Bearing problem- too loose

#1
Ordered precision hi speed bearing the 1 3/8 o.d. bearing, went to put them in the Manco wheel and one goes in and out freely, the other I can pop in an d pop out with my finger. Some one told me to make divots with a punch to make a little metal stand up inside the wheel, but a machinist told me that would but all the pressure on the divot. Open to solutions. Does someone make a thin round spacer that would go around the outside of the 1 3/8 bearing? Any help greatly appreciated.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#4
Wrapping a strip of adhesive aluminum heater duct tape around works real slick.
You can trim, & add & remove,, until you like the fit, I use an Xacto knife. ;)
Make sure you clean the surface real good first, ''I use alcohol prep pads'', & then work the strip down using your finger a section at a time.

Doing this, it will be smooth & centered,,& stay on real well.
I
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
#7
I've knurled the bore where the bearing is supposed to be a snug fit before in cast iron hubs with good results while using locktite. You have to punch a consistent pattern in rows for best results. It was on a light weight trailer so I wasn't too concerned. Aluminum is a different story. I think I would prefer shim stock and loctite. They make inside knurling tools to use in a lathe, but if you have that kind of equipment you could bore the hub and make your own precision bushing. If there's enough material you could bore to a slightly larger O D bearing. May need to make a steel bushing for the I D or make a stepped axle. I recently bored a motorcycle hub for a bushing for a motorized bicycle install. There's no shortage of common mini bike wheels, but I think saving a rare wheel is important.
 
#8
I've knurled the bore where the bearing is supposed to be a snug fit before in cast iron hubs with good results while using locktite. You have to punch a consistent pattern in rows for best results. It was on a light weight trailer so I wasn't too concerned. Aluminum is a different story. I think I would prefer shim stock and loctite. They make inside knurling tools to use in a lathe, but if you have that kind of equipment you could bore the hub and make your own precision bushing. If there's enough material you could bore to a slightly larger O D bearing. May need to make a steel bushing for the I D or make a stepped axle. I recently bored a motorcycle hub for a bushing for a motorized bicycle install. There's no shortage of common mini bike wheels, but I think saving a rare wheel is important.
Thanks
 

SAT

Active Member
#10
Ordered precision hi speed bearing the 1 3/8 o.d. bearing, went to put them in the Manco wheel and one goes in and out freely, the other I can pop in an d pop out with my finger. Some one told me to make divots with a punch to make a little metal stand up inside the wheel, but a machinist told me that would but all the pressure on the divot. Open to solutions. Does someone make a thin round spacer that would go around the outside of the 1 3/8 bearing? Any help greatly appreciated.
Is it a Streaker wheel? Ours runs pretty wonky. It takes me forever to get everything concentric after I replace the tire and tube. If it’s too belled-out, can’t you buy a NOS replacement wheel?
We clamp the axle bolt by the head in a bench vice and spin it like a lazy susan. Then keep fussing with it till everything looks good. Good luck with the sprocket, mark it before dissembling if you need to.
Shimming will work.
We like our Streaker, still H35 powered.
 
#11
Wrapping a strip of adhesive aluminum heater duct tape around works real slick.
You can trim, & add & remove,, until you like the fit, I use an Xacto knife. ;)
Make sure you clean the surface real good first, ''I use alcohol prep pads'', & then work the strip down using your finger a section at a time.

Doing this, it will be smooth & centered,,& stay on real well.
I
Do you put it on the bearing or in the wheel?
 

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