish, this forum is for everyone to enjoy.
We get it, you don’t like governors on minibike engines. Your opinion has been duly noted.
No need to keep running it into the ground every time the subject comes up.
 

Davis

Well-Known Member
#22
I would like to know how many people here have a governor on their car ? How many have blown up their car by over revving ?
What makes people think we has humans are incapable of governing our motors the same ways we do our car ?

my Mini Baja with 212cc HF motor has a governor with zero mechanical linkage and is intelligent. ( at least a little bit )

Now it could be a different story if I had children riding it or were loaning or renting to riders who don't care about blowing up
the engine. I am not saying all instances of governors are bad.... just the ones on vehicles I ride.
I’ve seen five throw rods and one flywheel come apart. Yes it does happen a lot more than you think. Most of these guys that post stuff like this just never come back for the I told you so lecture. Also isn’t there a sticky about improper governor removal.
 
#23
Scottusa-

You may not believe this, but other members here may have a different opinion than yours.
And that’s OK.
I have noticed that many of your responses are personal attacks, and that type of behavior is getting really old, and not good for the site. No one wants to ask questions or post comments if they are just going to be ridiculed and attacked.

Stop being so selfish, this forum is for everyone to enjoy.
We get it, you don’t like governors on minibike engines. Your opinion has been duly noted.
.
Massacre - you seem to have misread or misinterpreted my comments and noted my opinion wrongly. I absolutely LIKE/LOVE mechanical governors for all those riders who do not understand they can blow the engine up like children and those who do not have the discipline or understand technically the recommendation to limit the rpms to approximately factory recommended max rpms.

And you are right, I was aggressive in my response to the guy who called Werner a nut. and then followed by "how do you like that" ? especially in the light of his assertion not being supported EVER as far as I know by actual experience. So what does he base his assertion on ? Not history and not data. I will apologise for responding harshly to his bullying and suggest he apologize to Werner for calling him a nut since you could hurt a persons feelings by calling them a nut. I assume bullying to be a remnant childhood characteristic and I asked him to GROW UP. Next time I will be more polite and use the word "please"

Lastly we have to decide whether we ARE or ARE NOT truth seekers here. We expect assertions of fact to be truthful and correct or at least a reasonable conclusion based on observations or history or experience etc.
 
#24
Okay Werner, you’re a nut for keeping the governor and internal linkage(s) intact inside your crankcase. How’s that for ya? :D

That hardened plastic (but still plastic) governor gear, connected to the camshaft is now spinning wildly, without purpose, beyond speeds it was not designed for inside the engine. It’s a ticking time bomb not to mention a slight tidbit of parasitic drag.

Then again you said you only wanted to limit your engine and governor to 500 rpm. Will a clone 212cc even tick over that slowly (rhetorical question)?
Doh!,.. well crap, I see my type-O .... 500 rpm.. uhg! :eek:,... Meant 5000 rpm,.. I'm sure most of you figured that one though - Funny, I couldn't seem to be able to edit that post though for some reason...???

My 14 year old will be riding it mostly,.. and probably some of his inexperienced friends. I was just looking for a bit of Panic rev protection ;) My son rides dirt bikes and sport 4 wheelers, so he's good to go,.. but it's the "others" I'm more worried about.

I guess in hindsight I should have kept the stock carb and gov. hooked up and just tweaked it from there. BUT,.. I already have all the parts in hand, and who doesn't like performance upgrades!?!? haha!

I guess I'll just pull the engine back off and take her apart and remove the gov. assembly (What's the thoughts on the oil sensor? seems like a good ideal?)

I've been building engines for ever it seems like, but just wanted to throw this thing on and run it, guess I'm going to go back into it now ... I guess I get overly involved and jump way too far down the rabbit hole most of the time - my OCD kicks in most of the and I think I'm working on my Torino or something... :D Torino at Gas station.jpg Torino 351W.jpg

You guys have been great, and I really appreciate all of the comments,.. even the sarcastic ones :D ...
 
