Billet Flywheel / Connecting Rod Necessary?

[yellow azusa]

Make sure he's starting it correctly. With the compression release all it takes is a little tug to start. If he's not on the compression release it will do just that. From the manual, Pull the Starter Handle gently until resistance is felt. Allow Cable to retract fully
and then pull it quickly. Repeat until the engine starts.

Also as a side note, if the valve lash is not correct you can override the compression release and it's a bugger to start.

As for the plug, that's the first mod that should be done. The stock plug is doo doo.

Thanks Tweety! Imagine that! Operating instructions are in the manual? Good to know that's the right plug. I can tell a significant difference between the autolite and the stock plug. Really appreciate it.

 

[68pishta]

I got a lawn worx cheapo edger with a vertical shaft motor (WTH?) an a weird twisted belt operation. Starting that thing is a workmans comp case, it bucks on every pull. I gave up on it last season and its has sat. Maybe Ill try that gently pull to resistance and then the rip cord procedure. I concur on the at least a 10K cast AL flywheel as they are so reasonable and 22lb springs but Im not sold on a billet rod as mandatory. Forged rods are superior in grain structure and compression to billet but a billet rod can be made by anyone with a CNC so they are everywhere. When you see billet, think of a piece of bar stock steel that has a rod cut out of it and then its machined to look pretty while a forged rod requires dies and a >2000 ton press, not what you find at your local machine shop.