Hey, don't don't know why but it seems the _)&(*%^@#$! eBay link above got borked, pretty annoying and I couldn't edit it in time (only 5 minutes allowed for editing here?!?!? sheesh...) but it is eBay item #251718564256. Again, kinda spendy....I try to get them at around $12-15. Good luck! (I'm off to bed.....)
Until you put a cam in it, anything does little. But it does add up.
All I do on Briggs 5hp is to take the edge off between the valves and the cylinder.
Take a sharpie and a head gasket. Set the gasket on the block and mark the area the gasket does not cover between the valves and the cylinder. I then take a sanding roll and smooth the lip(eyebrow) by the valve so it is more like a gentle ramp towards the cylinder.
Some people will take the block down to where that edge is even from valve to where the upper ring stops. I think that is too far, but everyone has an opinion.
I don't like taking out a lot as all the metal you sand away lowers compression.
The exhaust side is less important in the eyebrow area as the gasses are being pushed out, but the intake side should be smooth.
Sometimes I think people forget the exhaust is under pressure and the flow is not the same as when under vacuum, ie: less than atmospheric.
I filled er up with SAE 30 today, but I am a bit nervous of the gas and paint, mixing :doah: Ill mount it to my bike frame and fire er up :laugh: I will probably give you guys a video aswell :thumbsup: The sooner I get this done, The sooner the H35 gets a rebuild!
Help Needed! Every time she fires, it backfires out the exhaust and hurts my hand! I had it running well before but now it won't. The key is not sheared, I have checked it. I know the cam is also timed correctly. I'm tired of the recoil flying away! Fuel or ether down the carb makes it fire out of there (with smoke). Just realised I forgot the recoil starter washer! Does this make a difference??? :doah: