340 salsbury series

cfh

Well-Known Member
#81
I have seen some reports of the Juggernaut breaking the main bell cover. that is, a lot of horsepower spins off the bell cover D marks, and then the driver just doesn't work any more. anybody seen that?

I have 3 of the juggernauts running on bikes. Everything else is comet or comet clone. I only use the Juggernaut on particular bikes that i just can't get a Comet to 'tune' right. If i can't get a stock comet or stock clone to work out of the box on a bike, i go juggernaut. Because after you buy the aluminum weights and springs to tune a comet, you're basically at the cost of a juggernaut. And from what i have found, aluminum weights and different springs are no guarantee you'll like the comet anyway. The jug, out of the box, has not disappointed yet...
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#82
Glad to see you’re liking the juggernaut with the 7” driven. That is exactly what I have set up right now. Juggernaut with 7” driven - stock driven spring set at hole #1 with 10:59 gearing, and 14.5” tires.

Going to test it out this weekend. What does your gearing/tire size/rpm/top speed look like? Also I am running the 203591 comet belt what belt are you running? I will report back with results as well. View attachment 263740 View attachment 263741
on my bike i'm running a custom made 72 aluminum rear 41/40 pitch sprocket on a 14in rear rim/tire. thats coming off a 9 tooth with the 7in driven. belt is a custom belt that beltpalace.com makes for the 30 series and thats a real big plus for me. not a real big fan on the 30 series belt design with one side being flat. so with this belt it has alot better grip then anything on the market. i get virtually no slip out of this thing.
for speed/ratio.....etc. the only thing i can really tell you and this is only base on one day of real hard driving with this bike. i and some friends got together and two of the bikes i road with where rupp bikes. much lighter then my bike start with. they both had juggernauters on them with a 7inch driven and very small rear sprockets. engines they had where a built 225 tilly and a built 212. in about a 1/8+mile plus both bikes would pull me about 20ft ahead of me and there average speed was about 55mph at 7000 rpm's. for me i was going about 50 mph at close to 8000 rpm's with my Big rear sprocket. i really didn't make my bike for speed. more for trail riding.
custom made cover to fit over the 7inch driven and still look stock appearing.

custom made 72tt aluminum sprocket

here is what the belt looks like. I have been running it for awhile now. pictures shows it setup with my old 30 series driver.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#83
I have seen some reports of the Juggernaut breaking the main bell cover. that is, a lot of horsepower spins off the bell cover D marks, and then the driver just doesn't work any more. anybody seen that?

I have 3 of the juggernauts running on bikes. Everything else is comet or comet clone. I only use the Juggernaut on particular bikes that i just can't get a Comet to 'tune' right. If i can't get a stock comet or stock clone to work out of the box on a bike, i go juggernaut. Because after you buy the aluminum weights and springs to tune a comet, you're basically at the cost of a juggernaut. And from what i have found, aluminum weights and different springs are no guarantee you'll like the comet anyway. The jug, out of the box, has not disappointed yet...
like to see some pictures clay of them breaking. I did post some pictures of the steel tab's cracking. I can safely say in time something will break on this unit. my motor is strong enough that it will break something and my buddys rupp bikes will for sure with there built clone motors and I will keep in touch with them on this through the summer. only thing i'm not sure how much I will ride this bike this summer. i'm really pushing get some other things done first.
couple big pluses I like with the unit that you just can't get with a comet 30 series. first is the acceleration you get out of the hole. I was running a 3000 stall speed springs on my 30 series just keep the unit from locking up so quick and making the engine fall on it's face. with the juggernaut nothing wants to hang up or get hot and make the parts inconsistent. with the roller design it allows the engine to rev much better and quicker without the parts locking up like the 30 series likes to after they get hot. even with the stall engagement on the jugg unit little bit lower then the 30 series I had, it still works very good for my application. not sure how much of a big difference you would feel on a stock governor motor? but on a built motor,day and night difference.
 

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
#84
well I finally got some good testing over the weekend with my new juggernaut and it works good. put this way,i will never buy another comet 30 series again. with the roller spring setup like the 340 salsbury the engagement is always spot on and without the overdrive it wants to pull much harder. making the rpm's accelerate faster and when going at cruise speed you don't get the converter lock up in high gear like the 30 wants too.
so at cruise speed you can hit the accelerater and the bike will just rocket and I mean NOW. the other thing I am running is beltpalaces belt. another well worth money spent.
now you may not get the same feeling if your engine and bike is not setup correct or your just running a stock/very mild motor. end the day it's still going to be day and night difference. for my bike it was a heavy big frame 73 thunderbolt with only a 195cc ohh-motor that would pull a easy 7000+ rpm's and a large rear sprocket to help it do it. the only down fall was I had to modify the cover tab's longer so the unit would not rub against the cover(as you can see in the picture). I will post more info on my engine built under my ohh engine thread.
Mine is rubbing the cover, too on 1 bike with the stock backplate. On another bike, with a stock backplate it isn't. It seems like the mounting holes in 1 backplate are more to the front compared to the other backplate.
Last time I looked for the price it was $89 again, now it is back to $119...
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#85
Glad to see you’re liking the juggernaut with the 7” driven. That is exactly what I have set up right now. Juggernaut with 7” driven - stock driven spring set at hole #1 with 10:59 gearing, and 14.5” tires.

