Briggs 5hp throttle linkage

wildman

wildman

#1
#1
This has probably been answered many times on this forum, but I can’t find it. Is there a standard practice for converting this type of old push/pull wire throttle linkage ↓ to typical braided cable and return spring?


I’ve done this conversion on the linear type linkage ↓ using the Briggs kit #692316, but not on the radial type.


Thanks for any help.
 
creia

creia

#9
#9
The throttle kit posted by others works great and it is a very good value. We've used them on numerous engines (both 3 Hp and 5 HP) and been very satisfied. There is a "head's up", however, that you should be aware of if you are purchasing one of these:
1. The kit does NOT come with the small Briggs shoulder bolt that secures the bellcrank assembly to the carb (it assumes you already have one I guess). So you will need to purchase one- we got ours at a local mower shop and on Ebay.
2. The kit does NOT come with the short Briggs linkage/rod that connects from the bellcrank to the throttle plate. Again, you will either have to make one or purchase it separately.
3. You cannot use these kits with the governor linkage connected- it MUST be removed.
I thought members would like to know this ahead of time....
Michael
 
wildman

wildman

#11
#11
Ok here's my solution…



I got a small clevis from Rieken’s (p/n KMTCR), which I believe is a part from the kit pictured above by buckeye. I installed the cotter pin supplied with the clevis in the throttle lever from behind the lever, pointing out. This required bending the lever up a little, then back down after the pin was in since there's not much clearance behind the lever. Then I installed the clevis on the cotter pin against the lever and cinched the pin. I then inserted the throttle cable and adjusted, then tightened the set screw. Now I used the bracket and spring from the B/S kit 692316. I had to modify the bracket slightly and then attached the spring between the bracket and the clevis around the cotter pin. So far, works great.
 
C

chazdaddy

New Member
#13
#13
I have a 5hp flathead that still has the governor installed.

I haven't connected it yet, but plan to use the top throttle connection, like the kit from out2win. The pivot arm with that kit appears to have a link for connecting to the governor arm (the small straight arm that points down after it is properly mounted to the carb).

If you use a soft enough spring between the throttle cable and clevis connecting to the long upright pivot arm with 2 holes, and the short pivot arm is connected to the governor with a stiff wire, then the governor will be connected and should control maximum rpms. :shrug:

I haven't done it yet and may not work. If I am able to get it installed and connected to the governor, I will report back with pics. Otherwise, I will just use the top mount throttle linkage and bypass the governor.
 
Harquebus

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#17
#17
A belated thank you for this useful thread, Wildman. It is continuing to pay dividends. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I have the same under tank setup with the radial, as you call it, throttle setup but it is on my newly acquired 1969 Briggs 4HP, 100232 series--I was beginning to think it was specific only to engines smaller than the 5.

Anyway, the radial, swinging-arc throttle arm doesn't make sense with a linear push pull cable setup. Haplessly designed or marginal at best compared to the later straight throttle slider on the later 1980s-1990s+ "Fun Power" Briggs engines. But the real issue is this setup has no optimal provision for a vehicle/go kart/mini bike throttle. :censure:

As you can see on my 4 horse, the previous owner spared no expense with this high tech throttle configuration...:laugh:
Yes, that is a simple overhand knot connecting the throttle cable to the throttle arm.

IMG_0017.JPG IMG_0018.JPG IMG_0024.JPG

Also that diagram is the only illustration I could find on this style of throttle/governor linkage.
 
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