Anti-Grenade thread: billet rod and flywheel install checklist.....
One last (maybe) question:
The ARC rod install instructions call for use of assembly lube and 30W oil for the rod bolts. How critical is it to use those exact items?
I don't have either of those lying around, but I do have several weights of clean motor oil for my car (10W30 and maybe some 10W40). Is it ok to use that?
The ARC rod install instructions call for use of assembly lube and 30W oil for the rod bolts. How critical is it to use those exact items?
I don't have either of those lying around, but I do have several weights of clean motor oil for my car (10W30 and maybe some 10W40). Is it ok to use that?
So I installed the ARC rod today. :smile: 2 things I bought which I didn't have before were assembly lube and the 12-pt 1/4" socket (surprisingly unless I lost it, that was the only "common" socket that my mechanics tool set didn't have; I had down to 5/16" 12-pt.....).
One thing I noticed was this: I could not at all fit the 3/8" drive (in-lb) torque wrench with the 1/4" 12-pt socket onto the TOP rod bolt at any place in the crank rotation!! (Top one being the one that is most easily obscured by the crank counterweights...) I was able to fit the torque wrench onto the bottom rod bolt no problemo....
So the procedure I used to alternately torque them was this (and I'm hoping it was ok): I started at 60 in-lb on the bottom bolt and used the Tq wrench. I then switched the 1/4" socket to the smaller ratchet that was able to fit into the top bolt area and then "felt" the tightness of the bottom rod bolt. I then used the smaller ratchet/socket to tighten the top bolt up to that "feeling".... I did this alternately all the way to 170 in-lb....
I hope I didn't mess up majorly....
One thing I noticed was this: I could not at all fit the 3/8" drive (in-lb) torque wrench with the 1/4" 12-pt socket onto the TOP rod bolt at any place in the crank rotation!! (Top one being the one that is most easily obscured by the crank counterweights...) I was able to fit the torque wrench onto the bottom rod bolt no problemo....
So the procedure I used to alternately torque them was this (and I'm hoping it was ok): I started at 60 in-lb on the bottom bolt and used the Tq wrench. I then switched the 1/4" socket to the smaller ratchet that was able to fit into the top bolt area and then "felt" the tightness of the bottom rod bolt. I then used the smaller ratchet/socket to tighten the top bolt up to that "feeling".... I did this alternately all the way to 170 in-lb....
I hope I didn't mess up majorly....
When was the last time your arm was calibrated? joke
You may want to get a 1/4" torque wrench that has an "inch pounds"(in. lbs.). Most 3/8" torque wrenches are foot pounds. The rod torqued to 170 ft pounds might not work! If you do any more engines the 1/4" torque wrench will pay for itself.
I don't think I would want to run an engine without the rod properly torqued. Doing it by feel leaves too many variables for me! I know its cold in TN, you have a Harbor Freight close?
You may want to get a 1/4" torque wrench that has an "inch pounds"(in. lbs.). Most 3/8" torque wrenches are foot pounds. The rod torqued to 170 ft pounds might not work! If you do any more engines the 1/4" torque wrench will pay for itself.
I don't think I would want to run an engine without the rod properly torqued. Doing it by feel leaves too many variables for me! I know its cold in TN, you have a Harbor Freight close?
I didn't check this....:blink:
Am I going to run into any issues? I didn't check this because I figured that the ARC came with actual bearings (the stock rod was just a machined surface that rode on the crank pin) with oil channels and that that automatically had to be way better than the stock setup...
Not sure if you saw my other thread but I measured no higher than 6000 rpm no load using the inductive pickup tach. While riding it a few times a few days ago up and down the street, I didn't notice rpms much higher than 4500-5000. I was a bit surprised too because unless there was a lot of wheel slip gong on (which there could have been since the road I was on was slushy but had some bare pavement strips in it), but it seemed like I don't accelerate as fast as I used to with this engine OEM stock.... I mean I notice the top speed difference, but the acceleration seems to lag.... Maybe I need to wait for drier ground and pavement to verify these observations....
Am I going to run into any issues? I didn't check this because I figured that the ARC came with actual bearings (the stock rod was just a machined surface that rode on the crank pin) with oil channels and that that automatically had to be way better than the stock setup...
Not sure if you saw my other thread but I measured no higher than 6000 rpm no load using the inductive pickup tach. While riding it a few times a few days ago up and down the street, I didn't notice rpms much higher than 4500-5000. I was a bit surprised too because unless there was a lot of wheel slip gong on (which there could have been since the road I was on was slushy but had some bare pavement strips in it), but it seemed like I don't accelerate as fast as I used to with this engine OEM stock.... I mean I notice the top speed difference, but the acceleration seems to lag.... Maybe I need to wait for drier ground and pavement to verify these observations....
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Bearing Clearances - Engine Builder Magazine
This may help you understand more on the subject
Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
This may help you understand more on the subject
Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
Unless there is a machining error or defective bearings which can happen but not very often, it is usually the crank. In my case the crank was in spec but at the small end of spec, and I had almost .004 clearance. I went ahead and built that motor and it so far has a lot of hours of recreational driving no racing or ultra high revs.