Going to test it out this weekend. What does your gearing/tire size/rpm/top speed look like? Also I am running the 203591 comet belt what belt are you running? I will report back with results as well. View attachment 263740 View attachment 263741
I did get another day last week to play around with it. that day was very hot. say close to 90 degrees. it seem to struggle little on the low end take off. almost like it was to much fuel for it. was it weather related? if I controlled the throttle when getting into it hard the bike would pull right up to it's max rpm's. if I hammered on the throttle the bike would stumble little bit and go(to much fuel) I move the needle rod and did not change anything. as I played around with it I determined the bike was not staying in low gear and trying to go high gear at low speeds. so the next time I play with it am going to change the driven spring hole into the lowest setting and go from there. think the spring might be going weak or just the heat had something to do with it.
 

Latent

Active Member
#86
I did get another day last week to play around with it. that day was very hot. say close to 90 degrees. it seem to struggle little on the low end take off. almost like it was to much fuel for it. was it weather related? if I controlled the throttle when getting into it hard the bike would pull right up to it's max rpm's. if I hammered on the throttle the bike would stumble little bit and go(to much fuel) I move the needle rod and did not change anything. as I played around with it I determined the bike was not staying in low gear and trying to go high gear at low speeds. so the next time I play with it am going to change the driven spring hole into the lowest setting and go from there. think the spring might be going weak or just the heat had something to do with it.
I did test my set up last weekend, and was very impressed with the results. I had 10/59 gearing 5.9 ratio with 14.5 tires. I was at 120 main jet with a 17.5 pilot jet needle in middle setting at 9150 elevation at about 75 degrees. Bike idles at 1400-1500rpm's, and was very wheelie sensitive (could probably pull a wheelie at 10-15 mph). However, when I would slam the throttle from 0-100 really quick it would sputter (I adjusted the needle clip down 1 position which is richer, and still have to test if this helped). This bike is set up great for trail riding, but only happened to reach a top speed of 35mph at 7200 rpms while going uphill at a 45 degree incline on a dirt road. I probably wasn't topped out, but riding on a mountain that was the longest/safest stretch I had to test lol. When I returned from that trip I lowered the needle clip 1 position richer, and changed the jackshaft gear from a 10t to a 12t to get more top end. Went from a 5.9 gear ratio to about a 4.9 gear ratio. I'll test this out next weekend, and report back with results/top speed as well. All in all very impressed with the juggernaut driver, and the 7" tav 2 driven unit. I just need to find a better gear ratio for a bit more top speed, and the easiest way for me to do this is by changing the tav 2 jackshaft gears. If 12t isn't good for what I'm looking for I'll keep going up till I get the perfect gearing.

Delray - My bike would also struggle on the low end take off, but after I adjusted the fuel/air mixture it fixed that issue for me. You need to get your engine to the lowest idle possible, and then turn the fuel/air screw until your rpms are the highest then make it a 1/4-1/2 turn richer from that position. Which way did you move the needle up or down? What does your bike idle at? What elevation are you at, and what jets are you running? I'm running stock driven spring which is grey colored at #1 hole right now. I think even with a smaller rear sprocket or larger tav jackshaft gear would help keep most of your bottom end torque, and increase your top end. You might be a bit lean??
8BDB0DDB-0F82-42C4-9FB7-AEB62F0A34EB.jpeg BE62D5DF-5A7E-4D2E-9B60-9EC7D91E1C62.jpeg 8698B12E-0C0F-4A68-8ED0-E30463E21984.jpeg
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#87
I did test my set up last weekend, and was very impressed with the results. I had 10/59 gearing 5.9 ratio with 14.5 tires. I was at 120 main jet with a 17.5 pilot jet needle in middle setting at 9150 elevation at about 75 degrees. Bike idles at 1400-1500rpm's, and was very wheelie sensitive (could probably pull a wheelie at 10-15 mph). However, when I would slam the throttle from 0-100 really quick it would sputter (I adjusted the needle clip down 1 position which is richer, and still have to test if this helped). This bike is set up great for trail riding, but only happened to reach a top speed of 35mph at 7200 rpms while going uphill at a 45 degree incline on a dirt road. I probably wasn't topped out, but riding on a mountain that was the longest/safest stretch I had to test lol. When I returned from that trip I lowered the needle clip 1 position richer, and changed the jackshaft gear from a 10t to a 12t to get more top end. Went from a 5.9 gear ratio to about a 4.9 gear ratio. I'll test this out next weekend, and report back with results/top speed as well. All in all very impressed with the juggernaut driver, and the 7" tav 2 driven unit. I just need to find a better gear ratio for a bit more top speed, and the easiest way for me to do this is by changing the tav 2 jackshaft gears. If 12t isn't good for what I'm looking for I'll keep going up till I get the perfect gearing.

