Boostdoctor's open class "Smoking Doodle"!!
- Thread starter boostdoctor
- Start date
- Tags "smoking boostdoctor's cr500 2stroke doodle"!! open
Ok guys I have the secondary clutch.... I have ordered the primary clutch, jackshaft, pillow block bearings and a engine gasket set. I'm getting closer, but still need a few more things. I have the rear brake caliper mounted but forgot to get pics. I post pics when the snow clears. I used a Suzuki gsxr750 caliper mounted outboard.
I thought about that; but I cant move the motor over because th exhaust port is centered in between the frame as it sits now and there is no extra room. That's why I put the brake on the out side. The chain will be on the left side also(in between the wheel and frame). And the exhaust will be on the left side. That should have the bike fairly balanced. Worst case, I will mount a 5 lb piece of lead to the left if the balance isn't acceptable.
You will see what I mean once you have the clutch. If you can't move it over where is currently is, move the motor back about 6"...
Side view of a Comet 108C. You can see how far offset from center the motor is.
When I built the clutch cover for it, it came out 9" from where the cardboard is.
Side view of a Comet 108C. You can see how far offset from center the motor is.
When I built the clutch cover for it, it came out 9" from where the cardboard is.
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You will see what I mean once you have the clutch. If you can't move it over where is currently is, move the motor back about 6"...
Side view of a Comet 108C. You can see how far offset from center the motor is.
When I built the clutch cover for it, it came out 9" from where the cardboard is.
Side view of a Comet 108C. You can see how far offset from center the motor is.
When I built the clutch cover for it, it came out 9" from where the cardboard is.
Ok guys I have ran into a problem. My output shaft on my crank is 7/8" splined(male). My clutch is a 30mm taper bore. My original plan was to get a coupling machined that would fit over the splined end of crank(on 1 side)and fit into the tapered end of the crank(on the other). Well nobody locally wants to touch it. You guys have any suggestions. I really wanted to use this type of clutch. I can get a Polaris crank that will fit the clutch and cut the shaft off the end. Its big enough to fit over my crank. The problem is, I havnt found anyone that can cut the splines into the hardened shaft.:shrug:
My 500 is still down, Ill throw the primary gear onto the lathe and see if it cuts on the side of it. Id imagine that gear is case hardened?? How do you plan on holding it all onto the crank?maybe a extra wide nut, tighten the shaft onto crank then bolt the clutch to the extra length of nut???
Another idea....put a sprocket on the crank back to a jackshaft which can be tapered.... ill let you know how the gear cuts.
Another idea....put a sprocket on the crank back to a jackshaft which can be tapered.... ill let you know how the gear cuts.
well i chucked up the primary gear, started to take a light cut, only a couple thousandths, on the outer side. Its was some hard stuff, the shavings were glowing red but cutting....until the cross feed brought the bit near the valleys of the teeth, then nothing it stopped cutting and just glided right over the gear teeth, my carbide bit didnt even leave a mark on them. sorry I cant help ya....Youll need someone with a toolpost grinder to alter it.
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Alright thanks, I will look for someone with that type of attachment. Will a toolpost grinder make a i.d. cut. I was going to buy a bad Polaris crank, cut the end off right at the counterweight and hopefully machine a hole in the end to accept the machined down primary gear. I want it to be a press fit...and I will machine a chamfer on the end. ...and then tig weld around the chamfer. What do you think?