#28
I would completely remove the governor and plug the hole. If you will be opening up the engine in a couple months to upgrade parts then maybe its okay to wait but at some point you should remove the gear.
 
#29
Boy that Torino is sweet!
Beautiful! What wheels are those?
We had a ‘70 but it was a dog with only a 289. It ended rotting so bad we junked it. Was not even really safe to sell to anyone
 
#30
Use a punch to fully remove the governor shaft and then tap the hole for a set screw. Same goes for the top hole.

Get rid of the low oil switch too. It's not needed.

That hardened plastic (but still plastic) governor gear, connected to the camshaft is now spinning wildly, without purpose, beyond speeds it was not designed for inside the engine. It’s a ticking time bomb not to mention a slight tidbit of parasitic drag.
The governor runs off the crank, not the cam. There's a gear for it that's press fit onto the crank that you can remove too. Just takes a couple of hits with a hammer to get it off. If you had ever had one of these engines apart you'd know that it can't run off the cam.


On the performance cars that CAN do 155mph (VERY SMALL percentage)
, they are limited to speed and not to RPM except for very few exotics.
My old Mercedes sedan is capable of 190+mph with the tune and couple of small mods I have done. It's far from being an exotic car, but is still putting out well over 500hp.

 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#31
Grow up Harquebus. How's that. I doubt if you threw a handful of those plastic gears loose inside the crankcase that any harm would occur. Besides that the replacement cost of the engine is only $99 and if the unused timing gear only screwed up on one of every hundred motors assuming
it could do real harm.....
I don't wanna grow up! That's why I'm here, on a site devoted to grown-man toys.

And you're a weird dude, going off on some verbal tirade taking offense (seemingly) on words I said, in jest, to another guy.

So, it's okay to destroy (worst case scenario) a 99 dollar engine because it's only a 99 dollar engine ($119.99 without coupon) and only because the alternative option of removing the entire governor and all its associated parts takes too much time and effort and the cost of labor is too high.


It's not just a plastic gear, it's a pair of steel centrifugal weights attached to the gear and some thin washers, plus the paddle/arm of the governor flopping around loose in the crankcase. If that governor paddle swings outwards it could get hit and/or broken by the crankshaft or its counterweight.

The steel weights could get picked up and knocked around inside by the oil dipper, could get jammed into the crank and cam gears or jammed between the bottom of the connecting rod and the side wall of the crankcase and punch a hole in it. Multiple other scenarios, but I guess it's all only "theoretical". It's a gamble but why risk it? Oh I know why; it's only a $99 engine.


WERNER: If you're going to get into the crankcase to do a governor delete, you might as well ditch the low oil sensor too.
 
#32
Boy that Torino is sweet!
Beautiful! What wheels are those?
We had a ‘70 but it was a dog with only a 289. It ended rotting so bad we junked it. Was not even really safe to sell to anyone
Wheels - Those are Cragar Eliminator 500(G) Wheels,... and of course they don't make them any more ... I've been looking for a couple of years so I could have one for a matching spare tire and another spare wheel,... just in case ...Uhg!

She's a 69 GT Fastback, "M" code which is the factory 4V engine with 10.7:1 compression. She's been balanced, blueprinted, and everything inbetween, ... runs real strong. She's got a Built FMX trans with 2800 stall, transgo shift kit, Yukon nodular rear end with Eaton True-trac posi and 4:11's ... my BABY!!! :D
 
#33
I don't wanna grow up! That's why I'm here, on a site devoted to grown-man toys.

And you're a weird dude, going off on some verbal tirade taking offense (seemingly) on words I said, in jest, to another guy.

So, it's okay to destroy (worst case scenario) a 99 dollar engine because it's only a 99 dollar engine ($119.99 without coupon) and only because the alternative option of removing the entire governor and all its associated parts takes too much time and effort and the cost of labor is too high.


