'69 Rupp Roadster Torrington Bearing?
- Thread starter robgmn
- Start date
- Tags bearing roadster rupp torrington
Hello, In first pic.
Jackshaft is correct, large sprocket in background looks correct along with the small sprocket in the middle. Std. for 69 Rupp it would have 12 teeth. Not sure what the other parts are for. What I see missing in the pic. is the one way bearing collar. The collar slips over the jackshaft for the first gear to ride on. (See my picture I posted). It's #3 in the pics.
Second picture (front parts) should be a 13 tooth clutch drum. Internals are correct. (back parts) looks like a max torque 12 tooth clutch. 1969's actually had a 13 tooth clutch.
Also.. You should have a fibre washer that would go between 1st gear and the second gear drum as well as one on the outside of the first gear and support bearing. If you go to Blackwidow motorsports they have a 1969 parts breakdown for reference.
Side note on the secondary clutch internal... If you on plan replacing the shoes, don't discard the take-offs. I am in the process of rebuilding sets of them. Just because they are very hard to come by. My shoe sets will be re-plated, new shoes installed with adhesive and rivets just like originals. About one week out on posting a pic of those.
Keep us posted, Regards, Joe51
Jackshaft is correct, large sprocket in background looks correct along with the small sprocket in the middle. Std. for 69 Rupp it would have 12 teeth. Not sure what the other parts are for. What I see missing in the pic. is the one way bearing collar. The collar slips over the jackshaft for the first gear to ride on. (See my picture I posted). It's #3 in the pics.
Second picture (front parts) should be a 13 tooth clutch drum. Internals are correct. (back parts) looks like a max torque 12 tooth clutch. 1969's actually had a 13 tooth clutch.
Also.. You should have a fibre washer that would go between 1st gear and the second gear drum as well as one on the outside of the first gear and support bearing. If you go to Blackwidow motorsports they have a 1969 parts breakdown for reference.
Side note on the secondary clutch internal... If you on plan replacing the shoes, don't discard the take-offs. I am in the process of rebuilding sets of them. Just because they are very hard to come by. My shoe sets will be re-plated, new shoes installed with adhesive and rivets just like originals. About one week out on posting a pic of those.
Keep us posted, Regards, Joe51
These parts all came direct from the bike as I bought it in 1982 (which means it COULD have been modified or repaired).
I'll have to dig for that collar and fibre washer.
I assume the item in back of the pic is the chain roller/tensioner and the silver tube is not even a part of it. I put it there just because it fits over the jackshaft and I didn't know what else it might be for (probably fell into the parts box).
Should I take it from your post that the secondary clutch is unobtainium and the only way to have one is to rebuild the one I have?
Also, since I already have the double-sprocket engine clutch bell, is there an aftermarket plate assembly that could be used with it?
I know it sounds like I'm trying to do this on the cheap, and I am.
This bike is worth a lot and I recognize that, but I can't spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars to get it running (i.e. I'll forsake the 2-speed setup if it's gonna cost me a couple hundred just to build it, I'm putting a predator engine on it instead of spending $$$.$$ to rebuild the Tecumseh, parts are getting paint instead of chrome, etc).
I'll have to dig for that collar and fibre washer.
I assume the item in back of the pic is the chain roller/tensioner and the silver tube is not even a part of it. I put it there just because it fits over the jackshaft and I didn't know what else it might be for (probably fell into the parts box).
Should I take it from your post that the secondary clutch is unobtainium and the only way to have one is to rebuild the one I have?
Also, since I already have the double-sprocket engine clutch bell, is there an aftermarket plate assembly that could be used with it?
I know it sounds like I'm trying to do this on the cheap, and I am.
This bike is worth a lot and I recognize that, but I can't spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars to get it running (i.e. I'll forsake the 2-speed setup if it's gonna cost me a couple hundred just to build it, I'm putting a predator engine on it instead of spending $$$.$$ to rebuild the Tecumseh, parts are getting paint instead of chrome, etc).
Hello, regarding your double sprocket clutch bell..The internals for that bell are next to it in the pics. So, other than being a bit dirty it looks complete.
Regarding the 2 speed jackshaft stuff... not sure how long it would hold up or if parts are stuck. I am not sure on what parts can be found. I always keep my eyes open for the parts for these. I have found them from time to time if folks want to let go of them. Then comes the price.
