Not that you can hear anyway. IMO you need to be running better gas than that.
What cam is in there? Water-cooled car engines with lower head temps would gladly ping on your combination of compression/fuel/timing.
What little I've been able to find over the years suggests that the 140 has a smaller flywheel taper, perhaps similar to a GX110 or 120.
No, hadn't even heard about it.
I always make the joke that most persistent carb problems are caused by ignition. ;)
Will it fit a GX140 crank? There's also the complication that I don't have the 140 magneto any more whereas I do have all the parts to run digital. I wanted to in the long run ayway; it's just happening sooner...
After beating the tar out of my arm last week, I'm thinking that the magneto is suspect. Spark strength has become erratic and the engine doesn't want to stay lit. No change in air gap and you'll notice no kill switch, so it wasn't that either. I've had problems with these weed wacker ignitions...
When referring to the "chrome-" or "iron-" colored rings, standard terminology means the ring face, not the whole thing. Honda's assembly charts specifically reference this as shown. Yours are in the wrong order as evidenced by not just the color, but also the chamfered one not being in the top...
I used a piston stop and degree wheel to set timing at about 34°, cranked it over with a drill motor and timing light to verify, and then put the recoil on and gave it a few tugs. Despite the tiny flywheel, it's not that hard to turn over with such low compression and a stock cam. It gave me two...
Something else they talked about was how much more durable and reliable the engine became as they improved fuel control and vaporization. The vapor burns while liquid tends to detonate and break things when the burn and/or piston is trying to compress it. A lot of those engines were running low...
You have two options at this point: tear it down and see if you got it right or keep running it to see if it stops smoking. The only other common sources of oil are the valve guides (not likely here IMO) and the breather setup.
They still had problems getting the engine running on cold nights. Nitro's flash point is pretty high at 95-96°F. Gasoline's FP is often -20 to -40°F and methanol is in the mid 50s.
1.) Hopefully it won't; I put it at that wonky angle for a reason specific to the Hemi head. I'll let that one marinate. ;)
2.) Yep.
3.) 20.7mm
4.) Cable. Might just remove it though.
5.) Unfortunately my screen name is derived from a Mustang I had about four Mustangs ago. Now I have a '68 and...
I still have to make a coil bracket and one-off starter cup before it will be ready to fire. It's mocked-up with stock parts here to get some dimensions.
And I painted the zoomie black. :cool:
Neway makes different insert types with different cutting faces. It looked like maybe he was using correction cutters for moving material. It is still misuse of the tool even ignoring the high speed drill.
I don't like the square-bottomed chamber cut around the valve seats either. And that...
I may do this myself with an old Yamaha 250 engine. One big concern I have is a possibility of the crank halves being through-hardened. I expect the ends to be since both are threaded and one is also splined. Since it's a full-circle crank about 6" in diameter, shaving off that much hardened...
I still have to port match it and do maybe a few other things, but that's as far as it's along right now. The big round flanges at either end are staying because I think they will be useful later.
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