I've noticed that the 3.5 horsepower has a different chamber is this going to be advantageous on a two horsepower motor, possibly fly cutting it to get the cwinch back down or maybe that is a mistake on a small motors
When you say sump cover I'm assuming your meaning the side cover, can the factory one be machined for a roller bearing or ball bearing or is there not enough material there
I've noticed that the 3.5 horsepower has a different chamber is this going to be advantageous on a two horsepower motor, possibly fly cutting it to get the clinch back down or maybe that is a mistake on a small motors
Your time and effort would be better spend reshaping the intake port to eliminate the dead pockets in the corners and do a slight round-over of the cylinder wall where the combustion chamber part of the head meets the deck.
Gutless until modified still underpowered after modifications.
You have options for a flywheel/springs then a carb/header besides a ball bearing pto that is it. Everything else will be done hackjack backwoods style. I welded a cam that sounded great.
Yes , @Bluecamaro typical mini bike application, there's a keyway in the pto shaft , and one on the clutch. Line up the keyways, and put in a 5/16th x whatever steel key.
Then the clutch floats on the drive shaft , held in place via the keyways , and key.
Who are you? Why don't you introduce yourself to everyone, since you're dead set on asking questions, with zero "thanks" or recognition of the answers you are given.
I'm jason, I live in eastern Washington, but getting ready to move to dayton tennessee in a month or two. Found an old 2hp in the barn, sent it to my buddy for his little boys mini bike and trying to help him get it running
The best way I've found is to fish a solid wire (or stranded) to the set spring of the points/condenser arrangement behind the flywheel, with another wire grounded to the block at the engine mount. Put a switch in between. You will hear others say a kill wire attaches at the coil; that never worked for me. And if you have one of those single-wire handlebar switches, the assembly itself grounds at the bar - which always spooked me out.
The best way I've found is to fish a solid wire (or stranded) to the set spring of the points/condenser arrangement behind the flywheel, with another wire grounded to the block at the engine mount. Put a switch in between. You will hear others say a kill wire attaches at the coil; that never worked for me. And if you have one of those single-wire handlebar switches, the assembly itself grounds at the bar - which always spooked me out.
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