There's no point in asking for advice if you're not going to act on it. I should know. After 7 or 8 attempts to start the engine, it failed to start. Out it went (it really wasn't as difficult or time consuming as I thought). Then I made a 90 mile round trip to exchange the old new engine for a brand new engine. Tomorrow I'll install it on the bike frame and let her run. I was surprised to find the bolts to the riser plate and frame loose when I had made a full fledged effort to tighten them prior to installing the Predator engine. We'll try again, this time with lock tight or something similar. It was taking too much of my time but I'm convinced the problem was something I did. I did check the gas line from the tank and manifold as well. Both were tight and functioning properly. I'd like to do the Stage 1 kit install as well but I failed to order the vent caps and I can't find them locally. I don't like ordering online... Thanx again to SAS289 and of course Lizardking ...
First Minibike & Engine Swap - Need Help
- Thread starter Hannibal
- Start date
If I were you I would not install the stage1 kit, you want reliability and your using it for hunting and emergency's. You'll have an open pipe and open air filter and you'll have to learn how to jet it. Do you really think a straight pipe is a good Idea for hunting? The bike will likely be in the weather so I don't think an open foam filter will be your friend. You should learn the basics of small engines and maintenance especially of the carburetor before you modify it. The stock motor makes good power and should do what you need it to do. A good quality torque converter and good gearing would get you further for your needs IMHO. Use nylock nuts on your bike. Regardless I hope you have fun with your bike!
New engines never come with oil in them. There might be a bit of residual from them being run at the factory, but that's it. They always need to be filled. I've bought new 5.5 clones, 6.5 clones and 212 Predator engines and that's always been the case.
Many years ago I sold a new in the box 6.5 clone to some kid. He texted me saying I sold him a bad engine that blew up shortly after he installed it. I asked if he put oil in it and he said no. He had no idea these engines don't come with oil in them. He went from being pissed at me to "aww fuck" pretty quick.
Many years ago I sold a new in the box 6.5 clone to some kid. He texted me saying I sold him a bad engine that blew up shortly after he installed it. I asked if he put oil in it and he said no. He had no idea these engines don't come with oil in them. He went from being pissed at me to "aww fuck" pretty quick.
Actually the pipe is necessary. USFS requires a USDA spark arrestor, and noise limit is 70 decibels at 50 feet. It might meet the noise level requirement but it must have a spark arrester, the pipe will be the only option. I might be pulling a one wheel cart so the extra power will help. The filter ideally should, and possibly can be attached and housed in the factory filter housing cover. I have several jets which I can use if needed. The converter will come soon, very soon. I have a new 70 tooth sprocket which will be installed with the converter. I should have fun with it. I'm tired of the oversized, overweight dual sport and dirt bikes I've used in the past... Thanx for the input....
I think your diagnosis is accurate. The new motor which I purchased would not start while resting on the kickstand so I maintained it in an upright 90 degree position and it eventually started. Letting the engine idle I allowed the bike to rest on the kick stand and within minutes it shut off. The oil was filled to the max. The engine I returned did have the oil sensor partially removed (I think) so that may have been a contributing factor to its' failure to operate along with other fuel related problems IMHO. The sensor seems to be quite sensitive. I'll have to be careful when starting the bike until I can remove it properly....
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I always prefer to assume the blame when anything goes wrong, especially repairs. But it may have been a combination of oil sensor related and fuel line problems. There could have been a manifold leak as well which I wasn't able to detect. My fault, the manufacturer's, or a combination of both it seems to be running properly though I need to adjust the throttle cable. Tomorrow after the fine tuning ( to include disabling of the oil sensor), I'll have the confirmation I need. But in any case, thanx again along with the other members for the help.....
I think you found something like this but I will post it up anyway. Check also if you need permits to operate/inspections will happen if you do. https://studylib.net/doc/10421653/spark--arrester-guide—-off-highway--vehicles---ohv--volum...
This is califonia law check your area https://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=23039
The fine is pretty big. even some stock pipes do not qualify.
This is califonia law check your area https://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=23039
The fine is pretty big. even some stock pipes do not qualify.
Leave the oil level sensor alone. I don't understand the need to leave it running while sitting on a kickstand but it's warning you that the oil level is not high enough (or tilted too much) to lubricate the engine if that's what is shutting the engine off. If you don't have a run stand to keep the bike level and rear tire off the ground get a milk crate...and maybe adjust your kickstand?