Baja Hawg Ty Torque Converter showed up.......

Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#1
#1
The Torque Converter showed up this afternoon.
I remove the Jack-Shaft drive and did a test fit of the cast aluminum mounting plate on the engine and bike's frame. I found on my bike all I needed to modify was the cast aluminum needed to be notched at the widest portion of the frame. The Jack-Shaft support bracket did need to be moved out of the way two inches.
The mounting holes to the engine block had to be open up .005" to allow the holes to line up.
Other than cutting the plastic TC cover and shortening the chain guard 1/2", no other cutting needed to be done.
The engine heat shield was left in place and used. The bearing support casting arms were not cut,nor was the rear oil fill plug. All cleared the casting with no problems.
The only problem is the drive chain is too short by one link! Aarg!
The engine cannot be moved rearward any more as the valve cover is touching the seat support as it is.
I did have to add one 1/8" spacer to the driver clutch to align the drive belt to the driven pulley.
Now I need to I.D the chain size. I have a lot of #40 chain but it is wider than the chain on the bike now. It is NOT a #35 chain.
I will need to buy a 1/2 link or find a full link in order to ride the bike.
TC1.jpg
The black ink are the four slightly enlarged holes for mounting to the engine block. You can see the notch I milled into the casting to clear the bike's frame.
TC2.jpg

Bracket that needed to be bent back two inches
TC4.jpg
The TC installed. Chain guard and TC cover cut to fit.
TC6.jpg TC7.jpg
Heat shield still in place, it was slightly bent inward a fraction of an inch.
 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#2
#2
I just remembered I own a Chain Braker somewhere in my garage. I could just take a link out of the Clutch drive chain and put it on the driven chain.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#3
#3
Your chain would be #41 or #420, the two have the same pitch, roller diameter and width, they are interchangeable. The difference is that the #420 has larger diameter pins and heavier side plates and is thus much stronger than #41. With the type of riding you do, a new #420 chain might be a wise investment. A half-link would be your "weakest link" due to the bends in the plates. Due to engine shake/vibration, 1/2" or so clearance between the rocker cover and the frame would be a good thing.

chainspecs2.jpg

The "heat shield" is actually an air duct that directs cooling air, from the blower, around the head and upper cylinder.

Just as an FYI, the Hawg Ty was imported and distributed by American Motorsports, not Baja Motorsports, and was manufactured by Zooma Powerwise. I imagine a few parts may interchange but there are major differences between the Hawg Ty and the Baja bikes, such as the frame, fork, seat and fenders.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#5
#5
Rapidrob said:
Good to know info on the Hawg Ty. What forum would be appropriate for this bike on this site then?
Thanks for the chain info.
Click to expand...
You're welcome. I think it's fine here. It's Chinese and I know some of the elite would prefer all China bike threads were posted here. I was just providing some info, not criticizing where it's posted; my apologies if it seemed that way.
 
massacre

massacre

#6
#6
Well it sounds like the install was a lot less work than you thought, that’s good right?
Would like to hear your first impression of the TC versus centrifugal clutch once you get her going.
 
chrisr

chrisr

Active Member
#7
#7
Rapidrob said:
The Torque Converter showed up this afternoon.
I remove the Jack-Shaft drive and did a test fit of the cast aluminum mounting plate on the engine and bike's frame. I found on my bike all I needed to modify was the cast aluminum needed to be notched at the widest portion of the frame. The Jack-Shaft support bracket did need to be moved out of the way two inches.
The mounting holes to the engine block had to be open up .005" to allow the holes to line up.
Other than cutting the plastic TC cover and shortening the chain guard 1/2", no other cutting needed to be done.
The engine heat shield was left in place and used. The bearing support casting arms were not cut,nor was the rear oil fill plug. All cleared the casting with no problems.
The only problem is the drive chain is too short by one link! Aarg!
The engine cannot be moved rearward any more as the valve cover is touching the seat support as it is.
I did have to add one 1/8" spacer to the driver clutch to align the drive belt to the driven pulley.
Now I need to I.D the chain size. I have a lot of #40 chain but it is wider than the chain on the bike now. It is NOT a #35 chain.
I will need to buy a 1/2 link or find a full link in order to ride the bike.
View attachment 247894
The black ink are the four slightly enlarged holes for mounting to the engine block. You can see the notch I milled into the casting to clear the bike's frame.
View attachment 247895

Bracket that needed to be bent back two inches
View attachment 247896
The TC installed. Chain guard and TC cover cut to fit.
View attachment 247909 View attachment 247910
Heat shield still in place, it was slightly bent inward a fraction of an inch.
Click to expand...

Please let us know how you like the TC on your trail rides :).
 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#8
#8
I found my Chain Breaker and did ad two links to the too short chain. All sorts of adjustment room left to spare.
I took the AM Hawg Ty for a ride on my "Fire Road "behind my home which is a 1/4 mile long and the clutch worked as it should.
The front wheel did almost come off the ground during a full throttle burst. After two minutes I heard something rattling around inside of the plastic drive cover and drove back home slowly. Taking the cover off I found a plastic "finger" inside of the Driven Clutch ( rear) had broken off. I'm not sure just what it does as there are two,one on each side of a tapered cam.
I contacted the seller for a replacement.
In the meantime, I took the bike up/down my driveway which is very steep 945 degrees) and 200 yards long. From a dead stop at the bottom I goosed the engine and the bike started to accelerate up the hill to about 20 MPH. The engine is not Hopped-Up and is rated at 6.5 HP ( Predator) at the crest of the driveway the bike reached its max speed which feels like 25 MPH. I have lost max speed of 30 MPH. But I like the torque although the response of the belt drive is a little longer than with the chain jack-shaft. I will see how well it does over boulders and the like this week if the weather allows.
Here are photos of the plastic part that broke off of the Driven Clutch:
 

Attachments

massacre

massacre

#9
#9
I think they call those little plastic pieces “buttons”

https://www.gopowersports.com/insert-button-for-20-30-torq-a-verter/

They seem to be a wear item, but yours obviously should not be worn out after its maiden voyage. Hope the seller makes it right.

I noticed with a TC that the top speed might not be quite as fast but the gains down low to mid range are worth it, as long as you are riding terrain that does not require top speed as a priority.

Make sure to bring a spare belt on your long journeys!
 
S

Scottusa

Member
#10
#10
I have a MB-165 with original stock centrifugal clutch and jackshaft etc and have been thinking about a TQ for many months and
doing research. This is the first time I have EVER heard of a decrease in top speed when doing the conversion. This assumes I read the statement correctly. I am sort of asking .... "how is this possible ?" So I have to ask could it be the particular model of TQ you used or
any kind of non standard size pulleys or springs used ? What brand did you get and where did you buy it. OR could this
rare circumstance be a direct result of the breakage of that small part in the TQ resulting in a greatly reduced gear ratio variation of the TQ when under heavy use.
 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#12
#12
Most of the youtube links I have seen show a loss of top speed. Very fast off the line, lots of torque.
Some show an increase in speed but no facts on tire inflation, engine mods, or final drive tooth count.
My engine is NOT modified, governor is still operational, stock carb and air cleaner.
 
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