Charles S Thanks. I completely agree. I am greedy though and would like to find a right hand hydraulic perch that is compatible with the micro switch that I currently have installed to operate my brake light. Thanks again.
Plenty of scooter/dirt bike units with brake light switch available for cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Ma...keywords=pit+bike+front+brake+master+cylinder
https://www.amazon.com/XLJOY-Handle...keywords=pit+bike+front+brake+master+cylinder
Did you buy a hydraulic conversion kit or did you piece your system together? The piston bore size of the master cylinder will affect brake action; smaller = more power, longer lever travel; larger = less power, shorter lever travel. As in gearing, there is a ratio involved; with hydraulic disc brakes, it's master cylinder piston dia to caliper piston dia (obviously, multiple pistons and/or multiple calipers figure into more complex systems). Critical for motorcycles, cars, trucks; not critical for a minibike, IMO, as long as it stops the bike. Ideally, IMO, the brake should be powerful enough to require no more than two fingers. When I rode a street bike, I used my index and middle finger on the brake lever, keeping my ring and pinky fingers on the grip. Two fingers are plenty on most modern motorcycle front disc brakes and keeping two fingers on the grip gives you better control of the brake and better control of the bike in general. I intend to do a hydraulic conversion myself; I will piece a system together since the kits have left hand master cylinders. I want to be able to use two finger braking so I will probably use a two piston caliper.
Too bad APT Group killed Motovox to put all of their resources into Motoped. Motovox may have been producing some really cool minibikes by now had they continued developing new products. Those suspension forks on your bike are very hard to find, now; last ones I saw for sale were on eBay for $225, and that was a while ago.
I may be wrong, but, the only purpose I see for the PMR jackshaft is when your desired ratio can not be achieved with two sprockets. For example, you have a small engine with insufficient power but your rear sprocket is as large as you can run without grounding it and your clutch sprocket is the smallest available. Since the jackshaft cost as much as a 212 Predator, the jackshaft doesn't make sense for that scenario, IMO; just swap the engine. The only other scenario I can imagine would be if you were going for more top speed and your clutch sprocket is the largest available and the rear sprocket is the smallest available. I've seen 19t clutch sprockets and 53t (#35) split wheel sprockets (a combination that would result in a 2.789:1 ratio) so I can't imagine that being a need. I may be missing something; I'm sure someone will inform me if there are other purposes for the jackshaft.
