Anyone have issues with the new off shore Tecumseh carbs??

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#1
I'm freshening up several Tec big blocks that all need carbs, if it wasn't for the fact these guys are asking upwards of a $100 for an oem so the more affordable off shore carbs are looking more fee-sable.... So the question is who has used them and any pros or cons as to how they work will be greatly appreciated.....
 
#2
I bought 3 at 12 each to get one to work on a trail bronc...I just paid 70 for an oem to put on my hm80....I’d rather pay the $ for oem personally....
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#5
I did a whole thread on these carbs for tecumseh motors. check that out. for hs40/hs50 i found the least expensive variety to be the best in terms of performance and choke location. but yes they do have gasket issues with today's gas. i have bought probably 15 to 20 of these carbs. had problems with 2 or 3 of them. the best advice i can offer is this... don't run gas with methanol (if possible, though frankly i run it!) And don't take the float bowl off unless the carb is drained of said gas/methanol first (otherwise you'll have float bowl gasket issues, as that gasket will expand due to the alcohol.)
cfh
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#6
I did a whole thread on these carbs for tecumseh motors. check that out. for hs40/hs50 i found the least expensive variety to be the best in terms of performance and choke location. but yes they do have gasket issues with today's gas. i have bought probably 15 to 20 of these carbs. had problems with 2 or 3 of them. the best advice i can offer is this... don't run gas with methanol (if possible, though frankly i run it!) And don't take the float bowl off unless the carb is drained of said gas/methanol first (otherwise you'll have float bowl gasket issues, as that gasket will expand due to the alcohol.)

But yes the $8 carb #632230 / #632272 off ebay seem to be the best of the group of them, and it's $8 or $9.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-tecumseh-hs40-carb-s.155806/

cfh
 
#7
Yes Randi, the clone carbs are dicey. Specifically, the needles on the floats do not seal well. If they do, they fail far sooner than the OEM carbs do.

I've had a couple of them with defective casting, one so bad that one of the float pivot axle holes was missing. There was no casting there, and the float was hanging my one end of the pivot axle.

Also, there is something going on with the pilot circuit. Air leak? I don't know. Most of them want to run with the pilot needle seated, or nearly seated. In all cases, take the bowl off and ensure the float is adjusted, and that it wasn't torqued so tight that the phenolic gasket on the main jet body wasn't ripped and distorted.

Note: I am not referring to engines I put on a shelf, but engines I placed in to immediate service on bikes and a kart. One of my karts, a Fox 2100 sporting an H35 just failed it's second $10 carb. What happens is that out of the blue when grandkids are riding it, it starts over filling the bowl, and pissing fuel out of the vent. So far, this has been due to failure of the float needle which seems to be some thin rubber coating over the tip. I will need to mitigate this for the third time before they come out again this summer. I plan to use a OEM carb, unless I can find more OEM parts in my carb box.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#8
The bores in them (what they currently sell for the H50-60) are a lot larger than what H50-70 came with in the 70's, not sure if they went larger in the later years or not as I am just going by whats here in the garage. Thats the choke down point in the center, not at the throttle and choke plates. the main jet needle I found to allow more fuel to flow in as well over what they had in the OG tec's, cant remember if the needle was shaped differently.

I cant help with how they run on an H/medium frame engine though, I only got one for an HS and I swapped the throttle and choke shafts out. I found going to a smaller drilled out main needle off a smaller carb helped a little with the almost zero adjust ability, but it still seemed to have that inherent dead zone between the transition from idle to main circuit fuel feed when accelerating the throttle plate that I find with the ones they made for the small frame engines that have an H35/HS40 sized bore (they left the HS50 and H50-70 bore size out :mad:). Again, that was on an HS, so its not an apples to apples comparison. They have the same terrible float needle and seat that the smaller ones have so you'll probably get the same issues long term like Dave mentioned happens with them.
 
#9
I look for cheap rebuild-able cores on Ebay and pick them up.. Then I buy the $13 NOS kits and do it that way.. just need to make sure the shafts and bores aren't worn out.. and when I say cheap I mean $10-$15 cores.. You can find them if you look.. I keep a few around in the carb drawer... Dave and Marcus are correct.. Iffy quality and rubber needle/seats that come apart to me that equals gas on the floor in a heated garage...:eek: It's happened...
 
