Anybody have a Cub Cadet lawn tractor? I have a stupid question ❓

#21

Karen, Went to TS this morning and they had their lawn tractors put into a conex box for the winter. But I did some digging online and you are not missing any bolts from what I see. The part number for your seat is Cub Cadet 757-05009B . When I run that number though Ebay I find some used ones with pics of the underside. Any of them that have bolts only have the one. There is one listing that has the seat only and not the base and I can see clearly that those inserts are installed into the seat in a manner that they wont come out, or do not need the bolt to secure them.
I studied a little more and realized that the base assembles to the seat by sliding it in from the front of the seat. -If you look at your pic you can see how the "T" openings at the front of the base allows the inserts through.. I think that bolt is installed to keep the steel seat base from sliding too far forward, or coming off completely. If you were to have to replace the seat, that bolt must be removed in order to slide the old seat off and the new seat on.. See the listings below

Listing with seat only showing the inserts clearly:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2268674871...U0PtN1Y0Vrh5Tzl8tK1gVJx29zwyulRoaAmMCEALw_wcB

Listing with complete seat and base with one bolt;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3870921809...gzLrkiDzek7zaPmVEOEuxPB87i0399S4aAqhYEALw_wcB

Also note that the Partstree breakdown only shows one bolt, a 3/8-16 by 7/8" long.
 
#22

Thank you Steve. It just seems weird to me. A friend that has a 2014 cub cadet, their seat is exactly like mine. I guess it's just the way they built it. It should be interesting to see what I'm getting from cub cadet. I was talking to someone in India. Lol. They said they are sending me the bolts. Lol.
 
#29

I think a couple bolts are missing but not showing up on a parts diagram.
Missing on mine as well. Bought it in 2017. Runs like a champ. Only 2 issues, actually 3. It always bumped right off without much cranking. after 8ish years if it sat for a long period of time I couldn't get it started without spraying a shot of ether in it. Turns out that was all 100% my ignorance. I assumed it had an auto choke as easy as it always cranked up but it turns out there's a manual choke I was unaware of. Speed control all the way up is choke. Cranks right up. After submarining in some ditches for years the starter solenoid gave it up. Replaced that for $11. and was happy. but 3 weeks later the same problem. That turns out to be the blade engage or backup switch whatever it's called. If I disengage the blade it cranks right up. Haven't bothered fixing it. Been a good little tractor so far.
 
#30

So far so good. I have around 25 hours on it so far. I was a little late with the first oil change but I think everything is good.
 

Gatecrasher

Well-Known Member
#31

As long as you properly maintain it you should be OK. They all require maintenance though. It doesn't matter what brand or how expensive it is. They all need PM to keep them in tip-top shape. The Kohler engines are good. I've had a few and never had any problems with them.

I've had a 54" Toro My Ride zero-turn for 4 years now and it is great. I have a big yard to mow too. It has a 24 HP Kohler engine. The only thing I had a problem with were the front wheels. They come from the factory with bronze bushings for wheel bearings in them. They both wore out even though I kept them greased through the grease fittings. A guy on eBay was selling ball bearing upgrade kits for them so I bought a set and no more problems since. I don't know why Toro cheaped-out on the bearings because the ball-bearing upgrade didn't cost much and is a lot better?
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#32

So far so good. I have around 25 hours on it so far. I was a little late with the first oil change but I think everything is good.
Yeah, keep good oil in it and you'll be fine. I had an Ariens (Husquavarna) 46" hydrostatic with the big single lunger Kohler 20 or was it 21? They had a bad reputation but I got 10-12 years of Michigan mowing. Mine had a notorious shaft seal seep that would not leave any trace on the shed spot, leaked on the deck and collected dirt. Knew I was losing oil between changes but didn't smoke so...keep cutting. Crankshaft saddle just left the building one day but I wasn't too upset, gave enough service for the price I paid, got $400.00 for it as-is from a guy that had a larger twin Kohler to drop it in. Replaced it with a larger John Deere, larger deck, 25hp twin that I love but occasionally I see the oil spot from where it blew it's heart to pieces on the sidewalk and remember fondly my little orange tractor.
 
