Bought a cat

#3
Not sure why but I can't post more than a couple of sentences. Perhaps it doesn't like "jack shaft" or "torque converter"

Edit: Obviously that's not true...

We are going to tear it down and make a plan and list of parts. Looking forward to your guys help if I can get these posts to work!
 
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#4
This is what it looks like today. mini bike 4.jpg

A bucket of parts! It's was surprisingly easy to disassemble. Not a lot of rust to contend with. All the bearings needs to be replaced, the tires are dry rotted and both rear shocks are bent. The front shocks work pretty good but the left one is sticky - is it just plastic bushing / sleeves in there? I am going to wire wheel the chrome bits and see if I can get it moving better. New springs needed up front. Brake cables and shoes. Might upgrade the rear brake hub to a flange one that takes the two piece gears. Both rear shocks are bent so those will need to be replaced. Need to find some pillow bearings or the original retainers and a jack shaft. Then decide on an engine and gearing. Thinking a Chonda / Clone maybe a Lifan with electric start since they have a coil to run some lights. Maybe not. Going to clean everything up and make a list.

Oh yea, the only thing I goofed on was trying to take apart the two piece wheels without deflating the tire. Good thing the old timer I bought it from gave me an extra!

oops.jpg
 
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#6
Not sure about the tires - They say Aoran Trail 14X6 - nice looking treds but major dry rot. Wheels are between 3.5"-4" wide. Can't find anything about that brand on the internet. I also have a Carlisle with an indian head logo 4.10X3.5 on the side (single tire) great shape...perhaps I can find a matching tire. Otherwise there are scads of 410X350X6 tires out there.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#7
Not sure about the tires - They say Aoran Trail 14X6 - nice looking treds but major dry rot. Wheels are between 3.5"-4" wide. Can't find anything about that brand on the internet. I also have a Carlisle with an indian head logo 4.10X3.5 on the side (single tire) great shape...perhaps I can find a matching tire. Otherwise there are scads of 410X350X6 tires out there.
the name is actually Adran, at that time they were owned/distributed by Lemans company, I've never seen any NOS pop up and you rarely see any "good" ones left anymore as they did like to dryrot/weathercheck fast...like a Michelin :smile:



Last I have seen the name used it was connected with Studebaker (whens the last time you heard that name!) but still motorcycle related, I think they dropped the tire lines long ago and even this accessory kit I picked up was probably 10-15 years old when I got it so I dunno if they are even still in the game.




Coker tire is making a repop of a trails tire though now in 14x6 size, They fit the bill for the bikes that used the 14x6 off brand named tires like the cheng shin Adrans and Ceasar even though they were intended for the Rupp bikes

https://www.cokertire.com/coker-classic-trials-14-6.html
 
#8
Nice SSSCAT-II. The original tires spec'd in the manual were 4.00 x 6.00 (4" wide, 6" rim). Funny how many ways there are to call out a tire size. 14x6, 530/4.50 and 530x450x6 are basically the same thing. 14x6 would be closer to original but I typically use the 530x450 Chen Shin Trials. They are darn close and only $20 vs. $55 for the 14x6 reproductions. Just don't use the 410x350's, as they are too small.

Regarding the front forks, yes, it's a split nylon plastic insert. You'll need to remove it to clean them thoroughly. The bottom end sits in a shallow groove. Use a small flat screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers. look in the end and locate the split. Pry up carefully just to the right or left of the split. Get a hold of the corner with your pliers. Twist the corner in on itself, like you were tightening a roll of wrapping paper. As you do that, start pulling the insert out of the tube. You might need to use a couple of small screwdrivers as wedges to keep the plastic from popping back into the groove.

I've got a few parts that will help you out. I've got pegs, shocks, headstock bearings, brakes, levers, probably a set of jack shaft bearing clamps, reflectors, and tail light. Most is NOS. You can probably repair the bent shocks if the chrome is good. I do it all the time. I have the correct headlight for this bike too, which was an odd mount on this model and very tough to find, but it needs re-chrome and a new bulb. Let me know what you need once you get your list together.
 
#9
Thanks for the replies people. There is a guy just 15 minutes north of me with scads of parts for these so I'll probably check that out first. Otherwise, I will for sure let you know what I need ArcticMinibike.

Got this commercial grade Honda gx100 today for $75 - no lighting coil but it should do the trick. Still noodling the whole drive system. not sure if I want to do direct drive, use the jack shaft with gears or use the jack shaft with a torque-a-verter.

gx100.jpg

It's not going to be a trailer queen...just want something for the kids to ride. Originally, my kids wanted to paint it but I am starting to really like the patina / rusty bits. I might just wire wheel stuff and leave it at that.
 

