64 Briggs Powered Schwinn

#1
Might as well toss this up here! :) I've wanted to do this since I was a boy in the mid sixties. Now that I am past the bailing wire stage, thought I'd give it a go.

Schwinn mid size frame, stretched the drop out to fit a Moped 16" wheel. I wanted the drum brake, and standard sprocket. Mounted 20X2.125 BMX tires on it. Front end is the Monark you will find on Ebay for about $200. The seller is easy to deal with. The threaded neck he sent was too short, so he's sending another one. I machined some bronze bushings in the rockers, and will do the remaining rockers later. Front rim is used, but nice BMX 20" and sports the same BMX tire.

Engine is a 64 Briggs, one of two engines @superflea gave me last year. For a year, I thought it was a 5HP, but it's a 4, which are harder to find. Replaced every component in it, but the crank. Had to machine the crank end on the mag size because it was too long for the recoil ball clutch deal, and I had to machine that clutch deal as well, because the recoil drive hit it, and machined the recoil drive, so now it all fits together and rolls smooth. Need a couple more parts and I'll fire it up and finish sissifying it.

Seat post is cut. It will stay that way, probably a saddle type going on it. Down tube is cut, and I will reverse the piece I cut off and weld it to the down tube for a reverse curve to handle the weight of the motor plate in front. This will sport a jack shaft, but not sure yet on drive system.

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#7
Finished up the fork bushings out of bronze. The supplied bushings have a brass insert and plastic washers. No thanks. They work, but.... Also took a photo of the Briggs for the record with most of the new parts boxes. Hoping to get a lecture later on how to build one, since this engine took three days.

The 1964 crankshaft in this one, extended well beyond the "Clutch Assy, Rewind Starter." Both of the listed (date coded) parts are superceded to 399671. The upshot of that was: The crankshaft (Magneto side shaft for this piece) was too long, so when threading the clutch assy on to the shaft to retain the flywheel, the crankshaft pushes out the plug and oil felt on the back end of the clutch assy. Also, the 1964 rewind starter pulley gear rubs against the starter clutch rubber hard enough to prevent rewind. And finally, messing with this required me to remove and replace that black cover that goes over the clutch assy.

Fix: Machine down backside (against flywheel) portion of clutch, machine the cover mating surface to make it fit better, machine the inside of the clutch assy so I could use that slickery plastic washers without binding, turned down the crankshaft, and turned down the recoil engagement part on the rewind pulley. I've never seen this before, and I can't find any part number anamolies that would explain it, but I suspect it is that superceded thing that causes the problems. Anyway, it works like a champ now, very smooth, big rope on it, lubed up, happy.

1964 BS 4 HP.jpg Fork Bushings.jpg
 
#10
Trimmed and flipped the 1" Schwinn down tube to get clearance for the engine. Near the rear wheel, I have tubing connecting slugs ready to machine once the 3/4" chromoly arrives. Side "A" is machined to fit- I will run two 3/4" chromoly tubes from the rear to the front, in to a horizontal 1" chromoly cut from the seat post will serve as a transition point, and foot pegs. Transition point: The down tube, and two bottom frame tubes. (Fishmouthed) The engine plate, or whatever mounting mechanism will go on top of, or between those 3/4" tubes.

Down Tube Tacked.jpg
 
#12
I'm learning how to TIG weld on this project. I'll leave it there. HAHA! If you are going to do this kind of work, you will want a chiller. FYI, I am using .045 ER70S-2 and 1/16 Tungstin blue at about 70 amps. At that amperage, I can just mash the pedal, and it's fairly close. The chromoly wall is something very close to that .07 anyway.

Welded on Flexo Jackshaft mounts that Hent sells. I trimmed them up to match the contours of the bicycle frame- as that tubing is not straight there. Mocked it up with a used chain and sprockets, (420) and it looks good. Next, I have to figure out the clutch and drive on the primary. It is a longer run that normal. @Jim Donovan makes a cool belt clutch that would look at home here. I just don't know about slip. I am not making this bike to go fast, obviously. Oh, and it is LIGHT. About 1/3 the weight of a vintage mini. I am digging that. Also elongate the motor plate slots to clear the seat post with the air filter housing.

Jack Shaft Mounted.jpg
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#13
That's going to be really cool when you're finished. Are you planning on running a tube between the seat post and lower frame? The belt clutch would look excellent on that setup for sure.
 
#14
That's going to be really cool when you're finished. Are you planning on running a tube between the seat post and lower frame? The belt clutch would look excellent on that setup for sure.
Excellent question. At this point, I am not. The top is very strong, and I'll do some more work on the bottom of the frame with another transverse piece at the end of the engine plate.

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#17
Awesome Dave it looks great with the proportions. Interesting that a 20"bmx tire fits a 16" moped wheel I didnt realize that. You could use a banana seat for more room aswell
Thanks! I did think about doing a "stingray" with this 26" frame, but I wanted to stick with what I envisioned 60 years ago. However, my next project will be a Stingray, and I am going to be lacing Grimeca (Rupp) rear hub to an S2 (Schwinn)Stingray rim. It will have a slick, banana seat, and probably springer front, and maybe krate front end.

That looks like fun...what kind of riding conditions do you envision?
Flat, slow, paved, downhill both ways. :) (Kinda like me)
 
#18
A bit of progress. The carb rebuild has been on going. Chinese carb was a fail. Original carb had an air leak at the plate shaft, so I found one of those, and replaced it. Tedious job, fishing for the butterfly. I have to let the clear cure. The last time I cleared it, I thought I didn't give it enough time to cure, and maybe I didn't, but today I went and looked at my HOK paint instructions, and it's 2:1:1 mix, not the 8:2:2 I did the other day.

Yeah, I could have gone "cooler" with the seat. I like this one for comfort. Bars are repop Schwinn, a couple inches taller. #415 JS sprocket and chain on the way, as well as Comet's longest belt. Cut threads in the JS, frame is welded up, except engine plate pending belt check.

New Bars.jpg
 
#19
Dave,
Your builds are some of the most interesting to watch on this forum, and this one is no exception! I believe that I can speak for (many) others when I say we all wait to see what unique things that you come up with next- we are watching this build with popcorn in hand...
Michael
 
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