2HP Restoration/Hot Rod

#1
Good evening folks,

It's been quite some time since my last restoration thread so I've decided to make a little comeback :thumbsup:

The Candidate: A 1969 Briggs and Stratton 2HP, with a vaccu-jet carburetor and 5/8" crankshaft
The Plan: To make a tough, reliable engine that looks better than it did new.

This motor has been lounging around the shed for quite some time now and after being inspired to finish it up I dug it out and got to work!

Before it was stripped down it had almost no compression at all, and I could easily pull the engine over with one finger, but that didn't stop it from pulling me around for several months! I had to run it ungoverned to actually make the bike move :laugh:

I tore it down about a year ago with the intention of getting it done quickly but I purchased other projects and this engine had to wait its turn! Now it's on the workbench, the bottom end all buttoned up and awaiting a new paintjob!

Since my "Hot Rod" 3HP turned out so well with the duplicolor Metalcast paint-job, I have decided to utilize the metalcast paint on this restoration. I have decided that I would like to paint the engine either Metalcast Blue or Green.

Yes, I'm painting the engine after the block is assembled. This is so that I avoid damaging the paint when installing oil seals or installing the crankcase cover.

So far, I have installed new piston rings and have new valves to be installed next. The original piston is immaculate and so is the connecting rod and crankshaft so they are all going to be re-used. The camshaft and lifters will also be re-used.

I have a brand new ignition coil and gasket set that will also be used.

Stay Tuned!
Jack



 
#5
I used it on a previous 3HP restoration.

This one: http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/briggs-and-stratton/119883-3hp-restoration-hot-rod-3.html

Surprisingly enough, it holds up to heat extremely well, and showed no discoloration or damage.

I used a High Heat primer underneath the metalcast if that makes any difference.

I also used a gloss clear on top of my final coats.

It doesn't like gas :laugh: but oil doesn't seem to be much of an issue.

I like the results I got last time so I thought to use it again :thumbsup:
 
#9
Good Evening Everyone!

Today I managed to get to the store and pickup some metalcast blue paint. I have only had experience using the red topcoat so I was curious to see if the results would be the same with the blue paint.

Luckily, the results were really good. The photos really don't do it justice, the engine looks outstanding in the sun and has a really glossy finish :thumbsup: When I first began applying it in light layers I was worried it would come out too light, as I was striving for a darker blue, but with enough coats I got the results I was after!

The block is now fully assembled and now I need to begin on the Fuel System :thumbsup:

I went with genuine Briggs gaskets this time as I scored a full set, I hope the tank gasket is better than all of the cheapo gaskets I've used in the past and doesn't leak.

Not too far away from being finished now!

Jack



 
#11
Jack-- Looks very nice. Check out the carb rebuild I did 12/6/16 in my thread for the tricks I used to try to mitigate the leaking issues. One thing you can look for in NZ is a 2-part Urethane Clear Top Coat to seal the paint. Expensive in a spray can (and I stage a bunch of parts because it has a 2 day pot life), and you need a proper mask. Eastwood has a brand and it's $25 US. Also the stripper I used is called Kleen-Strip Aircraft Stripper and is usually in the auto parts store for $15 US in the paint/body section.
 
#12
Good Evening Everyone!

Today I managed to get to the store and pickup some metalcast blue paint. I have only had experience using the red topcoat so I was curious to see if the results would be the same with the blue paint.

Luckily, the results were really good. The photos really don't do it justice, the engine looks outstanding in the sun and has a really glossy finish :thumbsup: When I first began applying it in light layers I was worried it would come out too light, as I was striving for a darker blue, but with enough coats I got the results I was after!

The block is now fully assembled and now I need to begin on the Fuel System :thumbsup:

I went with genuine Briggs gaskets this time as I scored a full set, I hope the tank gasket is better than all of the cheapo gaskets I've used in the past and doesn't leak.

Not too far away from being finished now!

Jack



Looks great Jack and I really like the blue !
 
#15
Hey Ken,

Yup you're right about the metallic base coat! That does need to be applied before the topcoat to give it the awesome metallic finish! Last time I used primer with good results, but this time I went without primer and it's holding up very well so far! :thumbsup:

There are some good instructions on the cans, I like to lay down about 3-4 coats of the base metallic paint waiting about 10 minutes between coats. After this, I apply the topcoat, in this case the blue, in light layers waiting 10 minutes between coats. For this, I usually don't limit the amount of coats, I just go until I get the desired outcome, not too light but not too dark either. I applied about 5 layers of the topcoat to this motor to get the colour I wanted :thumbsup: Keep the first 3 or so layers light, and then start making your layers heavier after this. Not too heavy!

With the metal-cast paint it is very important to get your base-coat layed down evenly, otherwise it very clearly shows through your final product and will have a patchy appearance as I found with the cooling shroud I painted today!

I hope this answers your question!

