Axle locator wear

#1
I saw this when I first tore down the bike and now that I have it back together, I'd like to fix it. One of the rear axle tabs, on my Trail Horse mini, has gone egg shaped, (out of round). Since the axle itself has been ground about 1/4 of the way through, in the process, I have to assume the axle rusted to the wheel bearings and the whole thing spun. The whole thing, axle tab and axle now amount to about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in chain jumping axle travel. The new axle helps and reduces the amount of vertical travel, but it isn't a real fix. I am thinking of welding a Grade 8 washer on the outside of the tab. That would certainly get it back into round. Has anyone had any similar experience? How did you handle it? axle2.jpg
axle3.jpg

axle4.jpg
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#4
I’m going to say it depends on what your goal is. If you’re working with a classic mini and want a restored machine, I think welding the hole back close to round and delicately grinding it the rest of the way circular would be the best way, though not the least labor intensive. But then again, welding a washer also works, provided the washer is thick enough and you locate it properly. It’s not going to look original, but it would be less labor intensive. I’d save that for a machine that doesn’t have any collector value (unlike a Trail Horse). Worst case, it could always be ground off and fixed the other way if you wanted. I’m not recommending either way, but each works!
 
#5
Labor intensive is going to be the key. I don't weld, so whatever I do will include the need for a good machine shop, or very experienced welder. To me, weld it closed, or weld on a washer, is more about the precision of the hole, at the end of the task. That is, the alignment of the axle.
Thanks for the responses. They are about what I expected.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#6
Labor intensive is going to be the key. I don't weld, so whatever I do will include the need for a good machine shop, or very experienced welder. To me, weld it closed, or weld on a washer, is more about the precision of the hole, at the end of the task. That is, the alignment of the axle.
Thanks for the responses. They are about what I expected.
Easy fix @ a good welding shop. ;)
 

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#7
Easy fix @ a good welding shop. ;)
Welders never drill a hole in the wrong place, why? The first thing you learn is how to weld them shut and "move" them:cool:. A mid to large weld shop will have an " iron worker". This machine is a hole punch for steel, a welder can weld the punched steel back into holes if needed. I also used the punched pieces to make thread plates on fuel tanks. Have the new axle shaft with the frame when the welder does the repair so they can fit it properly. Go to 4:50 for holes.
 
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#8
I have done it both ways but yes the better way would be to add weld and file it round again with a burr bit would work best. If you dont weld you can make a tab with the hole that wraps around the bottom the trick would be making the tight bend on a thick plate I would use a sharp angle in a bench vice heat it up and hammer it over. Kinda janky but It would work to keep the axle where you want it. Or you could make it big enough to put a few bolts in it but then youll have the extra holes in the frame.
 
#9
I’ve had a lot of sheet metal fabrication experience. Personally, I would cut out a square all the way to that 90* bend. Weld in some flat stock and drill a new hole. If you decide to fill in the hole, the best way to do that is to clamp a chunk of thick copper bar stock over the hole, fill it with weld, grind and re-drill. Because copper is non-ferrous, the weld won’t stick to it well. Usually, the copper will just fall off when you unclamp it. If it doesn’t, let it cool and give it a whack.
 
#10
We have a supply of brass round bar in different sizes and lengths and a Miller Mig. I spend a lot of time cleaning the areas of contamination and locating the rod where the axle holes should be. Clamp it in place and weld around it on both inside and out on both sides of the bike. Brass or copper work equally well. Then flap disc to look like new.
Works on triple tree/fork wear too.
The Wear points on the axle bolt are welded so as not to cause any warping.
Then it gets set-up on the lathe with a tool post grinder to bring it back into spec.
 
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