If your interested in keeping the bike a 2 speed set up with that main engine clutch.. I have a very slightly used Comet 2 speed set up I would trade for the Rupp jackshaft set up. PM me if interested.
Regards,
Joe
Regarding the 2 speed jackshaft stuff... not sure how long it would hold up or if parts are stuck. I am not sure on what parts can be found. I always keep my eyes open for the parts for these. I have found them from time to time if folks want to let go of them. Then comes the price.
If your interested in keeping the bike a 2 speed set up with that main engine clutch.. I have a very slightly used Comet 2 speed set up I would trade for the Rupp jackshaft set up. PM me if interested.
Regards,
Joe
Hoping someone sees this so I don't have to selfishly start a new thread about my project:
The bearing is in the sprocket. After a tense few hours of searching my garage, I found the adapter sleeve that allows the bearing to work on the shaft.
It's all together, but I have somehow wound up with two sprockets for the chain to the wheel.
Both sprockets have rust pitting on half. Both have holes for the roll pins to secure them to the shaft. Both fit on the shaft perfectly. One is 12 tooth. One is 16 tooth.
Is it possible that this jackshaft was made with both sprockets on it so that it could be used for the 3.5 OR the 5 HP engines?
It's the only guess I have that makes any sense of why I have two final drive sprockets.
This is the only minibike I've ever owned so the sprocket had to have been on it when I took it apart and boxed up all of the parts.
Any guesses?
The bearing is in the sprocket. After a tense few hours of searching my garage, I found the adapter sleeve that allows the bearing to work on the shaft.
It's all together, but I have somehow wound up with two sprockets for the chain to the wheel.
Both sprockets have rust pitting on half. Both have holes for the roll pins to secure them to the shaft. Both fit on the shaft perfectly. One is 12 tooth. One is 16 tooth.
Is it possible that this jackshaft was made with both sprockets on it so that it could be used for the 3.5 OR the 5 HP engines?
It's the only guess I have that makes any sense of why I have two final drive sprockets.
This is the only minibike I've ever owned so the sprocket had to have been on it when I took it apart and boxed up all of the parts.
Any guesses?
Yep, flipped the one-way sprocket over today. I bought the bike used in 1983 (or so).
Anything could have happened 'tween 1969 and 1983, but it's very interesting that they both fit the shaft perfectly.
So, the 16 tooth sprocket should be used and the 12 tooth one put in storage with the original motor?
Anything could have happened 'tween 1969 and 1983, but it's very interesting that they both fit the shaft perfectly.
So, the 16 tooth sprocket should be used and the 12 tooth one put in storage with the original motor?
12 tooth it is!
Today we got the front brake connected, installed the jackshaft, mocked up the motor mounting location (gonna have to make some hefty spacer blocks due to the 45 degree orientation of the cylinder), modified the air intake to clear the frame, added a bushing to the chain tensioner, hooked up the throttle, and test-ran the motor.
'Might have it cruising by next weekend (as long as I can skip out the honeydo list for a week...)
Oh, and Duplicolor sucks for durability.
Look at it cross-eyed and it's scratched to the primer.
Today we got the front brake connected, installed the jackshaft, mocked up the motor mounting location (gonna have to make some hefty spacer blocks due to the 45 degree orientation of the cylinder), modified the air intake to clear the frame, added a bushing to the chain tensioner, hooked up the throttle, and test-ran the motor.
'Might have it cruising by next weekend (as long as I can skip out the honeydo list for a week...)
Oh, and Duplicolor sucks for durability.
Look at it cross-eyed and it's scratched to the primer.
Little by little, my son and I are getting all the parts together and cleaning up those that can be reused for our low-budget restoration.
When we disassembled it, the sprocket with the one-way bearing was seized to the jackshaft and got torn up.
Of course, the lip of the bearing where the part number is is gone (I can read "Patent" and "Torrington" and se the directional arrow just fine, however
Can anyone provide the part number for that bearing?
When we disassembled it, the sprocket with the one-way bearing was seized to the jackshaft and got torn up.
Of course, the lip of the bearing where the part number is is gone (I can read "Patent" and "Torrington" and se the directional arrow just fine, however
Can anyone provide the part number for that bearing?