#10
Ok just received my “oem” Tecumseh carb....straight from the Czech republic....in a Tecumseh original service part box....I assume it’s a new carb built by motor jikov group...anyone have any experience with these? Seems well built and heavy...Tecumseh motors is all that’s on the bottom of bowl....
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#12
The original (or china copy) Tecumseh carbs are not all that great from the start. These motors/carbs were more or less designed to run at a fixed rpm (unlike a mini bike), so flat spots and other weirdness is not hard to find. as a solution to this, i have found using an inexpensive slide carb to be a good answer. They are like $12 (or $20 with a air filter!) And they look pretty cool installed too. The throttle travel is greater, so it has a better feel from a riders point of view. And just operates better. Also gives a nice power boast, especially at the low and top ends.

Again i refer you to the thread where i talk about all these different carbs and what i found to work best...
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-tecumseh-hs40-carb-s.155806/
cfh

 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#15
Thanks everyone for your input on these carbs...after all the discussion as to the issues with these off shore carbs I decided to do a little Frankenstein rebuild on some oem Tec carbs.. I had already purchased a few of the clone carbs since they are extremely cheap but hadn't used them yet...I pulled the throttle and choke shafts with butterflys out of the clone carbs which fit perfect in the oem carbs..I also used the float since the tab on the factory brass floats were worn...I also used the idle screw and the spring off the air screw, the rest of the parts like needles, fuel inlet seal etc I used from Tecumseh rebuild kits....now I have oem carb with some off shore moving parts so we'll see how these perform when I get them on the engines..
 
#16
Hey, one thing I didn't mention here is that one of the corrective actions I took was to start using only alcohol-free fuel. What was happening, is that the deterioration of the components seemed to be generated by what little condensation I was getting, and this was occurring over time-in a mostly very hot, very dry environment. The pure gasoline seems to have helped so far. Anyway, good to see you posting.
 
#17
Good thinking bud...I have an extra hm80-hm100 carb if you need/want it...let me know...I found several Tecumseh kits for the bigger carbs....have a few of those too if you need...not much luck with the smaller ones yet on my end...not sure the difference...Most likely operator error....good luck
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#18
Good thinking bud...I have an extra hm80-hm100 carb if you need/want it...let me know...I found several Tecumseh kits for the bigger carbs....have a few of those too if you need...not much luck with the smaller ones yet on my end...not sure the difference...Most likely operator error....good luck
Thanks Dave, I may take you up on that..

well after robbing a few of these off shore copy carbs for throttle and choke parts I was always curious as to what in a Tec carb sounds like a ball bearing rolling around when you twist a carb around.... so I cut one of the copy carbs apart and there is a little brass rod on the air mixture circuit that is parallel to the main jet... I'm not sure what it's purpose is but as a general rule growing up if that is stuck and doesn't move the carb is shot???.... I took a few more of these copy carbs and shook them around and no noise so I'm assuming they never put the rods in the carbs which could be a part of the reason they dont adjust well and run correctly..... also on a few of these carbs they also didn't come with the Welch plug in the float bowl area...... so from now on I'll just buy them for parts as it's cheaper ($10) for a complete carb than to just buy the throttle and choke shafts alone...
 
#19
well after robbing a few of these off shore copy carbs for throttle and choke parts I was always curious as to what in a Tec carb sounds like a ball bearing rolling around when you twist a carb around.... so I cut one of the copy carbs apart and there is a little brass rod on the air mixture circuit that is parallel to the main jet... I'm not sure what it's purpose is but as a general rule growing up if that is stuck and doesn't move the carb is shot???.... I took a few more of these copy carbs and shook them around and no noise so I'm assuming they never put the rods in the carbs which could be a part of the reason they dont adjust well and run correctly..... also on a few of these carbs they also didn't come with the Welch plug in the float bowl area...... so from now on I'll just buy them for parts as it's cheaper ($10) for a complete carb than to just buy the throttle and choke shafts alone...
A couple of months ago, I did the exact same thing. I posted photos somewhere here. From what I gather, that rod slides back and forth with vacuum to either bring the pilot jet circuit on line, or block it. There is a vacuum passage that it lives in.
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#20
A couple of months ago, I did the exact same thing. I posted photos somewhere here. From what I gather, that rod slides back and forth with vacuum to either bring the pilot jet circuit on line, or block it. There is a vacuum passage that it lives in.
That would make sense Dave....I guess the chinese figure it's an optional part lol..
 
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