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If I had that engine and something I needed an engine in, I would run it in a heartbeat.

It would really help to know where you are located.

1???? so I gotta sell 4?

Looks like fun, of course you need it.

More than likely all you need is a new diaphragm for the fuel pump and it will run fine. (assuming it is a pulsa-jet carb)

Sorry to hear of your condition, wishing you a fast and full recovery.

Brit bike guy here, I always like the look and feel of real Gran Turismo grips:

If they are strong and the look of them doesn't bother you, why mess with them. If the look bothers you then you know your answer.

Classic diner coffee mugs. Can't remember where the barrel one is from but it is my fav.

Kinda reminds me of when I used to commute to work here.

The problem with making this an overhead cam design is the crankshaft runs parallel to the valves. in order to turn the cam you would need a 90 degree conversion, like a bevel drive to turn the camshaft. the boss for the sparkplug hole looks very close to where the head bolt head would be, add...

Agree, this is an overhead valve not overhead cam. What you would need is a structure over the top to hold the rocker shafts. Problems I see with it, the valves are canted at a roughly 45 degree angle so it would need some creative rocker setup to translate the up and down from the push rods...

Mad fab skills

Your time and effort would be better spend reshaping the intake port to eliminate the dead pockets in the corners and do a slight round-over of the cylinder wall where the combustion chamber part of the head meets the deck. BTW, this is a ball bearing side cover;

By installing a longer stroke crank, you have already increased compression. The early Briggs 2, 2.5, 3, and 3.5hp all share the same block, head, piston, valves, etc. all you are doing is changing the parts to make it a 3hp out of a 2hp, if you are running reasonable rpm, balancing should not...

If I could suggest, before you go searching for aftermarket power, put a ball bearing on the output end of the crankshaft. That will free up a considerable amount of the power you are losing to friction.

Thanks, you will need the crankshaft and the connecting rod with oil slinger from the 3hp. 2hp rod bolts are inline with the length of the rod, 3hp are at an angle. When you install the longer crank, the angle allows clearance to install the rod bolts. The oil slinger is angled on the 3hp...

What brand of engine?

Sorry for your loss.

Bob, you can remove the magneto side cover (left side when mounted in the bike) and there is a nut on the end of the crank, you can turn that with a drill to test fire it. BTW, this is what a failed aluminum cylinder from one of these looks like: