1966 Briggs Powered Schwinn Stingray

[Havasu Dave]

Made a header with slash cut, and a chain guard for the primary. It's just hanging on the clutch in the photo. It's a challenge getting the ugly out of that primary side. I might streamline it a bit, and then paint and decal. No choice in the matter really. Ten pounds of crap in a five pound bag. Seat figured out. Since the drop out is over 2" wider than stock, the sissy bars have to widen, which caused torque on the seat mounting area. It'll be OK.

 

[sparkwizard]

Your tank and rear suspension are GENIUS quality! This is one of my all time favorite projects to follow along with.
The primary appearance is unfortunate, but I think you'll make it blend in. Great job, Sir!

 

[Minimichael]

The header looks really cool, and those handlebars are giving me flashbacks to my youth. Very nice bike.

 

[Augiedoggie]

I’m loving this build. I’m curious about the fuel tank. Is it ready made or custom built? I am studying this build closely. I usually plan my work years in advance and accumulate parts slowly

 

[Havasu Dave]

I’m loving this build. I’m curious about the fuel tank. Is it ready made or custom built? I am studying this build closely. I usually plan my work years in advance and accumulate parts slowly

Thank you for your interest Augiedoggy. I fabricated the fuel tank. No one made anything like that. There are bicycle "gas tanks" but they're half pieces which house horns and the like and nowhere near adequate, not even with modification.

I bought a cheap English wheel and Shrinker Stretcher, and cut 18 ga mild sheet and formed it. Then I made the center portion and TIG welded it all together.

 

[Augiedoggie]

Thank you for your interest Augiedoggy. I fabricated the fuel tank. No one made anything like that. There are bicycle "gas tanks" but they're half pieces which house horns and the like and nowhere near adequate, not even with modification.

I bought a cheap English wheel and Shrinker Stretcher, and cut 18 ga mild sheet and formed it. Then I made the center portion and TIG welded it all together.

Very good. You did a fine job there. I don’t have the metal working skill set to attempt that sort of work but respect those with your ability. Well done sir.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Very good. You did a fine job there. I don’t have the metal working skill set to attempt that sort of work but respect those with your ability. Well done sir.

Thanks. It was my first time doing anything like that. Watched videos, bought cheap tools, spent a week doing a job a master would have done in an hour.

 

[Augiedoggie]

Thanks. It was my first time doing anything like that. Watched videos, bought cheap tools, spent a week doing a job a master would have done in an hour.

I totally get it. I also study my project options carefully and spend far too many hours/days working until I’m somewhat satisfied with my result. My wife often refers to my workshop as “glacier garage” due to glacier speed of production here

 

[Havasu Dave]

I knocked some of the ugly off the primary side. Nothing I can do about the primary sprocket hanging so low. Needs to be there, so the other side can fit the drive chain. Added pedals/pegs.

 

[Minimichael]

The overall profile is really coming together now. No room behind the engine for the sprocket, huh. Just don't go hopping any curbs!

 

[sparkwizard]

Fantastic! A hub cap or a rocket nose cone on that jackshaft to divert an akle might be cool.

 

[Havasu Dave]

The jackshaft remains uncut pending torque check. It's generally not recommended to use centrifugal clutches on tires this tall, so JS remains uncut in case I go with the 30 TC set up I got for it.

 

[Havasu Dave]

The overall profile is really coming together now. No room behind the engine for the sprocket, huh. Just don't go hopping any curbs!

Two factors. One is the thickness of the slick doesn't allow much room for JS and Two, the chain run from sprocket meets right at the frame junction which would impede the chain. I spent days trying to work around that.

 

[Havasu Dave]

LOL, I can't do it! This looks FUGLY. If I have to have that hanging chad, I might as well not even bother. I have some other solutions in mind, but the first thing I am going to do is whack off. I mean whack it off.

 

[Minimichael]

that hanging chad, .

It's not like it's ... dangling

 

[creia]

[QUOTE="Havasu Dave, I have some other solutions in mind, but the first thing I am going to do is whack off.[/QUOTE]
Probably more than we need to know Dave ?- LOL
Michael

 

[sparkwizard]

Well, at least it's spinning the right direction to assist you over any curbs you encounter. Maybe put a little tire near that sprocket to protect chain, ankles and your sandles?

 

[Havasu Dave]

After I got done whacking off, (and grinding, highly recommend that power file) I opted to use some Hent.com Flexo plates mounted backwards. You can see in the subsequent photos the issue I had with them, and why I did not use them. However I will whack off some pieces of 10 ga and tack in beneath the plates as required, and it should do what I need it to.

 

[sparkwizard]

After looking at that space yesterday, I went back and read the whole thread, hoping to see why that space wasn't used.
We all knew you would never leave that shaft and sprocket down there. Great upgrade. and you can add a larger sprocket on the driven side if needed.

 

[Havasu Dave]

I have not listed the minutae of every engineering decision here, and those of you who know me over the years know I do my own thing. The rationale for not doing the JS as I ended up was because of the lack of solid places to weld the plates, and the requirement for removing the entire jackshaft and the components, when removing the rear wheel/tire. I had to try the alternative. Anyway, this is what it is now, and I have remade the clutch cover mounts so I could rotate the cover and not have to drill new holes- which I wouldn't have, I would have had to make an entirely new clutch guard.