2hp to 3hp conversion

#1
Does anybody know what it would take to put a 3 horsepower crankshaft with an inch and 3/4 stroke into a two horsepower motor with a inch and 1/2 stroke, is it the connecting rod the Piston or is the whole block different
 

cl350rr

Well-Known Member
#4
Thanks, you will need the crankshaft and the connecting rod with oil slinger from the 3hp.

2hp rod bolts are inline with the length of the rod, 3hp are at an angle. When you install the longer crank, the angle allows clearance to install the rod bolts. The oil slinger is angled on the 3hp also for clearance:

Briggs Rods.png
 
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#9
If I could suggest, before you go searching for aftermarket power, put a ball bearing on the output end of the crankshaft. That will free up a considerable amount of the power you are losing to friction.
If I could suggest, before you go searching for aftermarket power, put a ball bearing on the output end of the crankshaft. That will free up a considerable amount of the power you are losing to friction.
That make good sense.
 

cl350rr

Well-Known Member
#15
By installing a longer stroke crank, you have already increased compression.
Do you know if balancing or a flywheel is of any concern
The early Briggs 2, 2.5, 3, and 3.5hp all share the same block, head, piston, valves, etc. all you are doing is changing the parts to make it a 3hp out of a 2hp, if you are running reasonable rpm, balancing should not be needed. If you intend to run this thing wide open without a governor you need to look into a billet rod and flywheel at a minimum. At that point, why not just buy a 5hp?
 
#16
If I could suggest, before you go searching for aftermarket power, put a ball bearing on the output end of the crankshaft. That will free up a considerable amount of the power you are losing to friction.
And with just two posts, @cl350rr educates us all on building a stroker from spare, out-of-business parts. Rock on, man!
 
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#18
By installing a longer stroke crank, you have already increased compression.

The early Briggs 2, 2.5, 3, and 3.5hp all share the same block, head, piston, valves, etc. all you are doing is changing the parts to make it a 3hp out of a 2hp, if you are running reasonable rpm, balancing should not be needed. If you intend to run this thing wide open without a governor you need to look into a billet rod and flywheel at a minimum. At that point, why not just buy a 5hp?
I hear you on the five horse, no I wanted to keep it within reason so it wasn't just a time bomb waiting to happen, the five horsepower machines seem to have much more available parts at least from what I have seen, I have not seen a lot of Billet rods and or things like a camshaft for these smaller Motors are they still available
 
#20
By installing a longer stroke crank, you have already increased compression.

The early Briggs 2, 2.5, 3, and 3.5hp all share the same block, head, piston, valves, etc. all you are doing is changing the parts to make it a 3hp out of a 2hp, if you are running reasonable rpm, balancing should not be needed. If you intend to run this thing wide open without a governor you need to look into a billet rod and flywheel at a minimum. At that point, why not just buy a 5hp?
I've noticed that the 3.5 horsepower has a different chamber is this going to be advantageous on a two horsepower motor, possibly fly cutting it to get the clinch back down or maybe that is a mistake on a small motors
 
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