Ding Ding

Well-Known Member
#11
I bought reproduction Coker trials tires for mine. Check out Blackwidow Motorsports.net, he has the tires in addition to some other cat parts
 
#12
What I can't figure out is the jack shaft and brakes set up. The rear brake is on the right (passenger side) and the gear is on the driver's side. It's a 28 tooth so perhaps they were trying to set a land speed record... Near as I can tell the original SSSCat II had a secondary clutch on the driver's side and gears on the passenger side of the shaft and the rear axle. If I put in a jack shaft with gears (skipping the torque converter setup) then I'd have to move the brake to the other side. The swing arm has a plate that holds the brake shoes from spinning and it is not reverseable to use on the other side. So if I use a jackshaft then will I have to upgrade to a brake drum with a flange for bolting the gear set onto over the drum?

All this has me thinking I might just get a clutch and a rear gear and leave the rear brake were it is. I did some calculating and I think I'd go 11/72, 12/72 or 11/60. Looking for a balance with that little 3 hp Honda. Maybe 20 mph top speed and be able to climb a small grade with my kids on it. Although, it would be fun to play around with jack shaft gearing I can change the final drive ratio between 5.5-6.5 with just a couple extra gears.

Still have't cleaned up those parts...gotta get the pressure washer from my father in law. Got that Honda tuned up, carb cleaned new spark plug & fresh gas. She purrrrrs.
 

Ding Ding

Well-Known Member
#13
I would stick with the original torque converter/jack shaft set up and keep the brake on the "correct" side. I can take pics of mine to show you if there is any confusion.

 
#14
I would stick with the original torque converter/jack shaft set up and keep the brake on the "correct" side. I can take pics of mine to show you if there is any confusion.[\QUOTE]

That's what I mean. How is your gear attached to that side with the brake over there? Is the final gear welded to the hub?

Yesterday I hit the bike with a green scrubby, the pressure washer and then sprayed it with a can of clear. I know spraying clear coat over rust sounds goofy but like I said before, I like the look of it now, I just don't want it to rust further.

clear coat.jpg

I also have one of these Indian head tires that is in great shape. Too bad it is too small - it's a 4.10 3.50 X 6. Do they sell these anymore, I was thinking of buying a matching one and using it. Otherwise, I'll get the $20 CS Trails in a 530 450.

indian head.jpg
 

Ding Ding

Well-Known Member
#16
The rear sprocket is not welded to the hub. All the components (sprocket, brake, wheels) just bolt together. I will try and get some pics tonight.

That's cool that Honda motor bolted right up.
 
#19
What I can't figure out is the jack shaft and brakes set up. The rear brake is on the right (passenger side) and the gear is on the driver's side. It's a 28 tooth so perhaps they were trying to set a land speed record... Near as I can tell the original SSSCat II had a secondary clutch on the driver's side and gears on the passenger side of the shaft and the rear axle. If I put in a jack shaft with gears (skipping the torque converter setup) then I'd have to move the brake to the other side. The swing arm has a plate that holds the brake shoes from spinning and it is not reverseable to use on the other side. So if I use a jackshaft then will I have to upgrade to a brake drum with a flange for bolting the gear set onto over the drum?

All this has me thinking I might just get a clutch and a rear gear and leave the rear brake were it is. I did some calculating and I think I'd go 11/72, 12/72 or 11/60. Looking for a balance with that little 3 hp Honda. Maybe 20 mph top speed and be able to climb a small grade with my kids on it. Although, it would be fun to play around with jack shaft gearing I can change the final drive ratio between 5.5-6.5 with just a couple extra gears.

Still have't cleaned up those parts...gotta get the pressure washer from my father in law. Got that Honda tuned up, carb cleaned new spark plug & fresh gas. She purrrrrs.
The smaller the rear sprocket, the faster it goes. They were engineered to provide the correct balance of speed and torque.

As Ding Ding said, I would keep the stock driveline and braking setup. The brake drum bolts to one side directly to the wheel, the sprocket requires an adapter that bolts to the other side.



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#20
Scratch my previous comment on assembly order. I never noticed that the SSSCAT-II had brake and sprocket on same side. Weird. That's different from all other 6" models. I wonder what sparked the design change. I still say keep it as stock as possible but with the new engine.

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