3D Motorsports manual racing clutch?

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#1
I'm looking for any input or experience about 3D Motorsports manual racing clutch? Looks like it might be the ticket for what I am trying to do, but am a little concerned that if you shock load the crank with a 6000 RPM drop at the line, that the engine might not take it too long and snap the stub off the crank? I don't suspect these engines were ever intended for a stern fast loading... Looks like a great product, but if it will destroy my motor, I may be barking up the wrong tree. Hopefully I can get a better response than I got about 3 disc racing clutches...
[video=youtube_share;HBxhAfgWqfA]https://youtu.be/HBxhAfgWqfA [/video]
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#3
Daniel Coop , you will damage the clutch before you will snap the crankshaft off.
i'm curious what are you going to use that engine for at 6000 rpm's at the line for take off. or i should say why so high of a rpm for take off...:scooter:
 

trinik7597

Active Member
#4
No disc clutches set stall @6000 but you hit the nail on the head all that energy has to go somewhere and snapping a crank would be my concern as well .. Not to mention being played on your back dropping it at even say 3800/4200 rpm
Then comes the question are the discs going to hold up .. This is a renamed downs brothers clutch and they don't have a great track record with handling power .. But I can tell you repeated high rpms are definitely going to damage something with out a doubt
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#5
6000RPM might be an exaggeration, but from what I have seen, you need to build up RPM's before engaging the clutch and it appears to be quite violent. I have seen a couple videos of guys seemingly reving quite high before dumping the clutch. [MENTION=339]delray[/MENTION], do you have experience with them?
 
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delray

Well-Known Member
#6
daniel coop,so the question your asking more of a what if a person was to dump the clutch at 6000.
you also stated this early
Looks like it might be the ticket for what I am trying to do, but am a little concerned that if you shock load the crank with a 6000 RPM drop
back to my original question.
(i'm curious what are you going to use that engine for at 6000 rpm's at the line for take off)


from the research i have seen on that clutch it has a dual disc setup and set of short springs to apply pressure when engaged. my opinion thats not going to be enough to lock it up and snap the crank off. more then likely your going to burn the clutch up until it engages. also i would think by now if that was possible snap it off ? someone would of done it.
look at some of these guys with gokarts and revving there motors high and dumping the clutch. thats alot of dead weight to move and all they are doing is slipping the clutch and taking off.
i do like the 3D clutch and i think it would work good for some applications. for most people that buy it and install it on a minibike, it's more like a novelty thing for them.
 
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moetrout

Active Member
#7
Nice find Daniel! Good price....I think a little less than the Viper clutch you posted about. I am also looking for a high rev clutch. To answer the question of why, that's simple, drag racing! Not sure I am going to drop a couple hundred on a clutch this year. I still need to get my motor built up properly the way I want it. I'll be curious which clutch you decide to use.
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#8
I am looking for the best clutch or drive system for drag racing (street). As I have no personal experience with torque converters, I have been leaning towards a clutch, but only if it can beat my Noram Premier Stinger in performance. As I previously stated, 6k might be an exaggeration but if you watch some of the videos, like at the beginning of the one I posted some of the mini bikes are reving quite high before engaging the clutch, and on the heavier karts it does seem to slip a little but on the mini's, it appears to hook and book! I had seen these clutches previously but forgot about them until I saw a pic of a couple of drag bikes posted by Trinik in a thread about a drag frame. 404 Not Found
The red Nitro 50 has that particular clutch and I remember seeing that Mini Choppers SoCal sells them. I then looked them up (3D Motorsports) and saw a few videos and inquired about it here...
 

Davis

Well-Known Member
#10
David wulf told me he uses the Hilliard flame and they hold up to his motors and I doubt your putting down the hp he is.
 
#11
Reading Predator reviews on Harbor Freight, there were several reports of crankshafts breaking with much gentler use than what Daniel is talking about, so I would say it's a legitimate concern. If you want to take a look, save time by sorting reviews by lowest rated.
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#12
Thanks Hater Davis, but I would put my Premier Stinger up against a Hilliard's Flame clutch any day. I said I was looking for the best option, not a similar or lesser one. I'm only looking for knowledge or experience with this clutch.
 
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delray

Well-Known Member
#13
Daniel Coop, nice thing about the 3D clutch for your application and engines your building the clutch can handle it. depending on gearing,distance your running and what kind of power band your motor would have. you can play around with how much stall speed works the best with just the touch of your hands and a tach mounted on the bike. none of this back and fourth changing spring rates to see what works the best for launching the bike....:thumbsup:
i know you mentioned earlier about having not much experience in torque converters and all. from some of my research on TQ's i notes some of guys are going to junior dragster setups and man do they look like they work good,but they are also BIG DOLLAR $$$ units:doah:
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#14
Agreed. I have been looking at those, like the Polar... Polar Clutch
just way out of my price range, and I probably have no business even considering something like that without a little experience with a more standard torque converter.
I am curious about the Comet and GTC 340 series, Go Kart Torque Converters | 340 Series but have already spoken with a fellow forum member and resident expert on that subject. I will definitely be using his help, suggestion and expertise if I do go that route.
 

moetrout

Active Member
#15
What I like about the 3d clutch is the manual part. It appears to work just like a normal motorcycle clutch. The stall speed is essentially where ever you pop that clutch lever. It seems well suited for drag racing. I would think a good tachometer would be key in getting consistent times on the track so you drop the hammer at the same point every time.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#16
Daniel Coop, i have been in contact with GTC this last summer and they are still UNDER DEVELOPMENT with reproducing the 340. hopefully they will have it ready this winter. couple of my friends want this real bad.
this last summer i spent weekends trying different things with a 20 and 30 series comets and then i dug up this old 340 i purchase years ago that came with ton of different parts. try make a story real short. the 340 unit is day to night campared to a comet 20 or 30 series.
if thats something in the furture you want to go with? i don't think you will be disappointed. this last summer i ran a built one off tecumseh ohv motor with a 340 on it and was smoking built hondas and clone engines on a 125ft clay track. you think it was the tecumseh motor doing all the work. 340 really helps. i wish you where little closer to wisconsin. you could come next summer and run your bike on clay track. you would really enjoy it. totally different then pavement.
it was a lot fun learning how to make a bike move fast on clay surface this last summer.........:scooter:
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#17
What I like about the 3d clutch is the manual part. It appears to work just like a normal motorcycle clutch. The stall speed is essentially where ever you pop that clutch lever. It seems well suited for drag racing. I would think a good tachometer would be key in getting consistent times on the track so you drop the hammer at the same point every time.
For sure... But are the friction discs replaceable and readily available? Is the 3D clutch serviceable or are you stuck replacing the $100 clutch unit when it's no longer performing as it should? One main issue I have with it is the brake/clutch lever and the fact that the bike I would like to run it on has dual master cylinders for front and rear brakes already. Not sure how I would get around that? More questions than answers at this point...
 
#19
Daniel if you want to launch off the line then it's gotta be a belt drive . I've got a comet 20 setup on a heavy flat track bike that I'll run against most anyone in 200' or less .
Also listen to Delray he's the expert on the comet 340 . Iam in the process of doing a drag bike and I'll be using a Salsbury 330 setup .
You can also talk with ole4 on this site he know the ins and outs of the Salsbury 330 .
 
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