BGW Tri-Rod restoration thread..


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Hi over the last year I've been slowly able to work on my
BGW tri rod so I figured now that I have a little more time and most parts I'd put up a thread.
Here are the pics I have so far


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I sanded down frame, shot primer then 2 coats of gloss black. The seat I smoothed with a fiberglass/plastic filler (don't remember exactly what right now) and sanded smooth. Then I shot it with primer and 2 coats of Metal Specs blue and 2 coats of clear. Ordered a blue tinted headlight and slapped a 420cc 13 hp Predator engine on it and painted some parts blue (that pic isn't the best inthe garage).

So here's my current hang-up..I'd replaced the jackshaft when I got the mount, it was 3/4" jackshaft. So now that I got engine on it, i noticed jackshaft was too short and noticed that the comet torque converter kits were made for a 5/8" jackshaft so I bought a longer 5/8" jackshaft w/o noticing the old one was 3/4". Now I see you can get TCs with a 3/4 driven pulley but they don't look like sets with the hardware.
Should I use the 5/8" jackshaft with a TC kit or use the bigger 3/4 jackshaft and just get the other TC that's not a kit?!?


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Yeah mine is set up like that. I don't have anything but the jackshaft yet and I believe I have a sprocket for a #40.
I'll take a look at that link. I still gotta get 5/8 bearings if I go with that jackshaft and I would think they'd work but wasn't sure if since it was a 3/4 jackshaft originally if a 5/8 would be too weak. I'll try I get some better pics
Also wasn't sure if I should go with a torque converter kit or jus buy the driver, driven, and belt since I wasn't sure if cover would still it or if I'd need the plate that comes in the kit
The T555's use a 5/8" jackshaft with no issues. The Tav with backing plate would not be what I would use. The shaft sticking out the back of the plate to run the sprocket to the chain would be unsupported. Best scenario would be to use a 40 series with that engine(1" shaft on engine,correct)? Then to the 3/4" driven. I would be worried about the driven spring on a 30 series coming unwound.


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Yeah it is a 1" shaft on engine. I will go with the 40 series so I'll jus need a longer 3/4 shaft. And the torque converter of course. Hoping I can get everything I need ordered so it'll be done soon. All I need to do is mount the jackshaft bracket, motor, connect the torque converter and run the throttle and brakes lines, and build a battery box. Then on to the next

Btw: when I got my T555, I stuck a predator 212cc on it jus to test it and had snapped the jackshaft after an hour lol. Luckily it wasn't a far push back
Snapped it? I have been racing a couple of mine pushing 350 pounds. Never had a problem. In fact you have to hammer the frame to run a 3/4" shaft or it will rub the center tube I believe... Maybe I will try it on the one I am working on now. It's so butchered anyway I was going to call it "Meat"...
Yeah was jus driving the streets in a small town. I'd taken the 212cc off my TS-110 jus to see how the trike ran and jackshaft snapped. I believe it was from a blown out or missing bearing as I didn't look it over at all before slapping the engine on n hammering the throttle hahaha here's the few pics I have

But ordering the longer 3/4 jackshaft and looking for the cheapest correct torque converter I can find
Hopefully she's us and goin by mid January


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Nice looking trike, Like Papa and Gumpit says, I'd stay with a 3/4" jackshaft.

Mostly because of the 13HP you are running.
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On my Tri-Sport Street Legal trike I had a Kohler 440 engine and I was on the onramp of the I-5 freeway when I lost the driven half of the torque converter and had to hauled home . I bought some high grade shafting that was 3/4 inch and I had a machinist friend cut the keyways only where the sprocket and converter needed to be so that where the bearings were there was solid shafting. That engine was rated as 50 HP and I never had any more problems.
I just got my new longer 3/4 jackshaft today. Ordered the TC on eBay a few days ago. Once it arrives I can put it all on mount the motor n jackshaft mount, then then all I need to do is find the right belt+chain length, run brakes and lines, hook up throttle, pick up a battery,
Put new rear tires on and eventually find a place to maker a nice seat pad, but I won't let that stop me from taking it out once it's together haha

Thanks to all for the parts advice, it saved me from sitn here arguing with myself on which way to go.

I'll have to pick the next one I'm doin yet toss up between a couple


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Got my new torque converter in. Put new jackshaft in mount , it has some movement , side to side, doesn't seem right, I bought new flangettes and and still the same, kinda baffled. Maybe could be the paint on the mount being too thick?? Anyone have any ideas? Once this is figured out I have everything I need to mount it and finish except battery and a belt! image.jpg
Are you saying the bearings are moving side to side in the flangettes? I think it is because you have to put the flangettes on the bearing then up against one side of the mount. You have a bearing flangette on each side of the mount.
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