It's not just a plastic gear, it's a pair of steel centrifugal weights attached to the gear and some thin washers, plus the paddle/arm of the governor flopping around loose in the crankcase. If that governor paddle swings outwards it could get hit and/or broken by the crankshaft or its counterweight.

The steel weights could get picked up and knocked around inside by the oil dipper, could get jammed into the crank and cam gears or jammed between the bottom of the connecting rod and the side wall of the crankcase and punch a hole in it. Multiple other scenarios, but I guess it's all only "theoretical". It's a gamble but why risk it? Oh I know why; it's only a $99 engine.


WERNER: If you're going to get into the crankcase to do a governor delete, you might as well ditch the low oil sensor too.
Yeah, I'm going to go ahead and pull the engine apart and remove the governor hardware and low oils sensor... I'll keep ya all posted. I'm out of town this weekend so no work getting done until the following week :(
 
#34
I would like to know how many people here have a governor on their car ? How many have blown up their car by over revving ?
What makes people think we has humans are incapable of governing our motors the same ways we do our car ?

my Mini Baja with 212cc HF motor has a governor with zero mechanical linkage and is intelligent. ( at least a little bit )

Now it could be a different story if I had children riding it or were loaning or renting to riders who don't care about blowing up
the engine. I am not saying all instances of governors are bad.... just the ones on vehicles I ride.

I know it's old but i REALLY laughed at this reply....smdh
 
#35
Thanks for pulling this thread up (It's not t h a t old... :D ) ... This past winters project was rebuilding and beefing up the 9" rear end in the Torino. I just finished that up last weekend so hopefully I'll get back on the mini bike soon - I picked up a new welder too so I'll be itchin to do some fabrication and mods to it :D
 
#36
So I'm working on our new Predator 212, and I just put on the Mikuni 22mm performance kit from go power sports. I have a header and PVL Flywheel (Offset Key also) as well, but I don't really want to get into cam, valve springs, and connecting rod at this point..

I was wondering if there was a good way to "Limit" the existing governor to 500 rpm or a little lower, vs just removing it?

Thanks
Rick
I know this is an older post but how'd it go? I'm running a 212 Hemi and Non-Hemi both with ARC Rods, ARC Flywheels, 18# Springs AND get this THEY BOTH HAVE GOVERNORS with zip ties to boot!! I did it so I could slow my Doodlebugs down and go hard when I want to. I'm guessing you tore the governor out by now but just checking in if there was any damage to the plastic gear?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#37
ok I'll check that out.. thanks!
Not sure what you ended up doing but the easy way (if you want to go there) is to leave the original throttle spring connected to the governor arm and keep tension pulling toward the carb side of the engine. Attach it anywhere with the spring completely relaxed as it was originally at idle. The governor will just pull on the spring and the weights will bottom onto the shoulder of the plastic gear when enough RPM is there.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#38
I know this is an older post but how'd it go? I'm running a 212 Hemi and Non-Hemi both with ARC Rods, ARC Flywheels, 18# Springs AND get this THEY BOTH HAVE GOVERNORS with zip ties to boot!! I did it so I could slow my Doodlebugs down and go hard when I want to. I'm guessing you tore the governor out by now but just checking in if there was any damage to the plastic gear?
So you have 18 pound springs and the zip tie. With enough fuel that would make around 7K RPM. I guess that would answer one of the questions/concerns in this thread. Many people have ran over 5K regularly with the governor gear present.
 
#39
So you have 18 pound springs and the zip tie. With enough fuel that would make around 7K RPM. I guess that would answer one of the questions/concerns in this thread. Many people have ran over 5K regularly with the governor gear present.
The non-hemi has a hemi piston and they both have Ruixing 212 carbs with 38/140 jet kits, intake and ct200u headers with twist on mufflers. The hemi is on a DB30S with a clutch, the non-hemi is on a DB30S with a torque converter. Great bikes. This is the Hemi with a governor/zip tie.
 

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