Delray - My bike would also struggle on the low end take off, but after I adjusted the fuel/air mixture it fixed that issue for me. You need to get your engine to the lowest idle possible, and then turn the fuel/air screw until your rpms are the highest then make it a 1/4-1/2 turn richer from that position. Which way did you move the needle up or down? What does your bike idle at? What elevation are you at, and what jets are you running? I'm running stock driven spring which is grey colored at #1 hole right now. I think even with a smaller rear sprocket or larger tav jackshaft gear would help keep most of your bottom end torque, and increase your top end. You might be a bit lean??
View attachment 264378 View attachment 264379 View attachment 264380
settings are all good. it was just little odd that one day it ran perfect(70 degrees) and then the next time it was 90 degrees and that's when the problem occurred when I notes the driven wasn't staying in low gear making the bike/carb load up little. need to adjust the spring or replace it. really think the heat got to it that day after driving it for 20+ mins then it acted up.
 

Latent

Active Member
#88
settings are all good. it was just little odd that one day it ran perfect(70 degrees) and then the next time it was 90 degrees and that's when the problem occurred when I notes the driven wasn't staying in low gear making the bike/carb load up little. need to adjust the spring or replace it. really think the heat got to it that day after driving it for 20+ mins then it acted up.
Are you using a stock driven spring or a yellow driven spring?
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#90
I did get another day last week to play around with it. that day was very hot. say close to 90 degrees. it seem to struggle little on the low end take off. almost like it was to much fuel for it. was it weather related? if I controlled the throttle when getting into it hard the bike would pull right up to it's max rpm's. if I hammered on the throttle the bike would stumble little bit and go(to much fuel) I move the needle rod and did not change anything. as I played around with it I determined the bike was not staying in low gear and trying to go high gear at low speeds. so the next time I play with it am going to change the driven spring hole into the lowest setting and go from there. think the spring might be going weak or just the heat had something to do with it.
ok guys I got little time this weekend/sunday and Monday to get down to the bottom of this small problem I was experiencing when it was hot out (90 degrees)
first thing I felt I was having a problem with, was the driven maybe not staying in low gear. but before taking it off and adjusting the spring hole. I decided to take the bike back out in low 70's degrees weather and it seem to run just fine.
I still felt it wouldn't hurt to adjust the driven so it stays in low gear just little bit longer. this would help the the engine wind up quicker into it's power band.
So off with the driven. with my bike it makes it little easier to take both off at the same time. well when I went to grab the driver(juggernaut) the dam thing was rocking back and forth. on a salsbury they call it the ramp plate or for most people they may call it a cover...dome ..etc this is the part the rollers travel on.
made a small video showing how bad it got in just couple hrs of hard riding. also remember this unit came straight out of the box from gopowersports on to the bike. so everything was still torque to factory spec's
damage juggernaut.jpg
juggernaut assy.jpg
well nobody going to replace it for free or guarantee it. so off to the welder
welded jugg.jpg

is use couple small flat round grinding stones(not showed) to get the welds flattened down.

almost there.........
repair grind.jpg
(crap you see on the outer unit is just plastic from the cover.)

when ahead and installed little bit of blue Loctite and re-snugged it down with my impact.
unit.jpg
this thing was tight with no movement at all. I also went ahead and adjust the rear driven spring in the middle hole and then fire up the bike and took it for a spin and it seem to do very well. like the spring where it is now. motor really wants to come on strong and never feels like it going to lay down on me. just wants to go to the moon....lol
my opinion there is only two things that I know that can damage this part like this. one it was not assembled correct from factory (part did not move when I installed it) or my ohh motor got some power to it. does pull good up to 7000+rpms with no problems. I really hate to see what one of my clone motors would do to it in time.
this problem also can happen on a 30 series where the outer shell starts to move back and forth, but that too only happens over a long time or under a lot of power or just not tighten down correct.
juggernaut is still not as good as a real 340 jr dragster unit....but it works better then a 30 series all day.
 

