Where to get a coleman rb200?

#21
The bt200x I have is silver with chrome just like you bought. Well I guess you seen the picture!

The only thing I'd change for myself is taller bars. A set of risers or bars that put them up 2 to 4 inches higher would make it perfect for me. But since my daughter claimed it ill leave it alone. I have the stage 1 parts ready to go on but she isn't ready for mods. She is just now opening it all the way up going up the hill in the yard.

We have a rural king local. They are always flush with coleman products. Go karts, minibikes and now they a 200cc 4 wheeler.

The bt fit and finish is pretty good. It's better than my CT! I think they have stepped up their game a bit.

I'm happy as all get out with the coleman bike. 10 years ago you never would have gotten me to buy a China minibike....! They great and much better than searching on ebay for weeks to find a part then paying inflated prices.
I just ordered a set of red fenders, chain guard ( I like options ) and a 60 tooth sprocket from Monster Scooter Parts. I try not to order anything from Coleman directly as their shipping is OUTRAGEOUS!. Unlike everyone else who wants to go faster, I bought mine for actual trail riding. Once I remove the tack weld from the throttle stop, adjust the governor to 5,000 RPM and get the 60 tooth sprocket installed it should be plenty fast and have enough torque to tame the trails I ride on. I too was pondering taller bars and while at Monster Scooter Parts, I typed in "handlebars" in their search bar and looked at most of their options. It seems they have bars for many different bikes available, just make sure to read their dimensions as I saw one set that looked like they would be perfect but then noticed they were for a small electric quad and were probably too small. There's a moped website called "Treatland" that has all sorts of handlebars that are more mini bike size than most motorcycle bars. From what a lot of people have said is the 20x7-8 knobby tires work better on the trails than the stock tires so I may check into those in the future. My China TAV is on the way and I ordered the riser plate from OldMiniBikes Warehouse so I don't have to cut the frame to install the TAV. Now that I have 2 bikes, I may come up with my own solution to raise and shift the engine forward, even as simple as the OldMiniBikes one is, I don't like rivet nuts and it's a bit over engineered in my book.
 
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toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#22
Check out the sunf big horn knock off. Those things straight hook up off road. I'm still running 19x7x8 on mine.

My ct200u is my trail bike. Throttle stop is removed and the governor spring slightly tweaked. Hits 4000rpm. Still running 10/50 gearing but it will throw me on the ground with ease from a dead stop. Hill climbs you have to be careful with throttle. It'll just stand up.

I was going to make my own engine plate for the bt but no need now.

I have coleman tote. Enough parts in there to upgrade a new bike with everything I wanted.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#23
I just ordered a set of red fenders, chain guard ( I like options ) and a 60 tooth sprocket from Monster Scooter Parts. I try not to order anything from Coleman directly as their shipping is OUTRAGEOUS!. Unlike everyone else who wants to go faster, I bought mine for actual trail riding. Once I remove the tack weld from the throttle stop, adjust the governor to 5,000 RPM and get the 60 tooth sprocket installed it should be plenty fast and have enough torque to tame the trails I ride on. I too was pondering taller bars and while at Monster Scooter Parts, I typed in "handlebars" in their search bar and looked at most of their options. It seems they have bars for many different bikes available, just make sure to read their dimensions as I saw one set that looked like they would be perfect but then noticed they were for a small electric quad and were probably too small. There's a moped website called "Treatland" that has all sorts of handlebars that are more mini bike size than most motorcycle bars. From what a lot of people have said is the 20x7-8 knobby tires work better on the trails than the stock tires so I may check into those in the future. My China TAV is on the way and I ordered the riser plate from OldMiniBikes Warehouse so I don't have to cut the frame to install the TAV. Now that I have 2 bikes, I may come up with my own solution to raise and shift the engine forward, even as simple as the OldMiniBikes one is, I don't like rivet nuts and it's a bit over engineered in my book.
Are you going to have to deal with the 16mm crankshaft? One of the latest Coleman bikes (RB200?) has a 196 Lifan with a 3/4" crankshaft.
 
