Homlite Trail King
- Thread starter Fourtogo
- Start date
Greyhound 6.5 ( same engine as the Predator 6.5). I made the exhaust and the air intake is custom made to keep the air filter high,under the seat.
The engine is not modified. I have to have the engine 100% reliable because of where I drive there is no cell service or another living soul for many miles.
I can provide close up photos if you'd like.
The engine is not modified. I have to have the engine 100% reliable because of where I drive there is no cell service or another living soul for many miles.
I can provide close up photos if you'd like.
Here are some photos of what was modified/changed to my Trail King. It is an early model as it does not have some of the later changes to beef up the front end. The two speed gear box was oil filled ( 120 weight oil) But I found that no matter who's seals I used the seals would weep after a 100 miles or so making a sticky mess all over the underside of the frame and rear tire/rim.
I found John Deere Cornhead Grease ( look it up) which is a high cling grease that its amazing. Any turning gear will cause this grease to migrate to it always covering the teeth of the gears.
The air intake is made from stainless steel tubing with a machined block adapter for the Chinese carb and a round adapter to fit the air filter rubber clamp ring.
This allows the air filter to sit under the seat and far away from water and mud.
The exhaust is using and adapter bought here and several sections of weldable tubing to allow the pipe to go up and over the drive belt 170 degrees. This allows the exhaust to be piped to the rear of the cargo deck well away from the rider or the cargo.
If you use the normal exhaust you will be breathing the fumes as your body creates a vacuum as you ride down the road.
The exhaust is nice and deeply throated. I wrapped the pipe with fiberglass tape for headers and it prevents any flesh from being burned. I have a clamp on Spark Arrestor that goes on the end of the sausage muffler when riding in the National forest ( by law).
The long exhaust pipe is held in place by perforated metal strapping. It is just flexible enough to prevent binding of the engine under a heavy load but strong enough to allow to stop any strain on the exhaust manifold.
I added an alternator stator to the engine, and an LED head light. I will ad a handle bar switch, battery pack,voltage regulator,inverter to the bike this summer. ( see my post on how to if you want to do this)
I included a close up of the clutch-brake. Why no one is making this device is beyond me. It is so well though out and works so well I really enjoy riding the bike. I hardly every have to use the bikes brakes. Using the engine as a brake was brilliant by Homelite.
Here is the transmission. Check out the heavy chains and thickness of the shafts! This thing is bullet proof.
Here is the intake and air filter high riser. Choke is flicked on with your finger.
Here is the original primary drive Maxamatic clutch. I wish I could find another.
Here is the driven pulley that has a one way clutch while under load.
The folding foot pegs are for a rider.
Header pipe coming off of engine and up/over the drive belt and under the cargo rack.
Here is the Summer exhaust. You can see the two metal straps holding the pipe in place. The muffler clears the cargo deck by 1/8TH of an inch.
Left side of my bike. It needs a bath, but I ride the snot out of my bikes darn near everyday.
Right side of the bike. You can see the shifter just behind the seat. You can shift it on the fly but I don't.
If you need more photos let me know.
I found John Deere Cornhead Grease ( look it up) which is a high cling grease that its amazing. Any turning gear will cause this grease to migrate to it always covering the teeth of the gears.
The air intake is made from stainless steel tubing with a machined block adapter for the Chinese carb and a round adapter to fit the air filter rubber clamp ring.
This allows the air filter to sit under the seat and far away from water and mud.
The exhaust is using and adapter bought here and several sections of weldable tubing to allow the pipe to go up and over the drive belt 170 degrees. This allows the exhaust to be piped to the rear of the cargo deck well away from the rider or the cargo.
If you use the normal exhaust you will be breathing the fumes as your body creates a vacuum as you ride down the road.
The exhaust is nice and deeply throated. I wrapped the pipe with fiberglass tape for headers and it prevents any flesh from being burned. I have a clamp on Spark Arrestor that goes on the end of the sausage muffler when riding in the National forest ( by law).
The long exhaust pipe is held in place by perforated metal strapping. It is just flexible enough to prevent binding of the engine under a heavy load but strong enough to allow to stop any strain on the exhaust manifold.
I added an alternator stator to the engine, and an LED head light. I will ad a handle bar switch, battery pack,voltage regulator,inverter to the bike this summer. ( see my post on how to if you want to do this)
I included a close up of the clutch-brake. Why no one is making this device is beyond me. It is so well though out and works so well I really enjoy riding the bike. I hardly every have to use the bikes brakes. Using the engine as a brake was brilliant by Homelite.
Here is the transmission. Check out the heavy chains and thickness of the shafts! This thing is bullet proof.
Here is the intake and air filter high riser. Choke is flicked on with your finger.
Here is the original primary drive Maxamatic clutch. I wish I could find another.
Here is the driven pulley that has a one way clutch while under load.
The folding foot pegs are for a rider.
Header pipe coming off of engine and up/over the drive belt and under the cargo rack.
Here is the Summer exhaust. You can see the two metal straps holding the pipe in place. The muffler clears the cargo deck by 1/8TH of an inch.
Left side of my bike. It needs a bath, but I ride the snot out of my bikes darn near everyday.
Right side of the bike. You can see the shifter just behind the seat. You can shift it on the fly but I don't.
If you need more photos let me know.
the drive clutch is also an engine brake. When you close ( back off) the throttle the clutch locks to the engine shaft and uses the compression of the engine to slow you down. With my stock engine it is impressive. With a highly modified engine it would really be something to feel.
While not a Jake-Brake, which uses and engines exhaust to slow the vehicle down, the result is about the same.
The bikes engine is turned into a momentum air compressor. It drops out bat about 250 RPM and you free wheel. If you blip the engine, the clutch engages/disengages almost instantly braking the bike again.
Other than really steep ( as in you can't stand up) the brake works well in slowing you down.
A panic stop using the Maxamatic and the bikes two brakes will smoke the tires as every thing locks up.
The instant you give the engine the "gas" your moving again under power. There is no delay.
While not a Jake-Brake, which uses and engines exhaust to slow the vehicle down, the result is about the same.
The bikes engine is turned into a momentum air compressor. It drops out bat about 250 RPM and you free wheel. If you blip the engine, the clutch engages/disengages almost instantly braking the bike again.
Other than really steep ( as in you can't stand up) the brake works well in slowing you down.
A panic stop using the Maxamatic and the bikes two brakes will smoke the tires as every thing locks up.
The instant you give the engine the "gas" your moving again under power. There is no delay.
OK it's been five months since the last update to this, the definitive Trail King thread from what I can tell (Amazing job on both the OP's restomod build AND Rapidrob's wonderful red TK). So anyway- how goes the build? Is it up and riding yet? Again props for the amount of work being done here, this is nice to see. Anyhow, I'm off to build a new exhaust header for my TK so I can stop pooping fumes all over my flatbed rail. 
It’s Rider now going build a new gas tank . Somewhere in between 3/4-1 gallon it going to be stainless steel . I ordered the top hat petcock bung/bungs they come four to a pack . And the mounting top hat threaded weld in bungs . And NOS Tecumseh tall fuel tank bracket . I also made a heat shield , it’s a stepped shield 2 1/8“ too 1 1/2” . That has titanium DEI style heat wrap , glued on the back with ultra high heat RTV. Runs real well brakes work great engine starts easily . I have a 4 1/2“ head light , and I going build a tail light stop light . That will made 12”X 10” using LED strip lights , glued in a U shaped housing with clear epoxi . The front tire is a original Goodyear split cracked in so many directions. I have brand new tire to put on , surprisingly the tire still hold air .
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Heck yeah that's what I'm talkin' about! And great minds think alike- I had already discussed w my wife the possibility of utilizing a repurposed motorcycle steering damper to provide some sort of rebound control for the leaf spring suspension and I see you've solved for that with your mini shocks. I'm also really digging the extra loop you added to join the top of the seat mast together permanently. Well I mean I love it all but I'm certainly taking notes on certain portions of your build here for my own TK.
Awesome progress, I'm glad I bothered you for the update!
Awesome progress, I'm glad I bothered you for the update!