Briggs 3.5hp Power Washer to Mini Bike Throttle Set-Up?

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#1
I got ahold of this free 3.5hp Briggs off a Coleman power washer and want to use it on one of my economy mini bike builds. It fits the chassis perfectly, and fired on ether. I got a new OEM style Chinese carb to put on, and sure it’ll run fine at that point. Question is, how do I hook up my throttle cable? Is there a home-brewed set-up anyone has come up with that works well, or are there any factory or aftermarket linkages to make it work? I’d probably figure something out eventually, but would love to see any ready-made solutions that might already be out there!
 

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Doc1976

Active Member
#2
your linkage setup is different than I'm used to, but here is a shot of how I've done them. I know it's a little different but maybe will give you some ideas? Your choke and throttle are opposite of this one. I made the little swivel for the throttle cable to attach to that you can see on the top lever with the cotter pin, and mount the throttle conduit in the cast mounting location on the side of the carb. I hope it helps.

 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#3
I’m not seeing it precisely, but appreciate the response! I can see clearly that the choke is on bottom, opposite to what I have (like you said), but there seems to be bits I can’t see. The only thing I see attached to the throttle plate is that small spring (that appears to want to pull the throttle plate open?); don’t see any linkage rod. I didn’t mention this, but my intent is to not bypass the governor if possible. Conceptually, I’m wondering if I could loosen the throttle arm pivot so that it rotates freely, then attach the cable to it somehow. I’d also have to add a return spring somehow.
 

Doc1976

Active Member
#4
I’m not seeing it precisely, but appreciate the response! I can see clearly that the choke is on bottom, opposite to what I have (like you said), but there seems to be bits I can’t see. The only thing I see attached to the throttle plate is that small spring (that appears to want to pull the throttle plate open?); don’t see any linkage rod. I didn’t mention this, but my intent is to not bypass the governor if possible. Conceptually, I’m wondering if I could loosen the throttle arm pivot so that it rotates freely, then attach the cable to it somehow. I’d also have to add a return spring somehow.
Yeah, in that pic the linkage is not hooked up yet. It is not the best pic but only one i could find. I'll look again after work and see if I can find a better one. The best thing about doing it this way is that it allows for all the governor linkage to be left intact.
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#5
I’m not seeing it precisely, but appreciate the response! I can see clearly that the choke is on bottom, opposite to what I have (like you said), but there seems to be bits I can’t see. The only thing I see attached to the throttle plate is that small spring (that appears to want to pull the throttle plate open?); don’t see any linkage rod. I didn’t mention this, but my intent is to not bypass the governor if possible. Conceptually, I’m wondering if I could loosen the throttle arm pivot so that it rotates freely, then attach the cable to it somehow. I’d also have to add a return spring somehow.
I would think you could drill out the rivet and put a small bolt thru it like they do with the tecumseh snowblower throttles. There is a sticky in the tecumseh area on it. Screenshot_20220214-183819_Chrome.jpg
 

Doc1976

Active Member
#6
I would think you could drill out the rivet and put a small bolt thru it like they do with the tecumseh snowblower throttles. There is a sticky in the tecumseh area on it. View attachment 286959
Yes, this is part of what I do. Drill out the rivet and use a bolt with washers, and a lockout. This way you can tighten it down enough to get smooth movement. Of course on his it would be the lower lever and rivet..........

Still looking for a better pic to offer you
 

Doc1976

Active Member
#7
So I just don't have a pic of one of mine that really shows it very well. But you need to buy find or fab a cable stop that attach to the throttle lever on that motor. You may need to drill a new hole or oversize and existing hole to mount it. Just look it over and find a location that won't interfere with any of the linkage or other parts. You can then route your cable on the top frame rail and enter the engine from the back using the cable mount in the carb above the choke lever. I have attached a pic of the style cable stop I'm referring to, although that is off a different motor. It just gives you and example of the style. It can attach with an e-clip, screw or cotter pin depending on which one you get. I hope this clarifies things a little.
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#8
Thanks for the replies! I’ve done several Tecumseh conversions on Snow blower linkages, so have that down pretty well. Triley, the bit you circled is the choke lever, but I get where you’re going with the suggestion. Doc, you’re dead on in that the fiddley part is figuring where/how to add a cable clamp to the linkage arm. Here’s another pic of my set-up from another angle. On the left, you can see the ready made spot for fitting the cable housing (though you have to come in from the rear of the engine), and the pencil shows the linkage arm that the cable end would need attached to. The outer throttle lever links to the arm with the pencil, so I could go to that outer control lever too, but would have to make a clamp to hold the cable housing in place somewhere ahead of it towards the blower housing side…
 

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Doc1976

Active Member
#11
I've done dozens of 3.5hp briggs motors and not one with that particular linkage setup. Looks like you're on your way though. Good luck.
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#12
Here’s where I’m at this far. I decided to drill a hole in the linkage arm a little bigger, so the screw for a cable stop would fit through and pivot. Seems to line up pretty well. Looks like I can even hook a return spring to the back side of that same arm, and run it downward between the tank and engine. I removed the original throttle control and its linkage parts to free up space and avoid any interferences. Should also help me get a nut driver in there to tighten the cable stop screw when installing the cable. Will let you know how it all actually works once I put it back together!
 

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