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Massacre..Thanks..That's what I need..j..

Here is what I'm looking for. This is a 7HP B&S on my GOTE. I used a bellcrank and cable from an RC airplane because I had no original parts. Cable comes up from the bottom to attach to bellcrank that I pop riveted to the carb...Any thoughts ?...thanks..j..

No..I have a generic twist throttle grip and cable. Instead of having a ball on the carburetor end..mine has a square piece of metal..about an inch long..3/16 square that has a slot cut into it to slid over the carb linkage..then a small cotter pin secures it..

I want to replace my throttle kit. The one I have that works on my linkage is not a ball end..but a square piece of bar stock..about an inch long..with a slot cut in it..Secures with cotter pin..Anyone recognize the setup ? I had to use a bell crank on my GOTE linkage ..and this works...

The original instructions say to partially deflate both tires...then tighten strap on front tire..and do the same on the rear after joining ends with master...then AIR THEM UP !! I have NO plans to use this contraption..just thought it was a nice collector item..

Let me count the ways !

This may be old news to some. The carb. on my 1974 7HP B&S was leaking. In my search, I found....Isavetractors.com...They have tons of parts for old engines like ours. I go a NEW updraft carb. that is updated with internal "O" rings and improved flow...$69.95..I put it on my engine. It fired...

Mr. T..Thanks for the diagram. That is what I have. Mine has the long bolt. I tried again last night with punch and hammer. Did not move a bit.. I'll try again...j...

Thanks..I'll grind..My wheel has the long bolt. Guess I'll have to get the hammer out..I appreciate the help..j..

My Gote has the internal band brake..like an old Schwinn..I tried removing the wheel to check the lining...but...Does the front axle drive out after removing the one bolt ? Don't want to damage anything..Also..Is it OK the use a die grinder to smooth down the rivets...then drive out.. to shorten...

Original B&E 1974 updraft is toast. Threads are stripped..so it's time for a new one. I see several online as replacements..Has anyone ever used an aftermarket ?

That is what I have now. I'll rough up the liner..or get a new one..j..

Thanks..I'll try to improve the stockers . I figured there was no easy way to go to disc..

studeman 68...Tried to open your pics..Says I can't.??

As I said in the title....Gote Model P...I just adjusted the brakes again..but this thing is too dangerous for an 11 year old..unless it gets better brakes..Do I measure the diameter of the brake itself..if I have to order a new band. I see they come in many different sizes..all around 4" or...

Before I turn this over to my Grandson, I'd like to upgrade brakes. Any ideas or thoughts ???? Thanks..jv..

This is where I ended up...I took the pillow blocks..chains..and shaft off..and started from scratch..After about 2 hours of aligning..measuring. ..bolting and rebolting...I got it all back together..On the stand.....I could move the belt with 2 fingers..and the chains/spockets moved...

As I posted yesterday. My "P" was all back together. I adjusted the chains..via pillowblocks..to about 1/2" both ways. I didn't know how much slack for the belt ??? tightened things up..took it off the stand...and it would not roll the back tire !! After some further searching...it seemed like...

Well.Thanks for the help..and it's all back together. I have about 1/2" slack in the chains...Brakes are good..and I have a spare rear brake if needed. I had an ammo can powder coated to match the frame..and mounted it up front. The side screens were powder coated too..New B&S engine. I'll start...

I have the complete wheel bolted to the frame..Axle is in..Big chain is off..Jackshaft chain is on. I assume jackshaft install is next..then big chain...Adjust wheel centerline.....grease..RIDE ??..