20 series driver and driven on a Speedway Blue Angel

#5
C35C6ABC-389A-4356-B896-4D93B4BF03D9.jpeg 73425C32-8B13-409E-AA08-83525F06EC76.jpeg

later 73’s and the el Tigre frames where made to clear the Salisbury driven. The Fairbanks was replaced by the Salisbury at some point in 73 and needed the frame modified to work.
 

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#6
i don't ever remember having to do that. you did get the 6" driven right?
yep.
1x 20 Series - Driver Clutch Assembly - 3/4" Bore for Go-Karts and Mini Bikes
1x 20 Series - 6" Driven Pulley - 5/8" Bore - Torque Converter Go-Karts Mini-Bikes
Probably just a difference in suppliers. I think a little modification is worth the upgrade. I'm surprised it fits as well as it does.
 

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#8
I had a clearance issue with a washer on the front bolt holding the belt guard bracket. The rim of the driver kissed it... I mean just a RCH and that was it. It rides pretty good with the upgrade much more solid and predicable engagement. It does seem to take a lot higher RPM to get moving and it seems to slightly shudder/vibrate and give a little braking action when I decelerate. It's new and tight and I'm not really sure what to expect.
 

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#10
Thanks for the tip. It smoothed out the braking on deceleration. I think the vibration was just being magnified by the new torque converter. I hadn't lapped the flywheel to the crank when i swapped the 70 hs40 stuff to the 73 hs50. I lapped that in today and it made a big difference in the vibration. Who knew, well i bet you guys all did!
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#11
one thing that's hard to do on the speedways is alignment between drive and driven. it's a bit tricky to do, but important, and helps a lot
 

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#12
one thing that's hard to do on the speedways is alignment between drive and driven. it's a bit tricky to do, but important, and helps a lot
I was wondering if i should favor the inside of the driver since rides up the fixed motor side sheve but then i thought it drops down the driven and probably compensates for that and then I confused myself and tried my best to center it. I pushed it around with the weight side of the driver off to see where the belt ended up. If you got a better technique I'd like to hear it.
 
Last edited:

f4radar

Well-Known Member
#13
Same exact issue I had with my 30 series. CFH I wonder if you had different frames than us?
How did you put the 30 series on there?. It seemed to me that the flat/angled sheves wouldn't line up with the direction the driver and driven had to be installed
 
Top