Jack
 
#16
Jack-- Looks very nice. Check out the carb rebuild I did 12/6/16 in my thread for the tricks I used to try to mitigate the leaking issues. One thing you can look for in NZ is a 2-part Urethane Clear Top Coat to seal the paint. Expensive in a spray can (and I stage a bunch of parts because it has a 2 day pot life), and you need a proper mask. Eastwood has a brand and it's $25 US. Also the stripper I used is called Kleen-Strip Aircraft Stripper and is usually in the auto parts store for $15 US in the paint/body section.
I'll be sure to hunt around for some 2-part urethane clear, I believe I have been advised to use this before but could not find any locally. I will keep searching, however!

I did see your carb rebuild notes and will be sure to use them! The carb this engine has is the remarkably simple vaccu-jet, which has no diaphragm and only one pickup tube. They don't perform as well as the pulsa-jet, but they are much simpler. I always make sure to true up my carb to block surface, the linisher makes quick work of this and removes all impurities and straightens the surface out :thumbsup:

I always find it difficult to work with the carb to tank surface as like you stated in your restoration thread, it's obstructed by the pickup tubes! I would love to true up that surface as it seems to be the one that is always in the worst shape. Only thing is, I have no idea how to install the pickup tubes once I've got them out! I can still hear the tube rolling around in the bottom of my 5HP tank :shrug:

I need to look for a new throttle butterfly. This carb uses the removable one piece butterfly and when I had this thing screaming along on my minibike, giving it all it had, the cast "eye" on the butterfly that held the cable in place snapped off. I may have found a remedy but I have not tested it :thumbsup:

Thanks Doc,
Jack
 
#17
Elaborating on the metalcast paint -

As you can see by looking at the shroud in the second picture, it's a little patchy! (It is quite hard to see, but it's there). This is what happens when the base coat is not evenly applied. For whatever reason, I was rushing to get this shroud painted up. Maybe it was because I was upset with how lazy the recoil spring I had just so carefully installed was (retracts painfully slowly - it's tired), or maybe I was excited to see how the metalcast blue would look against the incorrect 3HP decal :shrug: I know the 3HP decal is WRONG, but I don't want to scrape it off and waste it so it'll stay for now :laugh:

When used correctly, metalcast is an unbelievable paint! It looks a little dull indoors, but out in the sun it looks really really good :thumbsup:

Next up, I need to paint up the air filter and purchase a new gas cap. Once I fix the carb throttle (my issue with it is stated in the above post) we should be ready to run!

This engine has come a long long way from where it once was. I purchased a tru-test (lil indian) minibike late last year with this little motor on it. With a clean up of the points system, it started on the second pull after sitting for who knows how long! The governor had to be removed for the bike to move anywhere, as it lacked the power to actually go anywhere. It managed to get me along surprisingly quickly, and I ran it for a good 3 months. We had some great times on the bike until I restored it for the 2016 build off and superseded this engine with a 1973 3HP that I found at the same swapmeet. This engine has sat around until now, and I'm glad to be restoring it. I don't think I'll be selling it, I think it would be great to use on something like a ride on cooler or some kind of gimmicky, hot rod project (something to cruise around swapmeets on perhaps!

Enough of that, here it is now. My camera likes to brighten things up, so the paint looks a little washed out. In person, it awesome to look at :thumbsup:

Jack



 
#18
I always find it difficult to work with the carb to tank surface as like you stated in your restoration thread, it's obstructed by the pickup tubes! I would love to true up that surface as it seems to be the one that is always in the worst shape. Only thing is, I have no idea how to install the pickup tubes once I've got them out! I can still hear the tube rolling around in the bottom of my 5HP tank :shrug:

Jack
Jack, I got around the Fuel Pick Up tube problem by using a very stiff and flat butter/cheese spatula. Sneak one out of the kitchen.:laugh: I wrapped wet/dry paper one layer thick and kept even pressure on the spatula (nice and slow). Did a nice job. The Vacu Jets can be really frustrating as they are so simple.

Excellent instructions on how to apply metalcast, BTW. You ought to try some layering of different metallic base colors with the blue, red and orange (even green if you can get it). I was able to match the color of one of my Gilsons by layering silver base + gold metallic + orange metalcast + red metalcast (you to add and subtract color between coats).
 
#20
And, here's a source for 2K Urethane. It's available in-store only at Super Cheap.

Lyndar 2K Clear Coat Aerosol Paint, 400g - Supercheap Auto
Thanks for that, Doc!

I usually always walk past the Lyndar stand as I know their paint is very highly priced :laugh:
However I may have to bite the bullet and pickup a tin of that - I've heard great things about 2k paint, and I'm tired of constantly refinishing fuel tanks!

I understand that they're a good brand too, so I'm excited to give them a go :thumbsup:
Do you think that there would be any reaction between the metalcast paint and the 2k clear?

Jack
 
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