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
#91
ok guys I got little time this weekend/sunday and Monday to get down to the bottom of this small problem I was experiencing when it was hot out (90 degrees)
first thing I felt I was having a problem with, was the driven maybe not staying in low gear. but before taking it off and adjusting the spring hole. I decided to take the bike back out in low 70's degrees weather and it seem to run just fine.
I still felt it wouldn't hurt to adjust the driven so it stays in low gear just little bit longer. this would help the the engine wind up quicker into it's power band.
So off with the driven. with my bike it makes it little easier to take both off at the same time. well when I went to grab the driver(juggernaut) the dam thing was rocking back and forth. on a salsbury they call it the ramp plate or for most people they may call it a cover...dome ..etc this is the part the rollers travel on.
made a small video showing how bad it got in just couple hrs of hard riding. also remember this unit came straight out of the box from gopowersports on to the bike. so everything was still torque to factory spec's
View attachment 264462
View attachment 264463
well nobody going to replace it for free or guarantee it. so off to the welder
View attachment 264464

is use couple small flat round grinding stones(not showed) to get the welds flattened down.

almost there.........
View attachment 264465
(crap you see on the outer unit is just plastic from the cover.)

when ahead and installed little bit of blue Loctite and re-snugged it down with my impact.
View attachment 264466
this thing was tight with no movement at all. I also went ahead and adjust the rear driven spring in the middle hole and then fire up the bike and took it for a spin and it seem to do very well. like the spring where it is now. motor really wants to come on strong and never feels like it going to lay down on me. just wants to go to the moon....lol
my opinion there is only two things that I know that can damage this part like this. one it was not assembled correct from factory (part did not move when I installed it) or my ohh motor got some power to it. does pull good up to 7000+rpms with no problems. I really hate to see what one of my clone motors would do to it in time.
this problem also can happen on a 30 series where the outer shell starts to move back and forth, but that too only happens over a long time or under a lot of power or just not tighten down correct.
juggernaut is still not as good as a real 340 jr dragster unit....but it works better then a 30 series all day.
Wow, that's a lot of play after just some hours.
To me it looks like your "ramp plate" needs to be "further down the shaft". I could be wrong as I just see the pictures and not the real thing. But it seems that it it isn't/wasn't covering the flat spots of the shaft by it's (ramp plate) full thickness. Or, flat spots of the shaft need to be higher...
Again, I could be wrong by judging on the pictures.
All the engines power is transferred by these 2 small flat spots. Something has got to give and it will...
And I'm pretty sure it, or parts for it, is manufactured in China, by this company. There's a "JII" mark on the aluminium sheave.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#92
yes, if you can see that. it looks like the ramp plate was trying to walk over the fix plate stem. like I said before it was tight from the factory,but was it correctly mounted and torque down? something wong maybe..(china built) motor does put out good power. give you kind of a ideal how much. I am running a 142.5 jet in a 22mm china/mikuni. yes the casting letters also look to be the same found on some clone engines/heads.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#93
well she is done until I can make a new part out of something stronger. today I was doing some hard hot laps with my driver that running my flat track bike and I was running my thunderbolt with the juggernaut.
juggernaut1.jpg
juggernaut 2.jpg
 

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
#94
well she is done until I can make a new part out of something stronger. today I was doing some hard hot laps with my driver that running my flat track bike and I was running my thunderbolt with the juggernaut.
View attachment 264681
View attachment 264682
Gopowersports: "No longer do you have to sacrifice your engines power or rpm capabilities! With this new Super 30 Series Driver, you can take full advantage of a high HP high RPM small block engine (196/212/225)."
You: "Hold my beer."
That part needs to be made out of Domex steel. If it isn't already.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#95
Gopowersports: "No longer do you have to sacrifice your engines power or rpm capabilities! With this new Super 30 Series Driver, you can take full advantage of a high HP high RPM small block engine (196/212/225)."
You: "Hold my beer."
That part needs to be made out of Domex steel. If it isn't already.
maybe it broke because I have only a 195cc motor....lol with the bike being geared low and 7inch driven,heavy bike and a trick out ohh motor i think it puts alot of stress on the unit. when it did work...man it would come on strong. if i didn't lean into intially the front would float little.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#97
they need to laser-cut the steel and then form the bends and then harden the metal with the correct type of steel and then maybe it will hold up better. if you look in my pictures you can clearly see metal is just stamp/punch out and form and plated. sure material they use is not the best type of metal(china made). type of riding I was doing with it the other day was going into corners and coming out just hammering the gas and at that point the unit/pulley had to be traveling in as the belt was rising to the top. making it real hard on the metal tabs.
now if I was just drag racing it from a dead stop and go... maybe then it would be ok.(factory stall springs)
now with a 4000 stall springs and very strong motor,that might be a different story.
 
#99
Hello Brian, one by one the super 30 is failing. This is mine. Me and your pal David Wulf and others have been jawing about TCs this week on another list. I don't think i'll get another one . have a big day, thanks again you and ole4 and others helped me with my first engine build many moons ago.
1600619635916.png 1600619695566.png
 
Top