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Did you replace just the rope or the complete assembly? If just the rope you might have wound it too many turns before inserting your new rope.

Try researching the original Fantic Motor Company. There do appear to be similar design elements to later Garelli moped frames in your Broncco and reading up on Fantic i now understand why it appeared that way to me looking at the two. Interesting.

I understand that. Tight and restrictive space. Well im sure you will get it. This is the correct puller for that job but i didn't mention it earlier as a quality one does have some sticker shock attached to it. Best of luck with it.

This works also and is a simple garage piece. A coupling nut, 2 jamb nuts, and 2 bolts. One end ground to a point and one end ground to a sort of a chisel point. Torque it up inside the race and lock the jamb nuts then hit it from the opposite end more on the chisel point end than the center...

Whats your honest shop skill level? Thats not meant as insult, but rather gives me a better idea what to suggest. I deal with this kind of problem often and there are a few different ways to do it. Tacking a bolt cut to length that spans the inner diameter would be easiest then hit that from the...

Remove your main jet and holder and make sure this hole is not plugged somehow. This being blocked would cause your problem. Unlikely blocked on a new carb but not impossible.

Dumb question but i have to ask, you have tried it with the fuel valve on instead of off like it appears in its current position in the photo?

5/8"-18 thread (fine) by 7.500" length overall are your wheel bolts. Theres pics of some of the random stuff your bike originally most likely came with.

Is that clamp at the end spray painted or chrome like the rest of the pipe? Hard to tell from the picture. Clamp looks added to fit something other than its original design and its saw cut. Most manufacturers use a bolted flange for fitment. Is odd but im sure somebody had did have something in...

Any chance the i.d. of that pipes close to the o.d. of a golf ball? Put a few hose clamps around the damaged section drawed up tight to retain that outside diameter and play them through! A homemade flexible mandrel similar to one for elec. conduit pulled with a dent puller slide hammer could be...

Nothing certain for your model sorry but i have seen some other members here talk on the subject. Some model bikes are on the forks and some on a tag on the front lip area of the engine mount plate. If you do find any surely someone might know something. Unless Mr. Superflea is correct :rolleyes:

If it still has the original paint or at least old paint close to original period would you be able to see any heat cracking or cooked paint in the front foot peg tube area from a front engine exhaust pipe used on the Hodaka? Or any in the rear tube area from the Tecumseh?Something you might be...

Puzzling im sure and trying not to destroy period correct hardware i get that also. Any chance the neck bolt has a groove ring worn around it on one end or the other or both ends trapping the sheetmetal of the fork assembly in that worn groove? Or wear thats caused a ring ridge around the bolt...

Im kind of thinking like Triley41395. What ever you have the most of alike (2/3rds) it sounds find the same for the rear sprocket. Match all your driveline groups pitches. Then you might find the chain throwing to cease. However if you want to tinker with extra chain security in a failure, try...

I might be crazy but the chain appears to be from a bicycle maybe? The numbers on it indicate that possibility. The links struck me as being longer than usual at first glance then of course i researched the numbers. I would look and try see what pitch that clutch and sprocket might be, my guess...

Do you have any photos of the back wheel/rim area and also the chain alignment? Might give some on lookers more option ideas to offer you. I understand what your saying and whats happening, sounds like a chain alignment issue is in play either under load or at high rpm causing the whole malfunction.

The photo is kind of hard to get any great detail from, can't tell if its a single down tube or double. If its single kind of reminds me of some sort of Caper Cycle. The era is right. Well hope you figure it out.

If no one can come through and produce any for you that are original correct i would think about perhaps sectioning a trailer fender with the correct tire size radius for a solid option. They look pretty close with a little imagination. They wouldn't be chrome however and i understand that but...

Looks good. Nice job rebuilding the missing brake hardware. Any thought to the center stand that might have been removed also? One tab of the stand support stops, one side or the other, normaly broke from being over stressed as the kid aged and legs got long enough to disengage the stand sitting...

I would have to agree with going with a torque converter set up for anything with the larger tires such as what the BT200 come with. Could a clutches inner bell friction surface and shoes be modified with spray welded carbide and gain some grab and heat reduction along with added durability...