#33

not that I wanted too....but I just bought another one....The one I bought when this thread started went up north and the new one stayed home. The new one has a manual choke and no hour meter. 40 bucks later it has an hour meter and I like the manual choke.

The one up north will get two drain plugs in the rear axel to keep it alive longer. Google Tuff Torq K46 oil change
 

Gatecrasher

Well-Known Member
#36

I give mine a complete tune-up at the end of each season so it will be ready to go the following spring.
  • Oil change & lube (grease fittings)
  • New spark plug, fuel filter, air filter
  • New blades & belt (if needed) - I usually end-up changing blades during the year too
  • A thorough inspection of the blade spindles and everything else.
  • Complete pressure-wash (makes it look like new)
  • Put it under the optional Toro factory cover and store for the winter
I just bought a nicer new battery for it last month and over the years added the optional Toro front LED headlights, seat cover, foot pad, plus aftermarket LED tail lights & front floodlights, eBay drop trailer hitch, and Harbor Freight winch mounting bracket & winch on the back. I also got the Harbor Freight trailer for it.

Last weekend my neighbor's ATV broke down and siezed up to the point we couldn't push it up the ramps he had for his trailer so I brought the Toro to the front of his trailer and winched the ATV up onto it.
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#37

25-26 year old MTD 42” 16.5 HP Briggs OHV. I’m still running the original spark plug (AFAIK), just clean and check the gap every now and then. The "new spark plug every year" is insane.

Oil change every 25 hours which amounts to a summer season, plus chassis lube
Clean and re-oil the sponge pre-filter @25 hrs, the inner paper accordion/metal mesh filter will last forever but I have changed it 'for fun'
No belts in the 10+ years I have used it (tempting fate!)
New blades as needed (changed to high lift from mulching blades; noticeable difference)
No pressure wash but it does get a leafblower blow-off after every use. Occasional suds and soap
Underside of deck gets scraped of grass clods with putty knife
Indoor garage storage (this is key for absolute longevity)

The engine is getting tired. Sounds like the beginning of some piston slap, rod knock or just “tired engine noises". Has anyone here ever re-engined a mower?

Great thread, Karen. Hows’ the mower?
 
#38

So far the Cub Cadet is great. Like riding a Cadillac after the MTD.
So it was my 2009 MTD, 42" deck that met its faith. I always took care of everything. When I was mowing with it at the end of last year, it started sounding like it was running out of gas. When I turned it off, it wouldn't start. I embarrassed myself when I looked at the air cleaner. So, new carb and air cleaner. New battery. Still nothing. I had a professional come out to the house. He checked everything. I thought maybe the starter. He pulled the spark plug and it cranked over, totally crazy. He took off the valve cover and the rocker was just sitting there. The little cap came off. The rod was perfectly straight. So he gapped the valves and put it back together. Fired right up. Then 3 days later when I went to mow, exactly the same thing. That's when I said f@ck it and bought a new tractor. I estimated it had 1000 hours.
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#40

25-26 year old MTD 42” 16.5 HP Briggs OHV.
The engine is getting tired. Sounds like the beginning of some piston slap, rod knock or just “tired engine noises". Has anyone here ever re-engined a mower?
I have an old Yardman 42” hydro (by MTD) of similar vintage with a Briggs 18.5hp OHV single that I got for $40 several years ago. Had to put in a new drive belt, bolt the engine back down, and replace the muffler (had one on the pile) that the loose engine had shaken apart. Changed the oil, sharpened the blades, and proceeded to mow with it for a few years. Fast-forward to this year, and the engine has gotten to the point that it barely wants to run. I suspected a worn camshaft lobe (common issue), but found a free Wheel Horse nearby with a 16.5hp OHV Briggs and a bad hydro. Figured swapping the engines would be better than splitting the cases on my current high-hour motor to swap cams, so I swapped the engines. Pretty straight-forward, except I had to cut the pulley off the Wheel Horse, as it was completely stuck on there. Following that, I put the old engine on the Wheel Horse and sold it off for $75. I think that makes my mower free now, lol. Still going strong! I do store it outside, but have it under the eves and always cover it. It is important to blow all the grass off the top of the deck when you use it, as it will collect moisture and rot the deck out.
 

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