B.A.T. is rocking this week

creia

creia

#63
#63
That has already been tried but does not work well. If the engine mounting plate is slotted (most are) it still allows the engine to move resulting in a loose chain.
Michael
 
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Sunnyknoll

Active Member
#64
#64
creia said:
That has already been tried but does not work well. If the engine mounting plate is slotted (most are) it still allows the engine to move resulting in a loose chain.
Michael
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Yeah, I see what you mean. I don't know.........guess there's just something about a hard metal vibrating motor, bolted to a hard metal plate, that doesn't seem quite right.
 
minibikin'

minibikin'

Sho-nuff
#65
#65
Sunnyknoll said:
Yeah, I see what you mean. I don't know.........guess there's just something about a hard metal vibrating motor, bolted to a hard metal plate, that doesn't seem quite right.
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It can and has been done well with engine limiters. Takes a little thinking outside of the box but it's not difficult. I'm not sure of the longevety of the rubber yet though...
 
PatrickCraik

PatrickCraik

Well-Known Member
#66
#66
I74 said:
Hell,, why stop there ….
Might as well go for a GT-500 or GT-40 … ;)

Personally,, I'd take an ''unmolested'' - 70' AAR 'cuda,, in any color,, as long as it's the ''rare/special order'' B5 blue. lol :D
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Love to have an AAR, I’m a current model Mustang guy but those 340 Cudas,especially the AAR,were way cooler than any Mustang of that era. The 340 would trounce any Ford 385 or 335 series engines as well
 
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Tom S.

Tom S.

#67
#67
creia said:
That has already been tried but does not work well. If the engine mounting plate is slotted (most are) it still allows the engine to move resulting in a loose chain.
Michael
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Every one of my minis has a nut with a set screw welded to the trailing edge of the engine plate. This keeps the engine from sliding back in the slots, and allows for precise and lasting chain adjustment. Easy peasey. My buddy suggested this.

The frame layout on my Fimco racer blocks one of the engine mounts. With only three bolts holding the engine to the plate, that set screw still keeps it in place nicely.

 
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S

Sunnyknoll

Active Member
#68
#68
Tom S. said:
Every one of my minis has a nut with a set screw welded to the trailing edge of the engine plate. This keeps the engine from sliding back in the slots, and allows for precise and lasting chain adjustment. Easy peasey. My buddy suggested this.

The frame layout on my Fimco racer blocks one of the engine mounts. With only three bolts holding the engine to the plate, that set screw still keeps it in place nicely.

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Great idea Tom.
 
I74

I74

Well-Known Member
#70
#70
Sunnyknoll said:
Check out the rubber isolation mounting washers on the motors and frame. Might not be a bad idea to incorporate these on a mini??

View attachment 284717 View attachment 284717
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That just gave me a killer idea..

Use Gorilla crystal clear semi flexible tape, & apply to the plate over the ''whole'' engine mating surface,, in a couple ''or so'' layers.
Then you can also trim it with a knife,, if you have parts of it sticking out once the engine is mounted.

You definitely want to prep the plate good though,, with alcohol pads or something.
That tape actually has a bit of adhesion/curing factor to it after awhile also,, & is ''very'' stout.
It's also pretty thick,, & in a couple or so layers,,, I think it would help with a little bit of dampening.

Think I' am going to try that my next build . ;)

I
 
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FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#72
#72
Sunnyknoll said:
Check out the rubber isolation mounting washers on the motors and frame. Might not be a bad idea to incorporate these on a mini??
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It's not what you think it is. The engine is mounted solid to the engine mount bracket. The engine mount bracket is mounted solid to the rear axle with bearings and to the frame with the isolators. Look closely and you can see the configuration.
 
S

Sunnyknoll

Active Member
#73
#73
Now I'm not so sure. You could be right. Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly. Are those motors mounted to a "mounting bracket" that is then isolated from the frame? I don't know. Guess we'd need a few more pics to know for sure.
 
S

Sunnyknoll

Active Member
#75
#75
Charles S said:
There are around 50 pictures...
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I looked again. Those motors appear to be totally isolated from the frame, as well as the axle. If I'm seeing this correctly, those mounts that are attached to the axle seem to be isolated from the frame. At least that's what the underside shots seem to show. That's a helluva kart, that's for sure.
 
Mark G

Mark G

#78
#78
Tom S. said:
Enough of the overpriced karts already. Check this out, and don't forget to watch the video!

No Reserve: 1962 Polaris Sno-Traveler K-95
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Talk about a twenty footer. The paint on that thing is terrible, looks like the whole machine was painted right over rust with a brush. Even the drivetrain. Chain, bearings, sprockets, etc:eek:

It's surprising 'cause the last few Sno Runners that seller had were VERY clean.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#80
#80
Sunnyknoll said:
Check out the rubber isolation mounting washers on the motors and frame. Might not be a bad idea to incorporate these on a mini??
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The rubber grommets were used exclusively to my knowledge on the Rupp Chaparral. I restored one a few years ago. The entire rear section from the seat back is a separate frame, and it houses the engines and axle. They were not there to mitigate engine vibration, but to isolate the rear section of the kart from the front section. They wore quickly, and were short lived.
 
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