Briggs 2.5 hp side cover issue

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#23
Well it cannot be the correct bearing. The crankshaft would have to machined for this to fit. It's too small inside diameter. It will fit in the cover ok. Now what? I'm going have my neighbor measure the crankshaft diameter. I have no such device. Like I said I'm not a mechanic. Maybe you know what the next size would be? Thanks
 

Attachments

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#25
Ok it appears that somehow I picked out the wrong bearing. Hmmm I didn't notice it didn't say "7/8". Give my a clue where I could go and buy this critter over the counter. I have no idea....auto parts store? Sorry your baby sitting job has turned into a nightmare!
 

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#27
Well I see I can get it online from Amazon but not until 25th. I chose the Timken out of the lot seeing I could get it in 2 days but not noticing that particular one didn't have 7/8 attached to the description. I'll see if there's a bearing supplier around. Thank you we'll get there.
 

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#29
Wow I saw this too late. I just ordered from Amazon. Get it Wednesday. Thanks for the tip. The one on the zon is only $4.10 maybe I'll go to the auto parts store anyway.
 
#30
Do not expect the bearing to be a simple slip-on the crank. These are press-fitted on the crank from the factory. In the Briggs repair manual it states that if they are to be removed for replacement you must use an arbor press. Then it goes on to state that If you are installing one it must be heated in oil to 250 degrees, then, (presumably for a very short time) they will slip on and tighten as it cools.
Michael
 
Last edited:
#31
Placing the entire crank in a freezer overnight and boiling the bearing in water might work.
I have never done this trick on this exact application, but it has worked for many other tight fitting, "press fit" situations.
 

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#32
Placing the entire crank in a freezer overnight and boiling the bearing in water might work.
I have never done this trick on this exact application, but it has worked for many other tight fitting, "press fit" situations.
Well this puppy is not going to tear this thing down to install this. I'm going heat the bearing in hot water ( No way my wife is going let me heat stinky motor oil in kitchen). Also will put the ENTIRE motor in the freezer I have in garage. After it's on I'll remove the inner seal of bearing when it's already on the crankshaft, I think I can get it out with small tool, hopefully I can reach it. I know this not how you motor rebuilders would do it, but oh well, I'm just not interested or checked out in all this kind of stuff. I always paid someone to rebuild my motors and what not. So now enlighten me of the pit falls of these described procedures guys I'm open and sure you'll have a comment on this! ;). Thanks to all my helpful friends on OldMiniBikes.
 
#33
Remove the seals first, add your timing marks, and have a small piece of pipe ready. The pipe should fit over the crank but not be larger than the inner race of the bearing. Hammer would be nice, also. You won't have much time, and probably only one chance to get the bearing seated. Best of luck, Friend! You can do this. Boiling water....grill?
 

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#34
Remove the seals first, add your timing marks, and have a small piece of pipe ready. The pipe should fit over the crank but not be larger than the inner race of the bearing. Hammer would be nice, also. You won't have much time, and probably only one chance to get the bearing seated. Best of luck, Friend! You can do this. Boiling water....grill?
Never thought of a grille....you're an ace! Now I feel better about removing the inside seal first. Thanks. I guess I remember we used to use desiccant in our canister dryers in the shop back a long time before we had a mechanical air dryer. I once conned one of my guys to cook the desiccant in an oven to dry it. Oh boy was he ticked when it smelled up his house...it was a joke but we wanted to see if he would do it. Oh boy we had a laugh.
 
#35
Look closely at the radius on the inside of the bearing race. It has a smooth curve to it. The crank probably has a sharp shoulder. Sand or file that shoulder a little bit so it is not sharp. That will make starting the bearing a much happier experience.;)
Remove the shroud. If the flywheel is still installed, have a wheel or a skillet to support it before you drop the hot bearing onto the crank, install your pipe and seat the bearing quickly.
 

bbiggs54

Well-Known Member
#36
I want to thank everyone for the advice and help I've received regarding this side cover/bearing issue. I ordered the correct bearing and it was supposed to be here today and it didn't show up so I'm moving on. Too much BS to mount a side cover with embossed mounting holes on an engine that quite frankly won't even be started up after the bike is finished. 90% of my stuff is for viewing, not for riding. I have too much time and money invested in these things for them to get clapped out. I know a lot of you don't like "trailer queens" but I've built a few cars like that too. I found the correct one on eBay today, it will be here by the end of the month and my window is closing for the return of the bearing cover. Thanks again!
 
Top