#25
Are you going to have to deal with the 16mm crankshaft? One of the latest Coleman bikes (RB200?) has a 196 Lifan with a 3/4" crankshaft.
That's nice to hear that they are starting to use an engine with a 3/4" crank. Mine has the Hisun with the 16mm crank, I thought about swapping the crank but it's less work to just put a lighted flywheel on a non-hemi predator. Some would say it's less work to just use the crankshaft adapter, I for one don't like using the adapter, it seems very hodge-podge if you ask me.
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#26
That's nice to hear that they are starting to use an engine with a 3/4" crank. Mine has the Hisun with the 16mm crank, I thought about swapping the crank but it's less work to just put a lighted flywheel on a non-hemi predator. Some would say it's less work to just use the crankshaft adapter, I for one don't like using the adapter, it seems very hodge-podge if you ask me.
I ended up ting my hisun off and using a predator on my ct200u then used the swapped crank engine on the mb until it ate the valve spring retainers. Governor was tweaked to 4000.

I dont like adapter idea either. It just seems cheap.
 
#27
My RT200 finally showed up, no damage, front tire valve needed tweezer trick, chain seemed alil tight, went slow, used turbine oil on the clutch, drained the old oil, SAE30 in for break in, then Synthetic. Ran alil rough at first stalled a few times then ran good, I can't believe people go over 40-50 on these though lol. Change oil after how long, first run?? Tracking numbers for the BT, says 21st, the toys are piling up fast, time to sell some other ones! 60c3ae79901ea1.50902188.jpg
 
#28
As far as the best time to change the oil for the first time, I usually do it after the first 5-10 hours of use. You'll notice after about 5 hours the engine starts to feel less tight, it'll vibrate less and be more responsive to throttle inputs. I stick with conventional oil ( 5W-30 ) as with these engines, I don't feel it really matters or not if synthetic is used as the materials and tolerances aren't the greatest from the start.
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#29
I changed the oil in all my motors after the first full tank of fuel. Then I run 5w30 synthetic rural king brand in them. As said above I don't believe the synthetic does anything for it but it's about the same price and I just go for it.

That frame with better tires feels good. I ran mine up to 50s once it was together and it felt great. I'm not in it for speed. It's geared down now and will bit high 30s low 40s. I don't care about speed. I just want more than the 19mph you get stock on most new bikesm
 
#30
I have about 40 miles on the bike, on my second oil fill. No major issues so far, I use turbine oil on the clutch after every ride. I backed out the throttle screw and was hitting around 23. I went to do the ziptie trick on the gov and noticed a hole to the right nearer the edge and put the spring in that hole. Now the gov is not kicking in and I am around 27mph, at 220 I guess that's not too bad but its too slow for the road.

Now I need to find a good tail light(possibly one with the turn signals and remote on the handlebars and maybe upgrade the the headlight. I am thinking of attempting to get this street legal, asked Coleman for the certificate of origin.
 
#31
I have about 40 miles on the bike, on my second oil fill. No major issues so far, I use turbine oil on the clutch after every ride. I backed out the throttle screw and was hitting around 23. I went to do the ziptie trick on the gov and noticed a hole to the right nearer the edge and put the spring in that hole. Now the gov is not kicking in and I am around 27mph, at 220 I guess that's not too bad but its too slow for the road.

Now I need to find a good tail light(possibly one with the turn signals and remote on the handlebars and maybe upgrade the the headlight. I am thinking of attempting to get this street legal, asked Coleman for the certificate of origin.
Many states are different as far as titling a mini bike goes. Even if you get a builders title, Michigan has a bunch of crap that just about makes it not worth going through the trouble which I believe is their goal behind it. Not only do you need turn signals, tail light and brake light, mirrors, you need a high and low beam headlight (that projects a certain distance). The headlight, tail light and seat have to be a certain height from the ground, it has to have a front and rear brakes, plus you'll have to find DOT speed rated tires, lots of little things to consider, at least here in Michigan. I looked into it a little bit and noticed they even wanted what engine was being used and from what. I thought if I told them it was a power equipment engine that isn't DOT emission rated (taxed), they wouldn't give it the go. But it does say once all the requirements are met, take it to a law enforcement officer for inspection, if you know a cop that'll sign it off, who knows?.
 
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toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#32
In ohio I successfully did it with an assembled motorcycle title. All required lights. It said dot tires but I couldn't find any. The sherrifs office signed off on it and just checked lights, speedometer, mirrors and horn.

It's not as fun or as great as it sounds. I rode around a bit on it. I think I renewed the plate twice. Better off just to pick up a grom or monkey. At least then you can run the speed limit on anything but interstates.
 
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