I got up at dawn and decided to finish the electrics on my Baja Hhawg Ty bike. As I posted in an earlier post I installed a three magnet flywheel and two charging coils.
By tying the to coils together you can get some decent voltage and about 40 watts of AC. I ran the AC voltage through a rectifier/regulator to DC at about 15 VDC unloaded. 13.50 Volts loaded with lights on.
I installed a set of very bright flashing red LEDS on the blunt-end of the bike and thought why not make them brake lights? I had a spare Honda NC50 Express ( 1978 ) brake switch from OldMiniBikes Warehouse that was only 1/64" too large to fit in the handle of the all-ready installed brake handle assembly. A few turns with a hand held drill bit and it was tight and good-to-go.
Wiring was done on two ( I only show you one) scrap aluminum plates that are mounted on the phony gas tank supports. You have a ton of room under the phony tank to put in a large amount of electrics/electronics. There is also a battery pack to charge my Cell phone if needed.
So, I mounted a Terminal block ( it has a dust proof snap on cover) a 2 Amp circuit breaker ( who wants a fuse to blow/break in the middle of nowhere?) The rectifier/regulator and a hidden on/off switch under the lip of the phony tank shell.
I used Split Loom to protect the wiring's running from the blunt-end to the phony tank and from the coils to the handlebars and phony tank.
The on/off switch for the Headlight has an LED in it. I see many guys post "it don't work" as the switch does not come with instructions and you do not hook it up like a regular rocker switch.
The Rectifier/Regulator did not work out of the box. The seller overnight-ed me a replacement which does work well. It showed up this afternoon.
All systems work well and are rubber mounted to protect them from vibrations.
The - NEG 12 VDC is NOT grounded to the frame. The engine Alternator/Stater is, and has to be to work. I did not want any AC noise getting into the DC circuits.
There is also a flat pack 10 amp totally sealed battery hidden in the phony tank as well for when the engine is not running to run the lights. Both battery packs are on quick disconnects and held in place with super strong Velcro pads. ( you really have to pry them off of the pads.)
****
An Aluminum plate mounted between the phony gas tank struts. AC in/out to the Rectifier/Regulator. DC in/out to the Circuit breaker, then DC Plus/Neg going to the headlight switch and brake switch lights. Hidden tank switch on bottom of shell.
Test running with old computer batteries
Honda NC50 Express brake light switch installed
LED rocker switch for headlight in the ON.
Headlight ON. It is very bright and blinding.
Flashing Brake Lights. These too are very bright from directly behind the bike. Only cost three bucks!
The brake lights are mounted on a piece of aluminum flat stock.Painted black and threaded into the basket. A Harbor Freight reflective strip is also stuck onto the aluminum strip
That's how I did it.
Parts used:
Three magnet Flywheel from Ebay
Two charging coils from Ebay
Flashing brake lights from Ebay
Head Light from Harbor Freight
Headlight Switch from Ebay
Wiring and electrical connectors I had
Battery I had
Toggle Switch for hidden ON/OFF power I had
Terminal strip I had
Hot melt glue and screws,nuts,washers I had on hand.
Now to take it for a ride.
Rob.
By tying the to coils together you can get some decent voltage and about 40 watts of AC. I ran the AC voltage through a rectifier/regulator to DC at about 15 VDC unloaded. 13.50 Volts loaded with lights on.
I installed a set of very bright flashing red LEDS on the blunt-end of the bike and thought why not make them brake lights? I had a spare Honda NC50 Express ( 1978 ) brake switch from OldMiniBikes Warehouse that was only 1/64" too large to fit in the handle of the all-ready installed brake handle assembly. A few turns with a hand held drill bit and it was tight and good-to-go.
Wiring was done on two ( I only show you one) scrap aluminum plates that are mounted on the phony gas tank supports. You have a ton of room under the phony tank to put in a large amount of electrics/electronics. There is also a battery pack to charge my Cell phone if needed.
So, I mounted a Terminal block ( it has a dust proof snap on cover) a 2 Amp circuit breaker ( who wants a fuse to blow/break in the middle of nowhere?) The rectifier/regulator and a hidden on/off switch under the lip of the phony tank shell.
I used Split Loom to protect the wiring's running from the blunt-end to the phony tank and from the coils to the handlebars and phony tank.
The on/off switch for the Headlight has an LED in it. I see many guys post "it don't work" as the switch does not come with instructions and you do not hook it up like a regular rocker switch.
The Rectifier/Regulator did not work out of the box. The seller overnight-ed me a replacement which does work well. It showed up this afternoon.
All systems work well and are rubber mounted to protect them from vibrations.
The - NEG 12 VDC is NOT grounded to the frame. The engine Alternator/Stater is, and has to be to work. I did not want any AC noise getting into the DC circuits.
There is also a flat pack 10 amp totally sealed battery hidden in the phony tank as well for when the engine is not running to run the lights. Both battery packs are on quick disconnects and held in place with super strong Velcro pads. ( you really have to pry them off of the pads.)
****
An Aluminum plate mounted between the phony gas tank struts. AC in/out to the Rectifier/Regulator. DC in/out to the Circuit breaker, then DC Plus/Neg going to the headlight switch and brake switch lights. Hidden tank switch on bottom of shell.
Test running with old computer batteries
Honda NC50 Express brake light switch installed
LED rocker switch for headlight in the ON.
Headlight ON. It is very bright and blinding.
Flashing Brake Lights. These too are very bright from directly behind the bike. Only cost three bucks!
The brake lights are mounted on a piece of aluminum flat stock.Painted black and threaded into the basket. A Harbor Freight reflective strip is also stuck onto the aluminum strip
That's how I did it.
Parts used:
Three magnet Flywheel from Ebay
Two charging coils from Ebay
Flashing brake lights from Ebay
Head Light from Harbor Freight
Headlight Switch from Ebay
Wiring and electrical connectors I had
Battery I had
Toggle Switch for hidden ON/OFF power I had
Terminal strip I had
Hot melt glue and screws,nuts,washers I had on hand.
Now to take it for a ride.
Rob.
