1975 Duster MX

#21
Thanks all for the comments. There seems to be much debate on this color or that color, so all I do is try to get them close. I do list this particular code on post #6. Whether or not it's correct will be for others to judge once it's painted.

I spent another two hours with the wire brush wheel, grinder, and sander and got most of the bumps out. I did not use putty on it, since it takes away too much of what it is. I did grind down a few welds, and splatters.

Here's the paint I used. For priming these bikes when there is no rust left, these rattle cans do a fine job. If using a catalyzed sealer, you get a better job with more protection, as well as a better color choice. This is important if you're sticking to a particular formula and are matching panels in a body shop. Not so much for mini bikes.


Light etching coat, dries real fast, then two medium coats of sealer/primer.
 
#25
I shot two coats of the urethane paint detailed in post #6. While moving the gun, I bumped an adjacent piece, stopped the gun, kept the trigger on and put in a run. However I jammed the run with air, and she flattened right out. THAT is why I like urethane!

This is more red than I wanted. But it's close and I like the orange pearl in it when the sun is on it. Otherwise, it looks candy red in the garage.


 

45t

Well-Known Member
#31
Wow, very nice! I've said it before when you painted you 300TT and Hustler, but I need to send you my bikes to paint. You do nice work. :thumbsup:
 
#34
An update. It's a roller of sorts now, waiting for the chrome parts. Found that someone had screwed in a long bolt to the side cover, and broke through the case into the breather/valve area. Running engine causes pieces of aluminum to rattle around, bending valve spring retainers, and bits of aluminum were everywhere.

Meanwhile, I had to cut the clutch off of the crank, because someone had attempted to grind it off and screwed up the crankshaft. Broke the engine down, found .035 ring gap and leaky valve seats. Parts on order for the engine include .010 rings, points/condensor, seals, carb, gaskets. HS40 1971 with starter gear on the flywheel. :shrug:
 
#36
Wow:droll the color is cool - Got my fingers crossed your luck will change:thumbsup:
LOL, thanks man. If it was easy, everyone would do it, right? :laugh: I cleaned up the aluminum and ran in some JB Weld (metal epoxy) as I've had good luck with it. Just sealing ambient oil, and not much of it. It's air tight now. If this engine was in your shop, you'd have TIG welded it. :thumbsup:

I've actually got the new rings in and measured to spec. It should be a good runner. If not, I have a new clone 5.5, but I really don't like using them, because I am an anal-retentive a$$hole purist. :laugh: (Who can't match paint to save his a$$)
 
#37
Here's a quick shot of the front decal. Bad lighting in the garage with the flash going. Still waiting on chrome to come back, and engine rebuild.

SS102887.JPG SS102889.JPG SS102890.JPG
 
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#38
Here is a shot of the original engine. .010 rings gapped, valves lapped, and threads cleaned out. Waiting for seals, electrical parts, carburetor and gaskets. I used 500F engine rattle can on the block. Tins will be the same color as the bike. Never deviated from original condition before, so I hope it turns out okay.

 
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