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Get a real Mikuni. Those Nibbi carbs are cheap for a reason.

Already reported this shithead. You guys should just let these threads die and hopefully the mods will delete the account. There is NO need for any further replies.

Already reported this shithead. You guys should just let these threads die and hopefully the mods will delete the account. There is NO need for any further replies.

Just make sure that slack is in the loose spot of the chain. All chains have a tight and loose spot.

I've been as heavy as 300lbs and didn't have any issues. I'm currently about 235lbs (around 250lbs geared up) and will even run 20+ psi in the tires for street riding.

I've used the one linked below before. It worked well and I didn't have any issues. You still need to make sure your chain has the correct amount of play when using one. https://rcfminibikes.com/product/rcf-universal-engine-block-mount-adjustable-chain-tensioner/

Centrifugal clutches don't care if they're mounted inboard or outboard, they work the same either way. If you're running something like a Bully disc clutch, then they must be mounted outboard. Your standard clutch, it doesn't matter. Good job saying something definitely doesn't work when...

Why his video? He's not one of the well known minibike YT people and doesn't even show the engine running. At least watch someone reputable if you're going to follow their video to the T.

The minibike sub on Reddit is good for asking questions if you want a 14yo with 3 months of experience watching YT videos on minibikes answering your question. You've got some "grumpy" people on here, but they will help. That's if you want to do things the right way. If you want to half-ass...

I often wonder how some of these people make it through the day. If they're younger it's even worse. They've grown up with the internet and should know how to research stuff. I guess I'm really not that surprised though after seeing how many stupid questions and wrong info gets posted on the...

I had a 212 that I did a governor bypass on. The engine had maybe 5 minutes of run time on it when I pulled it apart to do the rod and flywheel. I found governor pieces inside the case. Luckily there was no damage done, but it could have been bad. If you want to remove the governor do it...

If the clutch is engaging at idle, then your idle is most likely way too high. Standard clutches usually engage in the 2000-2200rpm range. What's your chain tension like? You want about 1/2"-3/4" of play in the loose spot. All chains have a tight and loose spot. If you have some knock-off...

That's your clutch. As already mentioned, have you ever oiled the bushing?

Those PWK carbs are junk and are cheap for a reason. Spend the money on a real Mikuni after you do the billet rod and flywheel.

Can't fix stupid.

I'm not sure what you're getting at. The frame is welded there. Due to paint/lighting/shadows it may not look like it. That's not a chain tensioner either, it's a roller to keep the chain from riding on the frame.

On mine it required welding new mounts for it. GoKartsUSA does offer a cylinder style tank that mounts to the engine. I don't know if it will fit a CT200U. I haven't personally tried it nor am I a fan of them as a seller. They're local to me as well and I won't use them. It is a potential...

Staying with the stock wheels? No. I went down to 6" wheels on mine (hence the "small tire" mod) and it was not a bolt-on mod. Welding/fabrication was required for the rear brake. Luckily I have a friend that can do that stuff.

A stock CT200U does not top out at 40mph. I had one, it was slow as shit. Did a small tire conversion with a bunch of mods and now it's running right around 60mph. Going with a smaller sprocket doesn't always mean it will be faster. I had a drag bike that was faster with a 65t rear than it was...

Predator swap is a waste of money. You'd be better off putting that money towards mods on the stock engine. Like Charles said, if you want to do an engine swap do a Ducar 212. If you're having issues with the chain staying on it's either a bent sprocket, severely worn sprocket, the engine...