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Personally i like the DB30 style kill switch. i buy them by the bucket load from tenma or ebay china (used to be about $1 each.) and half the time the printing on the switch is reversed. ha! i just scrape it off with a razor blade. but the reason i like this switch is the ease it is to train...

handlebar mounted kill switches should *always* be on the left side handlebar. that way if you go down, and bury the throttle in the dirt leaving the engine WFO, you can easily get to the kill switch. also the momentary push button style is a no-go too. it should be a on/off toggle. the...

Also forgot to mention it's a J series h35 which points to the 1970s.

would agree it's a go kart motor. also it's 1973. that style of ID tag was only used in 1972 and 1973 (pressed-in numbers, opposed to raised number.)

correct 20 degree. sorry my mistake

understood joe. though my opinion would be to make an exact copy, or it's not worth it. i can make a tag that is not exact. but if you could do exact copies, to me, it would be the only way.

the tag numbers looks really good. but your spacing is just a little off, too much space between letters/numbers. get that right and you won't be able to tell the difference.

i had an HS40 once with a worn crankshaft rod journal. the engine went through hell with low oil, and it threw the original rod through the side of the case. it was a rupp engine with the 3" pto and ball bearing side cover. someone jb welded the case hole (actually a nice job.) the cylinder was...

the position of the 4 leg pull start mounts is dependent solely on application. Minibikes with flat motor mounts will have the pull start legs at 6/12 oclock. 30 degree slant engine mini bikes, as introduced by Fox in late 1969 and used by Rupp and Speedway, will have pull start legs at 11/1...

that serial tag style stopped in 1971. by 1972 the tag font went from raised to recessed. and by 1973, the whole tag system disappeared. and that blower housing is an early style, with no strain relieve in the top section where the head bolts. they only used that blower housing style in 1969 and...

i think you're right. and it makes sense. i'm sure the copy springs are not identical to the comet springs. which changes take off and top end speeds.

personally i have both knock off and comet series20 units on my bikes. and i find the knock offs to be better. the knock offs seems to have better performance. can't explain why, but that's my experience. hence i've given up on using original comet series20 units. it may be the belt that is...

https://www.vmcchineseparts.com/collections/torque-converters/products/torque-converter-clutch-assembly-20-series-3-4-bore-for-go-karts-and-mini-bikes-version-70 https://www.vmcchineseparts.com/products/20-series-6-driven-pully-5-8-bore-torque-converter-go-karts-mini-bikes

B series HS50 from 1978. points and condenser and 14 degree flywheel taper with cast iron flywheel. great motor.

i did not like this new location. maybe it was the bicycle stuff that threw me, but it seems a lot smaller than the dedicated property that was used last year. it just did not feel as good as having a solo act facility. maybe the numbers were better for the promoter though, because the bicycle...

I've been using series20 china made units for a few years and have no complaints. in fact i like them better than the comets i have bought.

to answer that question, in the past have taken a standard 5/8" centrifugal clutch ($20) and took out the inside. welded the bell housing to the gear (if needed, can't remember.) then mounted it on a jackshaft. Used a clutch band brake and that works really well as an inexpensive jackshaft...

No you can't use a lighted alloy flywheel with a non-lighted coil. the spacing is different. but you could easily trade your lighted flywheel for a 32517 alloy flywheel. heck i'de make you that trade! (assuming your flywheel magnets are good.) that would be a good deal... for me...

this is typical. most of my minibikes have started in that condition, maybe worse. fixing the blower housing is nothing. it's the rims you should be more worried about. when they are that rusty i media blast them to get the rust off, and then spray some clear lacquer over the rims/spokes. then...

i've seen this hole problem many times. it's a round blower housing, save it. not that hard to fix really, if you weld.