Started painting my Rupp Roadster 2.

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#1
I started painting my 1971 Rupp Roadster 2 Green Metallic since that was the original color. Prepping the gas tank is the most drawn out process and I keep adding build up sanding primer to get rid of any small dents which there are quite a few which keep appearing when rotating the tank in the light. I figure I am building a resto-mod rider with Predator 212cc with a billet flywheel and ARC billet rod and a mukuni 22mm carburetor so I need not worry about building a period correct bike. So far I just started to paint the swingarm. Here is what it looks like. 20190901_225721_resized.jpg
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#5
I went in to the paint shop that I use to get some Seat Verde Sanabria S6S mixed up and I was quoted $165.00 plus tax for just a pinto_O. The paint guy said they can mix nearly any custom colors with alternative base coats but it may not be a perfect match. So I brought in my swingarm which still had some of the paint in the swingarm hole and they scanned it and had them make up a custom color for which could be made for $48.00 or just 1/3 rd the price. Also I may not have enough either for all the pieces so I may need to get more made to finish it thankfully they wrote the coding down for the custom color. As of tomorrow I work all next week too. I now realize that prepping the frame is incredibly time consuming and dirty task. I now almost wish that I went with a heavy flake Metallic green powder coat on every thing except the gas tank (lead filler would melt) and rear fender which is fiberglass. There would be much less to paint. Also unless you get several coats of base coat on plus a clearcoat which this color needs then you can almost see right through it to the self etching primer. Since I used a torch to burn the rubber bushing out I think the color may look a little darker maybe "a bit smokey " It looks nice after the second coat and I will bring it out into the sun to see how it pops.
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#6
Oooh, you went all-out, spared no expense. :oops:

I see rattle cans in the pic though. Were they able to put it in a rattle can for you?
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#7
Oooh, you went all-out, spared no expense. :oops:

I see rattle cans in the pic though. Were they able to put it in a rattle can for you?
Yes. Much cheaper too. Saved me about $20 to put it in a rattle can over coming in a can with some thinner for the paint gun. That Seat S6S Sanbria Verde metallic is outrageously priced 3 times more expensive but it is high end paint. This paint is also automotive grade too so it will look nice without breaking the bank. Plus my build was getting so darn expensive and It is just a minibike :scooter:so what if it is not a perfect match it still looks good and I can't justify dumping tons of money into a toy. Plus the Seat Verde Sanbria would still require a clear coat too and I have 2 cans of Spray Max high gloss clear to coat it with after I get it all sprayed already sitting here in my garage.
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#8
Here it is in the sun. It looks pretty dark in the garage and pops nicely in the sun. It actually looks to vary in color depending on the light whether florescent in the garage or sunlight. Not overly dark but not as iridescent as the stock green color 20190902_115805_resized.jpg
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#9
Here is my rear fender. There is no clear coat on these painted parts and a couple of coats of 2K clear coat and 5000 grit sanding and buffing should really make it pop. I plan on spending lots of time working on the gasoline tank since that is a focal point on the bike. I ran out of paint and I wish I had bought more. 20190902_220834_resized.jpg
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#10
Painting the frame with self etching primer after stripping it. I will then sand the rougher areas out with 400 grit wet/dry paper and repeat with some more self etching primer and then it should be ready for the metalic green base coat 20190910_163744_resized.jpg
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#13
It looks really nice!
Thanks. I now need to find time to 2K clear coat it and then finally assemble the bike. Right now I am putting in 7 days in a row at work then I have a day off then back to work and last weekend I didn't look at the bike because I went fishing. My son was kind of bummed out that I hadn't finished it yet but it is hard to find time when you work full time. The nearly complete Arctic Cat Prowler was easy just a new clutch and a new carburetor and it was easy to do compared to totally restoring a bike by stripping down to the frame and painting it and clear coating it. Plus parts for the Rupp are kind of spendy too so it will be my grand finale restoration since my wife says no more after this bike. I plan on finishing it soon in my spare time. Lol.
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#15
Looks awesome ... what was the stripping process... blast or chemical strip parts... Thxzzz for sharing
180 grit hook and loop 5 inch disks finished up with 220 grit in an orbital hand sander. Self etching primer sanded with 400 grit wet/dry and then repeated any rough spots followed by the color base coat and any rough areas sanded by 800 grit wet/dry sand paper and repeated with base coat color. Just need to spray 2K clearcoat on all the parts and sand with 1000 grit wet/dry and repeat and then 2500 grit and buff out gasoline tank to make it look like a professional paint shop did it. Turned out nice.
 

GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#16
Wet sanded the gas tank with 3000 grit thin sponge type wet sand paper and sprayed with Spraymax 2k Glamor clearcoat and it is starting to look really good. Just a small amount of very subtle orange peel which should 5000 grit out and buff out totally. I actually need to buy more spraymax 2K since I used 2 cans to give the bike a nice first coat. I say another 2 cans ought to do a really nice job. 20190923_200719_resized.jpg
 
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