Best Clutch?

#1
I just returned from Colorado where I rode my Baja Dirt Bug daily around my property. Last week I upgraded my brakes to hydraulics, and was very happy with the results, they are a real improvement over the standard cable. A year or so ago, I upgraded the pleated air filter and header with silencer with the kit from hotrodminibike, so this picture is a little dated.

I have decided to upgrade my clutch, and would like some opinions on the best clutch for the 6.5 Hemi. While running it up the hills in CO, it would shake until it got up to speed. I don't remember where I originally bought my clutch, but I am thinking it was amazon. I don't believe it was very expensive. Any suggestions?
 

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gbabins1

Active Member
#3
If your're riding in the hills you may want to change your gearing and don't forget to oil the bushing on the clutch. The stock gearing is too tall for the hills... which is probably why it is shaking until the clutch shoes lock in.
 
#5
If your're riding in the hills you may want to change your gearing and don't forget to oil the bushing on the clutch. The stock gearing is too tall for the hills... which is probably why it is shaking until the clutch shoes lock in.
The hills aren't that dramatic, but I have to get my speed up to get up them.
 

gbabins1

Active Member
#7
The hills aren't that dramatic, but I have to get my speed up to get up them.
Yeah, I would change the gearing or maybe look into a TAV. I mean, we kill ours in the sand... but as long as your gearing is right, a well oiled clutch will last a long time.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
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gbabins1

Active Member
#12
The jackshaft is nice too. Makes gear changes easy. All but one of my bikes have jackshafts mounted on them... the loner has a TAV which is really fun as well :scooter:
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#13

I did not like the Jackshaft kit... I got the PMR kit from Hotrodminibikes. I had switched out rear gears so my driven gear was 15t instead of the 12t. Otherwise the torque would have been ridiculous and top end would be slow. Not to mention, it makes you kinda sandwich on the clutch over the bracket and another small spacer which caused constant clutch engagement issues with my ARC Mongrel clutch. And it kept stretching and destroying the short jackshaft chain. I must have went through 4 before upgrading chain and ended up ditching it all for a straight clutch to sprocket adapter and split sprocket drive system to give me the gear ratio I desire. I'm now running a 14t Noram Premier Stinger racing clutch to a 62t split sprocket on my 19HP stainless valve roller 212cc and it hauls ass!
My advice would be to get the sprocket adapter and just buy a quality clutch and choose your gear ratio. I don't have any experience with the Tav units, so I don't have an opinion outside they're expensive and not used in racing.
 
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noseoil

Active Member
#14
Daniel, what's the top end on the bike now with your gearing & tire size? Calculated as a 4.42:1 final drive, so what kind of rpm's are you making & how fast is it now? Beautiful job on the bike by the way, really like what you did with it.
 
#16
IMO the best option is a TAV. It covers both of your issues. Price range? You would consider a $150 jackshaft but not a $70 TAV?
I wasn't considering the Jackshaft, I thought it was a TAV. Seeing that the TAV is only $70, I am considering it, but I still haven't made my mind up yet.

Thinking about it, I think I got the clutch off eBay with a chain for around $30. I read somewhere you can tell the difference between a cheap clutch and a quality one, and I think mine is cheap...
 

noseoil

Active Member
#17
Second the TAV for better performance & ride. It takes a bit of work to set up on some bikes, but is well worth the effort in riding, pulling & top speed. I think it's just a better alternative. Look into who has done one on your type of bike to see what's involved.
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#18
Daniel, what's the top end on the bike now with your gearing & tire size? Calculated as a 4.42:1 final drive, so what kind of rpm's are you making & how fast is it now? Beautiful job on the bike by the way, really like what you did with it.
Appreciate your compliments. I have not had the bike all out yet, but according to CSG Network's mini bike speed calculator I currently have a top speed of 67.17MPH at 8,000 RPM and it pulls hard from the stop. My rear wheel diameter is a smallish 12.5" and is holding​ back my top speed a little bit. I have a 60t split sprocket I plan on trying next, but man, it feels wicked fast now! The 60t should get me 69.4MPH, and I will try a larger diameter slick tire on the rear when I wear out this pocket bike street tire.
And as with everything, you get what you pay for. The real TAV 2 is closer to $200. GTC manufacturing also makes a nice torque converter, but it's $189 also. I wouldn't recommend the budget $70 one.
 
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